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as long as my truck is still alive and gas isn't 20 bucks a gallon I will be there. I am not super far from there, for sure will be there Sunday but saturday also if I don't have to work. maybe I toss a few mods on this thing in the meantime, I would be willing to drive it on any trail, it...

when you pull the switch out you will see several wires connected to it. you need a wire diagram to know which is the dash lights and what is the tail lights and I am guessing its going to read 0v. electrical diagnosis isn't easy on a computer, have you started taking things apart or looking...

remove tires, remove drums, pull the diff cover, pull the bolt that holds in the center pin, push in your axles as far as you can c-clips will fall out or you may have to flip them out with a pick or a small screwdriver and remove axles. remove seals on end of housing tube install new ones...

do you have fuel? do you have spark?

i had a 93 mercury grand marquis at my shop the other day with the same problem it was the headlight switch. the thing you pull on to turn on your lights. you have to either just try that part and hope it fixes it or find some wiring diagrams and use a multimeter to see if you are getting power...

we can just reschedule perhaps a fall run. I have some stuff I would like to fix on my truck anyways.

installing new gears isn't too bad, its a bit time consuming the first 1 or 2. people saying 175 for labor, man thats cheap I think we usually charge like 5-6 hours (80 bux an hour) for a dana or a corporate heep axle

I got your email and just emailed you back

I have been wanting to go for a long time. I got an old school 91 explorer sport on 31s. I am in Indiana so would I just meet you all there? what time about? send an email or something with the info I need time and place to meet, cell number(s), etc. :thumbsup: my email is fasta4@hotmail.com...

should have had them show you the play on the dial indicator at the shop of the ball joints. there is a spec and you have the right to have them show you their testing and reading if you do not believe it

a lot of places now a days only do the plugs. when you see the coupon like 39.99 or something like that its just plugs, everything else is extra.

low 29.99 shipping? is that a joke, I never had mine off but I am guessing its just urethane not too heavy

you can unplug the IAT and it would run, he claims fuel, spark and air, really that could only be an input sensor telling it not to fire the injectors, broken timing chain, or CKP off the top of my head to test the CKP from Autozone.com same as alldata kinda hard to test if it isn't...

the first gens seem to get some bad gas mileage in the winter, I don't know if its cause they run cool, maybe the EEC IV computer sucks in the winter? I dunno, but mine drops like a rock when it gets cold, and the colder it is, the worse the mileage everything is up to par spec wise too

look at the TCC sounds like that may be your ticket

you gotta find out whats its missing from, fuel or spark first then replace parts accordingly. you need an ignition tester to test the plugs/wires and an injector pulser/noid lights to test the injectors. injectors could be real dirty, intake could be carboned up real bad, plugs and/or wires...

the seafoam to clean out the carbon in the intake upper and lower you feed into the vacuum line. it will not harm the ford injectors, some injectors, yes it will, they typically have a sticker on the TB that says caution blah blah about the injectors. its worth a shot. its under 5 bucks where I...

FWIW, when I lived out that way I had good luck with Antioch Muffler and Brake as well also Smith Automotive & Fleet Svc (847) 973-1650 did me well also, no job too big, they did the TH400 swap in my 1998 Camaro SS, Troy is the owner Lamont Automotive in lake villa, illinois is good too

I was thinking a little more about this, but a defective crank shaft position sensor (CKP) will also make it not start with fuel, ignition and base engine ok so I would look at the TPS, easy to read with key on engine off and then if thats not it, I would put a new CKP on see if that works

unplug your IAC to see if it starts with out it. then try unplugging other stuff 1 thing at a time, it could be your TPS. what does it read KOEO? 4.8 or 5 volts or something, if so then its telling the PCM that its at WOT aka clear flood mode and won't start, seen it happen before on a different...

if you run your vehicle close to E alot 1/8 tank or less you will need fuel filters a lot more often. the lower you get the more junk you are picking up that settles to the bottom of the tank also if you make habit of this in the summer, fuel pumps die a lot sooner

yeah they have a great marketing reason for scanning your codes for free too. think about it. you go in, they scan your truck and see 3 codes, say O2, TPS and IAC well we have all three of those back in the store, will you buy them? of course, you think you are fixing the truck. well what...

charge you by the hour, a lot of shops will not touch it though for liability reasons, most "performance" shops will do it perhaps at a higher price than your standard repair shops

go to napa and get a stethescope to check where its REALLY coming from. could be the rear bearing on the alternator. pretty common to make noise. could be any of the pullies. I have even seen belts make noise although they look fine, no cracks, glaze, etc.

where can you get them for 70 bucks? do they have black?

I would not mess with it. Lean is clean, if you have emissions testing your readings will go up, richer is worse for a car, foul plugs, kill the cat(s), kill the O2, etc

I went from about 19 to 13 here with the cold weather change, same driving habits, gas mileage parts replaced to rule that out. I dunno here either, if it doesn't get back to 18-19 in the warm weather in spring then I see a problem, maybe they just run poor fuel mileage in the winter? I don't...

the hard starting when cold is typically the check valve in the fuel pump, when it fails it allows the fuel to drain out of the rail and high pressure line so the fuel has to go from the tank again after sitting a while to get to the injectors. you have to replace the pump to fix that, or just...

you would have to have a huge leak to have air bubbles in your line all the time and you would know it cause fuel would be all over where ever it was leaking, they leave immediately as soon as you start the vehicle if you have opened it for service cause EFI under high pressure that was a...

have you used a noid light on your injector harnesses to make sure they are pulsing? you mentioned ebay injectors, how do you know they are good? 1 could be bad intermittantly there is also a fuel injector tester that OTC makes that fires the injectors bypassing the computer to make sure...

you probably want to get new brushes, and rear housing bearing while you have it open to replace those too. don't forget to clock it in the right position when you put it back together ;)

acceptable voltage readout from your charging system is 13.6-15.2 volts. I don't understand your "ammeter" question. Ammeters read amps, not volts. amps would vary depending on if you were at idle or 2000+ RPMs and what load you are presenting on the vehicle. your Internal Voltage Regulator...

I had wild countrys last winter and they were fine, we got a lot of snow for the indy area. This year I have the BFG AT KOs but haven't got any snow to even see if they work. seem to work fine on the patches of ice I drive on in my neighborhood or parking lots though. I would try the Revos...

they should check your fuel pressure, inspect and load test your battery, check starter and charging systems, those 3 can be done in like 5-10 mins on a Vat 40 or better tops. Scan your O2s for correct operation. you should have them check the resistance in your wires before just getting new...

check the switch with a multimeter to see if its still good. that will tell you what part to buy. typically if the blower works at all its the electrical part the switch which has resistors on it, they have to be crimped on and not soldered. its easier to get a new switch if thats your problem

I would go to your nearest autozone and have them use their scanner if they have one to monitor your O2 sensor. they also have loaner vacuum gauges, although I don't think its vacuum. I would look at the O2. you can test it with a multimeter as well but a scanner is easier and less risky than...

if its just brushes or bearings then just get those parts and replace it. to rebuild it you have to obviously take it apart and figure out whats wrong. if its a wire or more on the stator you are better off putting it back together and getting a reman unit. if you know how to diagnose the...

most local "Rent-All" type places have car haulers. They don't care what you drove there as long as they get the $

believe me if I was close enough I would :cool:

is this with a T-tec like flush and replace set up or are they just dropping the pan, pulling the filter, putting new filter on, bolting pan back up and filling the fluid back up as needed? $145 is high for the 2nd one I mentioned. a flush system like the t-tec many places have now, I...