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Advance does seem to stock practically every 1/2" length in the Dayco belts, at least in common size ranges (may vary by store location). Here's an 82.5", 83", 83.5" (use #s 5060 then last 3 digits are length): CARQUEST by Dayco Poly Rib Belt 5060825: Advance Auto Parts Advance Auto Parts -...

In case they weren't making it clear, if the bearing goes and the belt goes and the accessories stop spinning, you have a few minutes of driving before your battery is drained and you're stranded, or a few more till it overheated... and no power steering. :burnout:

A compressor clutch bearing is only $17 on Rockauto, though I don't know how much trouble it is to press out. Then again you can get a whole aftermarket clutch for $48.

I took my '98 out tonight and paid a little more attention than usual. I usually accelerate closer to 2K5 to 3K2 RPM, would have to feel like I needed to get going for a reason to push much past 3K.

Have you yet taken an existing mirror off to see if the wiring harness for it has the power leads, compatible connector for the new mirrors? That is what I would do, passenger side if you need to keep driving it till you figure it all out - BUT check your state laws just in case, in many it is...

Not true at all. They can supply every bit of tech info (but they don't) and it still won't make a $600 steering rack or tranny that doesn't even have a dipstick or full tube any easier, nor a water pump that requires pulling the engine, timing chains, etc. It's not even true for the tech...

Heh, for $125 they should have replaced the idler pulley as a courtesy considering your total bill and they were doing the belt anyway (required for belt to have good life!), but either way should have ran it and noticed that. I'd not take it back to this shop. Your trust is misplaced if...

Take internet info with a grain of salt, supposed tech sites (not just automotive) that try to give dumbed down answers instead of technical data, particularly on the internet where anyone can author anything and (extra-) especially if there is no author attribution or reader feedback allowed...

^ If anything vehicles are becoming less and less DIY repair friendly.

Who is taking off at only 1500 RPM unless they want to go slow? I mean past a fraction of a second, mine is only in 1K-2K range when not accelerating because the SOHC does like to rev high. I usually accelerate in the 3K-3K5 range tho' you have the higher 4.10 diff vs my 3.73 which helps your...

You could drill a little hole at your best-guess-centered location, and feed a (cheap USB from eBay) borescope down the hole to get some orientation for the cuts.

Then I would get the same bulbs that those others did. If it's a different LED setup then you can't be assured of the same brightness or beam spread. That it's LED or not, means less than the size/number/mounting angles.

^ Suit yourself, but how can you like how they'd look in your vehicle when you don't have them and don't even know which to get? That doesn't make sense? :dunno:

Why do you "need" LEDs? It's 22 y/o, I could see it if there were much of a chance they would fail again before *most* people retire the vehicle but that whole marketing angle of LEDs using less power is insignificant in this app, we're only talking a tiny difference in total vehicle power...

^ maybe, but Seems like most people had reported the timing chain rattle on cold startup, idling.

It might be a lot cheaper on Rock Auto... if you have to order and wait for it anyway. Then again I could be wrong, some of Advance Auto's coupon codes bring prices down and RA has the shipping charge.

Here is a table that shows some Ford/Lincoln/Mercury PATS info through '07: http://www.fordservicecontent.com/ford_content/catalog/motorcraft/pats_job_aid_2009.pdf

An '01 Sport with a build date of 7/24/00 or later has the newer version of PATS with the starter interrupt. When you wrote that the theft light blinks, if you mean it blinks after a few seconds of turning the key on, yes that could indicate a problem while it should always slowly blink with no...

Maybe just a loose heat shield on the exhaust is rattling? I had to secure mine by tying it down with wire around a decade ago on my '98. Plain old 14ga solid core copper wire has lasted at least as long as the factory heat shield welds did. Then again my concern about catching brush on fire...

Get a fuel pressure gauge, put it on the fuel rail valve. Turn ignition key one click and see what the PSI reading is. Try to start the vehicle and see what the PSI reading is roughly running. No need to see if fuel comes out with the filter off. A simple test without a pressure reading can...

The bill was a little high. Some places will sell shocks $50 ea installed for a set of 4. It's 1/2 hour (rounded up) labor and unless exotic Bilstein/Rancho/etc, under $40 ea., maybe under $20 ea. shock. I could see them claiming an hour labor but it shouldn't take that long unless they put...

If you don't see an abnormal wear pattern on the brake pads or rotors, I'd guess the hub (or did you press out the bearing alone to replace it?) is defective or improperly torqued so it wore out rapidly. Happening with each rev of the wheel, it seems like it would have to be either one of...

First I'd pull the wheels and do an inspection. Unfortunately it seems to happen when it's hot... not the ideal time to be messing with the brake/hub area. Does it seem like it's coming from the right side or whichever side has the new hub? I'm wondering if the brakes are dragging or the...

^ Raw fuel exiting the engine and burning down the exhaust can cause the cat honeycomb to disintegrate and clog it, if it's even clogged vs just getting red hot. Oil or coolant could, but I hope oil and coolant levels were checked and it would be mentioned if they were being consumed.

^ All the same bank. Were those misfire codes set before or after replacing the CAT and oxygen sensor? Clogged CAT or bad sensor cause cause that, or result from it. If you have a stuck open injector it could cause the whole bank to misfire. You could get a set of new lower o-rings and swap...

Oh, sport. I just didn't see how the 4x4 fuse would cause this, though let's wait and see if it continues to run well after the fuse swap. It'll be great if that's all it took.

Pulling the plugs was to try to get a visual indication if any are misfiring. Default guess would be you have vac leak and lean condition causing a misfire, but do check that the plug wiring is on the correct cylinders and snapped on good, all are firing, and your fuel pressure is good. If...

^ I'm seeing pwr dist box fuse 13 is 15A Heated Oxygen Sensor, EGR Vacuum Regulator, EVR Solenoid, Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor, Canister Vent Solenoid Question is, why did it blow? Maybe an intermittent short in the wiring somewhere...

Hook up an OBDII code scanner, check for codes, and preferably one that can show live data. See if there's any abnormalities. Pull the spark plugs and check the condition of each. You might have a misfire sending unburnt fuel out the exhaust. Try not to drive (run) it much or you may toast...

^ You might pull the module out and examine it, might just need the contacts cleaned or have a solder joint crack, especially near where the larger resistor is in the corner.

Get a base assembly from a junkyard. They can't be very expensive. My local u-pull-n-save junkyard lists a manual antenna at $2.99, though I'd assume that's the mast but it gives you an idea that they don't want much for parts like this. An entire power antenna is $12.99. IIRC the...

That's a downgrade for fog lights. You want an orange hue, even more orange than stock for best vision, going towards the blue end of the spectrum will mostly throw out a blinding (you) wall of illuminated fog more than piercing it. Additionally if you didn't re-aim your headlights more to the...

Wedgewood blue is metallic and will be very hard to match with a touch up paint. Getting that metallic sheen right is probably beyond DIY from spray cans even if you did the entire vehicle. If you want to DIY paint it all then I would go with a non-metallic color. You were lucky to get what...

You might want to pull the headliner and see what the inside looks like. It might have a leak and/or need some sanding and (could be brush on, this is all hidden later by the headliner) thick rusty metal primer there.

^ Aren't they the door ajar/interior-light/etc sense switches?

^ Or just screw/bit driver, assuming it's not spot welded together.

The best course would have been to post this in the 1st generation forum. Apparently there is a two pin connector in the left rear quarter panel behind the interior trim panel that you short while the key is in the accessory position, then press the fob button. More info here: Keyless Entry FOB

My originals lasted almost 7 years. 1st replacement from Autozone lasted 2.5 MONTHS, 2nd replacement ~ 3 years, 3rd replacement almost 2 years, 4th replacement 3 years, and probably a 5th between then and now considering the timing. Pretty sad but at least they only take a couple minutes to...

There's probably a solenoid/spring/latch contraption that you can manually activate once the faceplate is off, but it might be easier to just give it power, or is it broken?

No idea so I'd check local junkyards, maybe refinish and engine enamel paint a used one if it had rust.