Search results

I don't have any tips or tricks to replace it. A few beers and a lot of patience.

The first post states it starts and runs. Fuel pressure must be above 0 for that to happen.

Depending on the fuel pressure tester, the valve stem in the test port has to be removed to get a reading. I've had testers that wouldn't push the stem in. As stated in post 2, test the fuel pressure regulator. A bad fuel pressure regulator can flood the engine, make it run rough and stall at...

When the fuel pump was replaced, was the pickup tube, sock replaced as well?

Those headers, I wonder if they would work good flipped over and opposite sides for a low budget turbo manifold?

Post #52 applies to this too.

I'd count that as a win. Based on the way you described it, I wouldn't have thought it could have been at the rear axle.

I've seen a lot worse than that. Do you like the car?

What's the loan term and interest rate?

I guess so. I'll find something that gets me through there with plenty of time to stop.

I'll admit I'd like to cruise in it, too.

The question is, how much did the dealer mark up the price? Still pretty common for a dealer to tack on $5-10k in fees for nothing. I wouldn't doubt this car costing $85,000 after all the interest is paid.

It's California, a Big Mac costs $18 there so I'd accept it costing $3,500 for a $1,500 job. The A4LD is a money pit, a manual transmission swap is money better spent, but not everyone likes to row thru the gears.

Could you imagine paying close to $1,000 a month for 84 months? You could buy 2 houses in the Philippines for that and have some cash left over.

That Permatex brake parts lube is great stuff. It lasts a long time without drying out.

Mission accomplished.

Another satisfied customer.

Drill them with an 1/8 inch drill bit. They can be replaced with 1/4 inch bolts with nuts

Not close enough.

LS4 would bolt to that transmission too.

I'd rather have the 1st gen and build it.

351W based 460 stroker. Ford Motorsports sells a short block.

You don't drive a vehicle with an A4LD any farther than you're willing to walk. They can be built to be stronger, but that cost matches a V8 swap with a factory stronger transmission that can be built stronger if needed, than the A4LD ever could.

I've said it so much it's a running tradition now.

I've seen pictures of a 4.6 4v in a 1st gen Ranger.

So, you need a foam 351W block. I wonder if I can find a used one?

I'd like the details on the swap

Luxury vs necessity. It would take some creativity and skill, but I'm sure 410 could do it

A lot of room for a 351W.

I've accumulated about 5,000 DVDs over the years. I keep most of them in giant 3 ring binders with disc sleeves.

Thats my first thought.

If the transmission fluid isn't leaking out, going on the ground, it's going into the engine. Fixing the engine and transmission could be cheap simple things or it could be a perpetual money pit. The V8 swap is worth it just to get rid of the A4LD.

People with very old engines, where replacement parts are no longer available have to resort to this type of repair. I read about a guy that had a classic BMW with a cracked cylinder head. Oil was pouring out the side of the head onto the exhaust manifold. Some mechanics recommended a JB Weld...

That looks good.

Rust is like cancer. It returns, spreads and grows. Factory coolant never changed or pure water will do that. I'd be confident the head could be ran as is. The JB Weld will protect the metal as much as it will help seal.

When I was a car hauler, I transported a Model A with a Corvette 350 under the hood. Not sure what manual transmission it had, I only found 2 forward gears and reverse. What I learned is, the guys were attracted to the expensive new cars, but the ladies liked the clean classics.

The small holes in the gasket is normal. It's designed that way to regulate the coolant flow thru the head. The chipped spot being next to the chamber is the issue, that tiny ridge between the water port and chamber is all you have to keep the coolant out of that cylinder or compression out of...

If you ever have a head gasket failure, that would be the spot. If I had my heart set on using that head, I'd clean the rust off the metal around the chipped area, then build it up with JB Weld. It's not a high stress area, it just needs enough material so the gasket holds

There's a few in Phoenix for sale that look good

It needed to be a quote.