How to: 1st Gen Gas Tank Fuel Pump Access Panel

[catdaddy]

I got real bold with t the angle grinder.

 

[J_C]

You could drill a little hole at your best-guess-centered location, and feed a (cheap USB from eBay) borescope down the hole to get some orientation for the cuts.

 

[skoville]

It's really hard to believe "They" haven't made an access door by now standard equip by now.

 

[J_C]

^ If anything vehicles are becoming less and less DIY repair friendly.

 

[catdaddy]

^ If anything vehicles are becoming less and less DIY repair friendly.

As long as they keep most of the tech open source the average DYI dude can keep up.

 

[J_C]

As long as they keep most of the tech open source the average DYI dude can keep up.

Not true at all. They can supply every bit of tech info (but they don't) and it still won't make a $600 steering rack or tranny that doesn't even have a dipstick or full tube any easier, nor a water pump that requires pulling the engine, timing chains, etc.

It's not even true for the tech items. How many DIYer's, if given the schematic for a dash or center console LCD module, are going to be able to read it, whip out their hot air desoldering station and repair it? If not repair, then pay $1000 to replace. Not repair friendly.

There is practically nothing that open sourcing does to benefit the DIY repairer, and there is no "keep", the electronics schematics were never open source. Open source firmware means absolutely nothing. That doesn't "break". Programming a chip does not require source code... not that many if any repairs require it.

 

[jimbalaya]

my fuel pump finally died. I read the entire 7 pages of this thread about creating an access hole for fuel pump removal, and was excited about replacing the pump without having to drop the gas tank. However, I want to let everyone know that for my 97 xlt 4-dr 2wd sohc, after i cut the access hole i discovered it was impossible to remove the fuel pump, due to the pump being behind the framing support 'beam' that runs across the back seats, which i did not want to cut into - see 1st photo below.

So, i lowered the gas tank about 6-8 inches [after siphoning out more than 1/2 tank of gas], while supported by two floor jacks, to get enough clearance to remove the old fuel pump and install the new one - see 2nd photo below.

 

[acschilling]

Not true at all. They can supply every bit of tech info (but they don't) and it still won't make a $600 steering rack or tranny that doesn't even have a dipstick or full tube any easier, nor a water pump that requires pulling the engine, timing chains, etc.

It's not even true for the tech items. How many DIYer's, if given the schematic for a dash or center console LCD module, are going to be able to read it, whip out their hot air desoldering station and repair it? If not repair, then pay $1000 to replace. Not repair friendly.

There is practically nothing that open sourcing does to benefit the DIY repairer, and there is no "keep", the electronics schematics were never open source. Open source firmware means absolutely nothing. That doesn't "break". Programming a chip does not require source code... not that many if any repairs require it.

Exactly why I refuse to buy a new car.

 

[catdaddy]

new tech cost money. planned obsolescence. blah, blah blah. your gonna spend your doe. most of it is plug and play. tech gets hacked, thats why this media exists.

 

[Bwana Bob]

Fuel leak! I have a 1st gen, 1992. I was planning to do the access panel mod, but having second thoughts after reading all of the caution statements. The problem is that I have a fuel leak somewhere on top of the tank. I can smell fuel vapor and if the tank is topped off fuel will pour out on the ground! The problem is that I don't know if the leak is where the fuel pump mounts (might be rusted out) or where the fuel filler vent line connects.

If dropping the tank is the only safe option, then she'll have to go to the shop. NJ uses a lot of road salt, the skid plate bolts are rusted and the tank straps and bolts are probably rusted out too. I think dropping the tank is beyond my capability to do alone and my old gearhead buddy moved back to L.I.

Any advice? She's got 254,000 mile, is rusting badly, but I love the old truck and am trying to keep 'er going at least until the new Ranger or Bronco comes out.Thanks!

Bwana Bob

 

[J_C]

Fuel leak! I have a 1st gen, 1992. I was planning to do the access panel mod, but having second thoughts after reading all of the caution statements. The problem is that I have a fuel leak somewhere on top of the tank. I can smell fuel vapor and if the tank is topped off fuel will pour out on the ground! The problem is that I don't know if the leak is where the fuel pump mounts (might be rusted out) or where the fuel filler vent line connects.

Bwana Bob

The access panel mod is mainly to swap the fuel pump and/or sending unit it sits in. It does not seem like a worthwhile pursuit to cut an access panel to seek the source of a leak, before even considering safety factors that are definitely present if you have fuel fumes leaking out.

I didn't have any problem getting my skid plate bolts off (which I did for running a brake line not a tank repair), but the straps, sometimes you need to cut them and get new ones.

 

[Bwana Bob]

Thanks, JC, much appreciated!

Bob

 

[Bwana Bob]

Well, my XLT is in the shop. Mechanic will look at it tomorrow. He use going to use a camera on a snake to look at the top of the tank without removing it. My fear is that the fuel pump mounting flange is rusted out. I believe it is a plastic tank. Mechanic says the flange is molded into the tank, so if it's rusted out the tank has to be replaced. He says big bucks. I looked all over the internet and couldn't even find a new tank for a 92, so we may be looking at end-of-life.

Anyone know of a fix?

Bob

 

[J_C]

Bob I'm not aware of what it would cost to have someone do it, nor do I know all the tank shapes out there, but "someone" should be able to fit a different tank on, even if it takes changing the filler tube and gas lines, or removing the spare tire so a universal rear tank fits there.

Then again considering the age and probably amount of rust elsewhere if the tank is gone, yes it could be end of life.

-OR- There's this used one described as excellent condition:
Ford EXPLORER 1994 Fuel Tank

-OR- You could use some parts finder database to see if there are any tanks in southern states junkyards where rust is less likely.

 

[Bwana Bob]

Thanks, JC, The Holley "universal tank" is $657, plus it would require custom fitting, of course. I've checked all of the usual on-line parts suppliers and nobody has a 1st gen tank. There are a couple of more places I can try. Yes, there is rust everywhere and considering it's 26 years old with 254,000 miles on it, there's no telling what will fail next. The only parts I'm sure of at this point are the alternator (replaced at 200,000 miles), starter motor (repaired by me a few of years ago), clutch and slave cylinder (replaced 4 years ago). The rest is anybody's guess...

Bob

 

[J_C]

Bob you can get tanks a lot cheaper than that Holley and some might even fit better.

Universal Fuel Tank | eBay

Did you see my prior link for the used '94 tank?

Then again, as you wrote there's no telling what will fail next. Could be more long term cost effective to get something newer with fewer miles and less rust.

 

[Project91Jp]

Old thread but has anyone done this with an oscillating tool?

 

[J_C]

Old thread but has anyone done this with an oscillating tool?

I suppose you could, but it's a bit rough trying to use one on sheetmetal. I'd much prefer to use an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel, or a recip saw with a fine toothed carbide blade... making sure the blade and/or cut angle isn't deep enough to hit anything under the sheetmetal.

 

[Motorhogman]

I cut mine with a muffler gun using a sheet metal bit. I wet it first to ensure no sparks. It cut like peanut butter.

 

[Turdle]

Drill corner holes, then connect the dots with cuts leaving rounded corners. Air shears will do all but the rear doubled area.