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Welcome to the forum! Considering that I don't see an obvious connection between these symptoms, my best guess would be that you ran over some road debris and it has caused damage to the right front, wheel hub or bearing (or other suspension) and brake line. I wouldn't trust it to drive...

If the 5V signal isn't staying on, then I would suspect a leaky transistor in the amp. Is the sound system fully operational on all speaker outputs and sub?

If it's not getting the camshaft signal, it should generate code P0340 or P0345. If it were the older design that was 3 wire, you would need a power feed because it's a hall sensor that works like a switch to switch that input power to make a signal, but instead you have a 2 wire which is...

Okay I have edited my last post and then after seeing your most recent, and looking at a '99 wiring diagram, it shows dark blue/orange-stripe, and gray/red-stripe. I must assume the colors just changed a little from '99 to '01. The gray/red is supposed to be a ground shared with other...

It's a multiple hours job AFAIK, so I'd guess depending on labor rates in your area, $1K or more. Since the leak is slow, have you tried high mileage oil with the "seal conditioners" (aka seal sweller additive), something like Valvoline Maxlife ? It will take a while to work, and you may...

Are you going to be hauling loads? If not, the stock brakes were designed to handle that and you don't really need an upgrade per se, just to have them in good working order. I've ran Autozone Duralast Gold Ceramic for years. Buy once then lifetime replacement warranty including wear, but...

Welcome to the forum! Do you have specific reason to suspect this sensor? Did you remove the connector or damage the wire or get an OBD2 code for that sensor? If not, I would also check the vac lines, and if you haven't hooked up a scan tool to pull codes, I'd do that and better still a scan...

Rubber will rot slower if you put a very thin coat of silicone grease on it, after washing away the top oxidized layer, but don't let any get on the windshield including transfer when washing it later. If you use too much grease it will become a dust magnet.

You mean sulfated as in corrosion on the battery clamps and/or where the wires are fastened into them? I don't think there is anywhere else on the vehicle that can get sulfated cables, unless you drive through sulfur mining country or are using the vehicle as a mobile fireworks launch station...

If it were the MAF sensor, you should see that as out of bounds long term fuel trim on a scan tool capable of live data, same as if you had a plenum or other (umetered) vac leak. Certainly it would be good to have a scan tool providing data when it does the low idle and stall. I'd also look at...

Is there any chance that this only happens when the vehicle wants to cycle the A/C compressor on? I mean it could drop, then the A/C compressor is not on because the RPM drop was sensed so the compressor was disengaged? There is a TSB # TSB 15-0149 (PDF attached below) which only applies to...

I feel like I'm asking a question where there's a black hole, where we won't really know until someone discovers differences or a workshop manual is exactly the same for both, but how are you certain they are "exactly" the same? Often there aren't any marketed differences between model years...

Could be that all the radios he has done were the base radio... IDK, I used to think I had the base radio in my '98 till I discovered the amp in the rear quarter panel (and no subwoofer). Guess not, was some kind of upgrade on the XLT package, otherwise just a single slot CD player head unit.

Get the 2nd gen wiring diagrams linked below in my sig. They include at least 4 different radio options, possibly more including the separate Helms diagrams (separate download link in same forum post).

Just an FYI, on the list, 2002-2005 Ford Explorers Click here for lift option #2 is a dead link now.

I don't see the point in a lift and 33" tires for a 4x2, but that's just me. The 4x2 will have a lighter front end, get slightly better gas mileage (but don't get your hopes up, these are old school bricks on wheels, big wheels if you get 33's), and slightly less maintenance due to no front...

I could be wrong but don't the manuals generally include info for every possible option, a single edition for that model year, even if the vehicle doesn't have that option?

^ Look around on forscan's forum, there may be someone who has posted a tutorial, or there might be one on youtube.

On some Ford connectors, there is a different color insert in the connector and you might be able to remove that, pull the pins out, and reuse the connector. YMMV. However if the wires are intact besides the insulation, first I would wonder if the whole wire is bad, why that insulation is...

^ Okay, I did not understand when you wrote "and I get no complaints when the lightbar is off.". I thought you meant turned off, not taken off the vehicle. Otherwise I would have assumed just wind noise. It does make sense to try moving it before replacing it, but it may still help to have a...

Hmm, makes me wonder if it could be improved to even better cool the PTU!

Torque on something like that is not super-critical, just tighten to what feels right for the fastener size, then check it again in ~100 miles considering that is so easy to do in this case.

If I understand correctly, you get noise when accelerating/moving, but only if your light bar is turned on? If so, since you are in the US, it is almost certain that it is illegal to have the light bar on, on public roads, if it casts any significant light, more so than just accent/trim...

You can google search for a document named "PATS Job Aid PDF" and find THIS, and it will show info for the various PATS versions, though your '04 has type E.

Yes if it wasn't bad before, it or wiring behind may be bad now. I hope you are replacing these blown fuses with major brand replacements, as it has often been discovered that generic chinese fuses do not blow at their rated current.

I thought you were showing me a picture of the space? If necessary, I'd not just replace the flexible segment but instead, from where you see the line in the pic, all the way up to the ABS module, or is the line more convoluted in path than just straight up to the ABS module? If space is tight...

Am I wrong in thinking that keyless entry came along with the number pad on the door, so if you have the number pad, should have keyless entry hardware or vice-versa, no number pad means lacks the keyless entry hardware?

Oh, I missed where you wrote cabin fuse because I read "the 16 would start and run but the little fuse box under the hood had damage. i changed it out and it still keeps blowing the fuse as soon as the key is turned on." so I was thinking #18 in the power distribution box. #18 interior fuse...

I'd do the rest just like you did that one, using more flexible copper nickel line, but I would put 2 or 3 ~2" loops in it for strain relief. Strain relief is why the flex line segments are there, more so than ease in assembly.

I'd check system voltage when this happens, wondering if it is getting too low from corroded battery terminals or a bad ground. How is your battery doing, staying charged?

What is fuse 18 on a '16/'17 for? On my '14, it's the front blower motor, so I'd wonder if there's a problem with it, though it would seem pretty coincidental to have two vehicles which both have a blower motor problem simultaneously. Edit: Disregard that, was thinking of #18 in the...

Unless an '18 engine does something I don't understand, that does not look right. The radiator pressure valve to the tank should have been closed at the point where the engine was started, then open when the heated coolant expanded, increasing the level of coolant in the reservoir, then when...

My '98's ABS module takes double flared line.

https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/Catalog/owner_information/2014-Explorer-Owners-Manual-version-3_om_EN-US_02_2014.pdf

I don't recall the ABS fittings size, know it is larger than the fittings for other brake hard lines and probably metric. I just reused mine, although the hard lines themselves and fittings at the wheel calipers were rusting out, those fittings on the ABS module were in good shape still. Yours...

With modern engines, mystery oil is mostly used for the solvent in it, if the oil sludged up and caused a stuck lifter or something. It shouldn't hurt to put some in the oil but i doubt it will fix whatever is causing the noise. It won't have any chance of a benefit in the fuel. Does it...

I don't know if any menu choices changed, and there appears to be at least 2, or 3 different gauge screens available, so best would be to check the owner's manual which if not in your glovebox, can be found here, and see page 99 onward...

Are you the original owner, so that you know that nobody has put one of those headlight restoration kits to work on it already? I ask because many of those kits include a top coating and that can crack and need removed, is a reason I never put a hard curing coating on top after I refinish...

The person diagnosing it at that shop has no idea what they are doing. Your call whether to let them continue with that in mind. Yes, it doesn't just "boil over" as if that is an explanation. If the tank/system were overfilled then some would come out, but not when it is low it shouldn't...

On my '14 with the switch right in the middle of the center dash stack, it does not feel like a latching mechanical switch, like a momentary switch that is just a logic signal for whichever computer (aka BCM?) handles that. I wrote capacitive touch switch in that topic Peter linked, but mine...