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edit: Nevermind, I was going to suggest the ignition switch but then I forgot that the radio loses memory which that shouldn't cause, AFAIK. Radio memory is preserved with volatile memory that needs power through fuse 29, which is not listed as being used for anything else. However fuse 28 is...

I would first look at battery terminal corrosion, battery terminal clamp to wire corrosion, and battery cable ground point corrosion. Otherwise there are wiring diagrams linked in my sig below. Beyond that I would monitor charging system voltage while running and battery health (voltage) when not.

Welcome to the forum! I advocate adding info to topics so people searching for help can find that, but note that this topic is now 8 years old. :)

How often is this happening and in what weather conditions? Bulbs don't mind AC current, but they do mind a faulty alternator regulator putting too much voltage through them. Even so, I would wonder if you have a leaky headlight housing and water is getting in, then hot bulb plus a water...

All I can add is to compare the doors that work with those that don't. Something has to be different. I haven't had any other problems with the doors opening on mine, besides a spring in a couple latches, which I've mentioned in this topic but I doubt this applies to your situation - but I...

I found this with a forum search There are other search hits as well. https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/rear-door-exterior-handle-connector-broke.508046/ https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/search/4942586/?q=exterior+handle+door+open&t=post&c[child_nodes]=1&c[nodes][0]=92&o=relevance

I'll see what I have archived for the 4405... This info isn't going to be in any of the places I mentioned except #1: 1) This topic: How to: - The Borg Warner 4405 Transfer Case Rebuild Diary 2) Diagram and some part #s: https://www.automaticchoice.com/Catalogue/tb_bw_4405.pdf Wish I had...

AFAIK they should work as long as they're the heavy duty with 352mm diameter, which should also mean your rears are (not hat) regular vented instead of solid. If you're going to be driving aggressively then instead of slotted, I'd get high carbon rotors, and aggressive HD semi-metallic pads...

Generally I just go to a Ford dealer parts site and look it up there, for example (and this is for a 5.0L V8 EB, drill back to engine choice if you have the 4.0L engine): https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/v-1998-ford-explorer--eddie-bauer--5-0l-v8-gas In other cases you can go on Rock Auto...

Is it possible that the WMA files are DRM protected? If so then it may not play them, but if not then I second the suggestion to convert them. Get some freeware audio editor like Audacity, then batch convert a whole folder full of WMA files. In Audacity, go to the Tools menu and then Apply...

It's hard to believe you're drawing conclusions without even normal driving cycles. These do get poor fuel economy and it can be the sum of many parts. 1) Large, heavy vehicle 2) High ground clearance 3) Often outfitted with large, heavy wheels 4) Tires might be underinflated 5) AWD 6)...

Are you opposed to replacing the entire bushing? If not, a torch can burn up the rubber to a gooey enough charred state to pull the middle out then you can cut the side of the metal casing plus a little chisel action to remove that. There might be youtube video(s) about doing it but I don't...

NO! (lol) Format your reply into short paragraphs instead of a Big Wall Of Text. Thanks. If you have that much info to share, a video might be more concisely digested, and linked here in a post. Also, welcome to the forum! ;) I also wonder if you are a rogue AI bot. Been there, but I...

If any of it is intact to compare diameters, I'd just take that to an auto parts store, the better stores have bulk hose on a reel and will cut a piece to size.

My '98 has 15" wheels and while there wasn't a big gap, I don't remember it being nearly as small a gap as the pictures make it look. Is the new BJ stud longer than the original? That'd do it. Either way I wouldn't worry about it, if it's not touching then you should never have a cast rim flex...

You would not want a gas charged shock for this application, as it would push the axle to the side. Not much as it's a mere shock absorber, but any amount wouldn't make sense. I used one of those SC2958 on my '98 about 8 years ago. Can't say for certain whether I noticed any difference in...

Frankly for automotive work, I'd get a Cr-Mo impact socket set(s) to cover anything 15mm or larger, rather than a more brittle Cr-V chromed set, then use a cordless impact wrench or driver everywhere it fits. Back when I bought my first impact wrench, the first socket I bought was a Pittsburgh...

Lifespan depends on miles driven. They go into sleep mode when wheels aren't spinning. When I replaced them on my '14, they were working fine still at 8 years old, just replaced them because my tires were aging out so did it while the shop had the tires off, figured the originals wouldn't last...

This, but I'd drive slower on curves at high speed, where a failure and flipover is most catastrophic. I don't worry about collision protection, or else I wouldn't be driving a '98 full frame truck in the first place, decades later. I'm in the same situation with my '98, just rust not "as"...

When I clean my IAC, I prop it up on end and put a drop of light oil on the shaft at the bushing to run down into the bushing for a few hours. https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/idle-rpms-up-down.507952/post-4051253 If that doesn't help, your IAC may be too worn out to reuse. It...

Heh, at my current rate of use, my '98 will hit 333K miles around 2081. I doubt it will last that long. :)

^ That's Motorcraft's lower, "service grade" part. Factory grade Motorcraft is closer to $190. The Timken is better at that price point.

At first I was wondering why you were testing what is probably the wire pair running to the rear door, since Ford used (almost) the same wire colors to all 4 door lock actuators, then I remembered that most trim levels including XLT, probably have the keyfob remote unlock feature, so at least...

I'd wonder if the blend door actuator has hardened grease and/or oxidized contacts inside. They seem to be held together with plastic friction tabs on the sides, possibly allowing it to open without breaking them if they are warmed up, then clean the tracks and contacts and apply a light coat...

Yes both sides take the same part #.

Welcome to the forum! Do what was already suggested in this topic.

Yeah I'm thinking RAP module too. It's behind the trim in the driver's side rear quarter panel. It's not the PATS anti-theft if your keys can still start the vehicle. Edit: As 410Fortune pointed out, '96 doesn't have PATS.

So you're stating that you bought a vehicle where the headlights, tail lights, and turn signals do not work properly for public road use? If not, seems the seller might be responsible for fixing this, or otherwise, look in my sig for the normal wiring diagrams to get it back to factory non-PIU...

^ Clean it off at a self serve car wash, put some UV dye in the oil, then hit it with a UV light as soon as it starts leaking?

^ What type of flasher module? I imagine it was disconnected because it's not legal for use on public roads, besides LEO/etc purposes.

You could put masking tape around the lens and polish out the scratches. It's not supposed to match your explorer, instead be the highest contrast possible, in a color that's still legal for brake lights (red). Even if you insist on darkening it, before I went to the trouble of removing a...

In the past I've also wondered if there was a lazy way to do it. ;) Take clamp off, use a big rubber mallet or strap to pull the axle back, compress the boot, and squirt some very low viscosity grease or ~80W plus gear oil on the visible portion of the splines without taking the whole axle...

I also linked a kit, don't know if the clamp is right but you could get an aftermarket clamp if not. Supposedly the grease is special teflon grease, though if the original grease lasted 27 years, that might not be a bad result for replacement grease of the same original type. I'd be more...

I agree, could be the joke. Here's a TSB describing the lube procedure for a Ranger, should be about the same. https://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=46041&d=1258562803 It mentions special grease. Here's a kit with the grease and clamp but not specifically for an...

Understandable why you want to do it, though I would want a little coolant always circulating through the core, so sludge builds up slower. A delete accomplishes that too. IDK how well the blend door seals, could be that your A/C doesn't blow as cold with full coolant flow.

In the '96 owner's manual, page 383, fuse 19 is listed as ignition coils and PCM. However the wiring diagram also shows it connects to the radio capacitor, which it should, to put the capacitor in parallel with the ignition coil noise to shunt it to ground. I might try process of elimination...

Wiring diagram attached below

Do a small inconspicuous section first. Black RTV isn't going to quite match, nothing will match faded grainy rubber.

You could put some protectant on it like Aerospace 303, or silicone grease, but they will just slow down further damage. You could also try rubbing some black (non-acid cure, sensor-safe) RTV onto it, just trying to fill the pits in it, not a whole top coating which would probably peel and look...

Also while I'm thinking about it, I noticed on your pic of the bezel once it's off, the silver trim pieces weren't there. Are they black plastic on the back (black plastic all the way through with just silver paint/coating on top) like the silver colored plastic around the cup holders? The...