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And the one for the PCM is the harder one to reach. It's the one on the driver's side.

I had to replace my oil pressure switch last week, on a 4.0. In addition to erratic readings, it was also leaking oil through the connector plug. I'd take a look and see if your switch is leaking oil, but regardless I'd replace it. They aren't screwed in very tightly and shouldn't be hard...

I agree with TestPoint, it seems a little low. I don't think it's the pump's fault, but probably a split hose upstream from the pump that's releasing fuel (and pressure) back into the tank. It might also be a partially clogged fuel filter...

I agree with Koda and Sonic in that it's probably worn brushes in the fuel pump causing the no-start. Same thing happened to me with a Ranger. It was hard to get the pump to start but once running would run fine until shut off. I cut into the old pump and found the brushes had worn grooves...

Here's a tip that might save some grief: When reinstalling the injectors, install them all in the fuel rail first, then fit the assembly into the lower intake manifold. This is much easier than trying to fit the fuel rail onto the injectors (if fitted into the lower manifold first). Be...

Your hi-temp copper will work just fine. Apparently some of the earlier copper anti-seize was rated for lower temps, and that's what causes confusion.

The EGR valve is normally closed with no vacuum applied, so you can do what you described without harm. It might trigger an EGR related code, but that's easily resolved.

That's a good post by 2000StreetRod on the flare cure, with excellent pics. I did basically the same to cure mine, with the addition of a Superior Shift Kit. I threw everything at it; the revised separator plate, new EPC, Superior kit, new solenoid bracket, and 'D'-ring for the reverse...

I'm the biggest pack rat ever, so I found the empty box for the sep plate with the old one still in it. The number on it is: 1L5Z-7Z490-GA. I don't remember what I paid for it, but thought it was a reasonable price. Might have been 20-30 bucks but that was several years ago.

You have to get the separator plate with the gaskets bonded to it as one unit. They weren't very expensive when I last bought one, but it's been several years ago.

Brainstorm You might be able to add your old individual springs to the monoleaf to make an acceptable custom pack.

The Sport's monoleaf springs need a set of spacers (3 I think), to compensate for the missing leafs of the 4-door spring pack. Without the spacers, the truck will sit very low. I don't think you'll be satisfied with the monos, I'd get the 4-door pack....

I did this job last year. Not particularly difficult, but there are a couple tips. As was stated, lube the o-rings with a light grease to make them easier to seat. Also, install the injectors in the fuel rail first, and then press the rail into place. I found the engine to run much...

I examined mine tonight, and I think what you're referring to as a 'harness ground plate' is actually the metal base of the RFI capacitor. The wire from it runs through a plug-in disconnect and then to the main electrical plug to the coil pack. If so, then it doesn't matter which bolt it...

It does indeed look like #2 (the rearward bolt) is the one that's grounded to the manifold. I've had my coils off but can't remember how they were oriented. It's possible that a previous owner reversed the metal plate on yours. If I have time tomorrow I'll remove a coil and report back...

As extra insurance, you can run another 'jam' nut on to back up the nyloc nut. (I do this on all exhaust bolts/nuts.) Lots of flexing on these SB links so a nut could easily work loose.

On your 2000, the plastic mount has a metal strap that surrounds the coil pack and grounds through one of the mounting bolts. The coil itself dosen't need to be grounded to operate, but I suspect the metal strap is there to dissipate the magnetic field that's formed when the coil fires.

The IAC idle voltage should be under 1v; typically it's about .97v. Your scanner should be able to check it, or you can check at the connector. The brake booster check valve is the small black unit that's pressed into the booster. It has a vacuum hose running to the intake manifold...

Tinkering, have you checked the TPS voltage when the throttle is closed at idle? One thing that hasn't been mentioned is the check valve for the brake booster. If it's sticking intermittantly, that might cause the surging... However, since the IAC restrictor you installed once before...

There may be subframe parts you can screw the heat shield back onto. If not, yes you can run metal screws into the floorboard. Just be sure they don't come up in an area where they can poke or scratch someone. I did this once to add an extra muffler hanger.

Good advice on changing the fuel filter as a first step. If no codes, and no joy from a new filter, I'd suspect the fuel pump itself being bad. My 04 Ranger had a bad pump at only 60K miles, and after taking it apart found the brushes had worn into the commutator. This seems to be common...

That is indeed the correct flow, with the hottest ATF flowing into the top of the radiator cooler. Are you placing the Magnefine there for easy filter changes?

The 99-up injector part no. is CM-4895 or F87Z-9F593-HA and they are indeed light gray in color (Motorcraft). So if the parts counter person gave you this one, it's wrong for your 98. I too had a P0303 code recently, and it turned out to be a faulty injector. After replacing all 6, Exp...

I had considered installing a Magnefine on the top radiator line in front of the A/C compressor. That's the most accessable placement, and would make changing it very easy. I'd also considered a spin-on filter kit, but haven't done either one yet...

This might be too late for Mals, but may help someone else. When driving out this bolt, you need to place something heavy on the other side such as a body dolly or sledgehammer head. Give the bolt head a whack or two to help break it loose, then move to the other side. If your hammer and...

I suspect it's either TPS or MAF sensor related, although both should trigger a fault code. Do you have any pending codes? The TPS is easy to test with a multimeter; the procedure is on this forum somewhere. Try unplugging/replugging it first; might be something as simple as a corroded...

Good job, and thanks for posting your fix. That was also a good idea to replace the EPC solenoid. I can't believe it's been over 10 years since the original postings. Time does indeed fly....

Nice Sport! The support plate is probably better than any you'd be able to find. I'd unbolt it, treat it with rust removal solution, and paint it.

The wheelbase is indeed relevant in regards to the complete pump assembly itself. I suspect it has to do with the length of the fuel line, vapor, and/or electrical connectors on the assembly (short vs long frame). There could also be a difference in the pick-up filter, tank depth, etc. I do...

It's impossible to find that specific hose, but a piece of generic vapor hose works fine. I believe it's 5/16", although it might be 3/8". (That's the hose that turns your hand black when handling it...)

On your 2002, the sensor will be the upstream sensor on the driver's side. It should be located on the header pipe underneath the driver's side header. You may have to remove the rubber fenderwell to access it, or it might be easier to reach it from underneath the vehicle...

I suspect the trouble is in the B2S1 circuit or the sensor itself. It seems to be sticking in the rich (high voltage) area and the PCM is leaning that bank and causing the misfires. Since it's raining when the trouble shows, the high humidity might be causing more water vapor in the...

The extreme switch position will turn off the interior lighting (with the door open). It's a helpful feature during night stealth operations...

That's classic symptoms of a failing fuel pump. I had the same with an 04 Ranger, and after replacing the pump, cut it apart to find the pump brushes had worn the commutator drastically. The truck only had 60K miles on it at the time. I believe the pumps of these model years had defective...

The expansion tank can be completely empty and the radiator can still be nearly full. You can remove the radiator cap to observe the coolant level. If it's within a couple inches of the top, it should be OK with no overheating. Add coolant directly to the radiator, and then fill the...

If you determine the miss is not from the wire or plug, then suspect the fuel injector. Make sure the injector wiring connector is tight and clean.

Unintended accelleration. This happened to me a while back, with an 04 Ranger. I've also read several posts about it, with other Fords. I suspect it's something to do with the cruise control; possibly associated with the BOO switch located on the master cylinder.

On the 'angled' bolt, I used a wobble extension with a deepwell socket. A universal might have been needed too, don't remember, but the wobble was definitely needed. Came off easily enough with a 24" pull handle.

You didn't mention if the engine is an OHV or SOHC? I've had good results with FelPro for intake gaskets on an OHV engine. I've also used Victor Reinz for valve cover gaskets. You may be confusing the cork material with that used on valve cover gaskets. FelPro makes both cork and...

If it still won't start, clean the negative cable connection at the block. This is often overlooked, and tends to corrode.