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What's the voltage at the alternator? What's the voltage at the battery?

I'm glad I read the updates to this thread. I learned how to spell "whadaya". :p

Bottom right

Yes, this kit has everything you need, but you get what you pay for. I would recommend spending more on these parts. https://a.co/d/e8UOU4y https://a.co/d/5RrN29Z You could take a chance and maybe that cheaper kit will work for you. I use my Explorer hard off-road and would go with the Mile...

I'm not sure if you are just getting numbers mixed up, but you keep referencing D44 in your posts. You don't have a D44, and the D44 hubs are not interchangeable with your D35. The spindle nut sets are interchangeable between D35 and D44. The link that 410Fortune posted in the above post will...

A Dana 44 has a completely different hub assembly. The only kit that will fit has to be for a Dana 35 off the year vehicles I posted earlier. D44 Hub WILL NOT FIT! Before you buy, post a link here so we can confirm it will fit your Explorer.

1990-1997 Ranger and 1991-1994 Explorer are the vehicles that will have the correct parts.

You want hubs like these You will also need the nut set The hubs are specific to the Ranger and Explorer Dana 35 front axles. The nuts work for the D35 and D44 axles. The hubs for the D35 slip onto the spindles. They are held in place by the tire/wheel lug nuts. I don't know how much luck...

You could get yourself a flare tool, a bender, buy the tube and make your own. Route then where you want. I've been thinking of doing that with my 94 Explorer for a long time. Haven't gotten around to it yet.

I love my Duff RA based front axle. It's smooth and stable, and flexes like crazy. It's great the kid loves camping. That's a beautiful piece of land.

Switch wiring with relay diagram

There's nothing nearly as satisfying as taking a trail rig you built on the trails.

Lucas makes good products, but I have no personal experience with their trans additives. The Lubeguard was recommended by 410Fortune's transmission guy. 410Fortune is arguably the most knowledgeable person on this forum when it comes to engine and transmission swaps. I've used it with good...

Drop the pan and filter, and let it drain for a few hours. You should get 6+ quarts out of it. Get a concrete mixing pan from Home Depot for a drain pan. Then do it again in 15,000 miles. The rubber and steel pan gasket should be reusable if its OEM and in good shape. Soft gaskets will leak...

You talking about the bushings? You can get them off eBay pretty cheap.

I don't know if a stripped doubler planetary would disable the driveline because they are in neutral when not being used, but if it blew it would ne engaged. No thanks. I think I'll stick with the NWF iBox for long term doubler plans.

I'm fairly certain I already know the answer to this question. I haven't done anything to the Explorer for a while, and don't plan on any major changes for at least a few years. This question is for long term planning. I have a 3 pinyon planetary set pulled from a NP231 I parted out years ago...

What are you planning on using it for? For a 2WD Explorer that's street use only, then lowering it as much as possible without modifying the frame would be my choice. If you are planning on making a dedicated off-road trail rig, I would sell it and start with a 4WD easier to modify year...

I had to use a punch to get the pin out of my 1994 column. It should be easy to access. Push the soft cover down to expose the hole, drive it back in with some thread locker on the end.

I like that. Not too big but would make it a lot easier to read maps. This mount was suggested and I think it would work with a little modification, if any. https://a.co/d/fkQZ2rN

Link to ruggedized tablet? I've been looking at a tablet for navigation. Maybe fab a mount or get a surplus cop car mount for the Explorer

That would be good for GPS mapping software with my older eyes.

Deaver makes good stuff, but I always thought their Explorer leafs were too soft for the weight. Anyone who builds a Explorer with some go fast shocks is going to beat on it so it's very possible they are shot.

It's possible they were overtorqued. I replaced the body mounts on my 1994 Explorer a few years ago. It made a big difference in flex, but I didn't notice any added road noise. It also has sound deadening material on the floor. My rig has been modified for off road so the tire noise overwhelms...

Retorque body mounts? What was the difference between Sport Trac and your model's mounts? Were the replacements polyurethane or rubber?

Nope. 1994 is a TTB front and he has custom leaf springs

Only a 1/2" I'd run it.

Shocks shouldn't make a difference in ride height, unless one is frozen or blown. This is how you figure this out. Check suspension components one at a time. If the sag is an inch, then that's not bad. They came out of the factory like that. Measure frame height at the leaf spring mounts...

Was the lean there before you replaced the coil springs?

The leaf springs could be worn out. The 1st Gens are heavier on the driver side because of the gas tank placement. It could also be a worn front coil spring causing the lean. Post some pictures of your Explorer.

The wheel pattern on on the new axle should be 5x5.5. The C-clip eliminator kit for the 8.8 has both the 5x4.5 and 5x5.5 pattern holes in the axle flanges. As a bonus, it's 1" wider per side, which gets the rear axle to an inch narrower than the early Bronco D44 front, which is 3" wider than...

Speedway is great if you want something fast. Most of my orders from them arrive within two days. Get back to work! :hammer:

I forgot, what size tires you running? I'm still thinking this swap would go good with my 700R4, 5.13 gears, Atlas II and 35" tires. I would probably install a doubler while I was doing the engine swap.

I think Winter is a mechanical engineer. The first Winter version worked, then version two never got finished.

I looked into sway bars a few years ago because my Explorer has an occasional sudden wiggle in the rear while high speed dirt road cornering, and lots of low speed body roll on the highway. Several people in the off road industry recommended upgrading the rear shocks first. If I was going to...

I think the tire lift with the Explorer was definitely due to the stock length radius arms and shorter axle. Did you already try moving the lower shock mount up on the radius arm?

I've always set them up to be "relaxed" at ride height. Maybe set them at mid-point of travel? That's an interesting question. I've never actually tried to set up bushing type shocks on a rig with as much travel as you have. My rear shocks are set up so the bushings are perpendicular to the...

I moved the front axle forward about 1.5". I still had to pound the pinch seam flat on the firewall because it cut up my tires. I was advised by the SAS gurus that it needed to be at least that far forward. I had to trim the back of the front fender a lot, and the front of the fender a little...

You use degree bushings to adjust caster. With a lift, the degree bushings actually turn the pinyon down while increasing caster. The bigger the lift and tires, the more caster you need to get it to drive right. If you wanted to change the pinyon angle you would have to relocate the wedgies...

If I remember correctly, I called Duff about their kit. The way the frame track bar mount uses the cross member and the bottom of the coil bucket you can't push it forward. You are better off buying a generic weld in track bar mount. Set the axle where you want it, install the track bar to...