If I remember correctly, I called Duff about their kit. The way the frame track bar mount uses the cross member and the bottom of the coil bucket you can't push it forward. You are better off buying a generic weld in track bar mount. Set the axle where you want it, install the track bar to the axle side and weld the frame side mount where it needs to go. If you use a weld in frame mount, you can also get the track bar and drag link the same length, something I should have done but didn't know better. My track bar is about 1.5" shorter than the drag link.
This picture is off Duff's website
I used an adjustable length bar from BC Broncos. Got their rod end steering kit to match. I've had to replace the tie rod but that was my fault. The saddle type tie rod to drag link mount causes a very small dead spot in the steering because of tie rod roll. Rod ends wear quickly in steering links. I've gone through at least four sets.
If I was going to do it over, I would get a one-ton TRE Y-link tie rod over knuckle steering kit from RuffStuff.
The track bar from BC Broncos has worked out very well. It has a rod end at the frame and uses plain old Ford bushings at the axle end. Keeps felt road vibrations down but still allows lots of movement. It's threaded several inches on the frame side so it can be cut down to fit.
The Duff kit doesn't address the single sheer axle track bar mount. I ended up double-shearing the axle mount after I used the Duff kit to raise it. Fabbing the mount out of 1/4" plate would have been easier. To get the track bar on the same plane as the drag link, you have to make adjustments to the mounts that the Duff kit doesn't have.
The coil buckets should be spaced out so the coils sit vertical. The early Bronco axle is about 3" wider than the frame rails if I remember correctly, which makes it near perfect for a swap, but nothing lines up.
The Duff radius arms retain the on-highway stability of a RA, but their length allows lots of articulation. I started out with 4* bushings but ended up using 7* ones to get the caster right. I have no idea how much lift I have.
Using a high pinyon D44 and radius arms means you can't point the pinyon shaft at the transfer case output. I used a double cardin front shaft, which I know is wrong but it allows more movement and less strain on the U-joints. With the Atlas II the shaft is very short.
I also ended up cutting out most of the crossmember and making a bolt in replacement. You can see it in the pics below. You have to hack it up to clear the HP D44. Having a bolt in one, makes accessing the bottom of the engine way easier and might save you from any oil pan clearance issues with the V8 swap.
Most of the issues I wrote about don't matter in the dirt, but do matter on the pavement.
Couple pics of my well used dirty suspension.
