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Your answers probably lie in "the diary" quoting the TSB below. First few pages compare the options, 'while you're in there.' You may also want to look at The Stairway To The Diary...

Lemme try to post this from the second printing of 2001 owners manual:

^ +1... Yeah, I consistently neglect to do that and always pay for it with blown fuses and a trip to the parts store for more. Breaking news: I thought the information I posted pertain to ALL Gen 2 explorers, but... For 2001, there are two different printings of the owners manual. Guess what...

LB/W wire is hot at all times thru fuse #17 (7.5A) to cig lighter. BK goes to splice w/ your auxiliary power lighter Jack and then the ground. [Aux power jack 'hot at all times' wire is BR/PK and goes through fuse 22 (20A)] And yes, if fuse 17 keeps popping you have a short to ground on your...

Check fuse #1 & #28 for the power antenna. #1 also does your power mirrors and seats. #28 is probably good, because that one also does the radio and the GEM. Other than that, there's only an orange w/ blue stripe turn-on wire from the radio to the antenna. And, I have an extra...

Long list, isn't it? But, it looks like you've already got a good head start.

P0171 & P0174 codes are often and notoriously associated with leaking intake manifold gaskets. Those could be defined as vacuum leaks and your shop probably should have detected that, but... I don't see these on your list of replaced items. They are highly suspect at 150K, if not. Do you also...

Your choices for a direct fit solution have diminished significantly over the past few years. There used to be a lot of options, but now, only very-similar-to-stock options are available. Edit: I am speaking of my experience in Nov. with a 98 SOHC. YMMV, since you have a 95 OHV. You'll...

YMMV, of course, but others have also found these do not really hold up well beyond 30,000.

If you can't fix it with wrenches or yer BFH , watcha got there is electramicle problems. :chug:

I'm running 18s both sides up front and a 16 on the rear. Edit: The 16 on the rear is a just little too big and rubs on the hatch a little. I think a 15 on the rear would be ideal next time. I just double checked by watching mine run from outside. The 16 is perfect and just clears the hinges...

I just did both of my tensioners with Motorcraft parts at 150K and this seems to have just about solved my timing chain rattle issue. It (almost always) starts dead silent when cold now. The passenger side tensioner will still rattle on a restart every third or fourth time, if it's not warmed...

They're cheap, they work pretty well and they're painted a beautiful Ford Blue (for a year or two anyways). But, I had to replace one that started to leak after only 3 years and only 25,000 miles. :dead: So, this time around, I am replacing the fronts with...

Sweet. Glad you got her going and sounding good.

My set of manuals only goes through 99. The 99 is the same as the 98 however. 2000. :dunno:

The starter solenoid is actually mounted directly to the starter. I believe you are referring to the starter relay, which is often mounted to the fender on many vehicles. On 2nd gen explorers it's mounted under a black plastic cover on the side of the black fuse box under the hood, near the...

What year is your truck? Here's the instructions from Metra for the 70-5517 http://www.metraonline.com/files/products/INST70-5516_17_18_19_web.pdf It sez your black w/white is a ground wire. And, there is no amp-on wire on the Ford head units, and the sub-amp's power is wired to 'Hot at all...

^ +1 I also installed the Moog problem solvers. It's been 3 years now and I have been completely happy with them. And, I was also a rookie at working on vehicles before attempting this.

At the bottom of the steering column and above the brake pedal there are two torx screws that come loose. These are supposed to hold your "transmission selector lever arm" securely in place, and it connects to the shifter cable. The shifter cable connection is just out of the frame in the...

Hmmm... Does anyone know if the hot wire for the interior dome lights/courtesy lights exist outside the vehicle? It just occurred to me it sure would be nice if the whole underside of the vehicle little with the puddle lamps. By the way, you just gotta put super bright LEDs in your puddle...

I also seek the Holy Grail... I was at the junkyard today (yay me) and I pulled a pair of door-mounted 'Courtesy Lights' from a '97. Didn't get a chance to play with them before dark but I think that it'll mount right up in there without much of a mod. So I just gotta find the 'puddle lamps'...

Perhaps threads with more descriptive titles receive more attention. :dunno:

Hmmm... sounds familiar... especially uphill. Geez, I thought these were supposed to do that. Next project!

The bushings can be hammered out of either the old upper or the new lower fairly easily. Place it on a block of wood with a hole underneath the bushing (to allow it to pass thru) and an appropriate sized socket (or punch) on top to hammer gently on.

Looks good! Spot on. Congratulations! Upgraded parts list and saving hundreds. I think you're going to like it here. :thumbsup: :chug:. :thumbsup:

If you've got a 4.0 sohc, 4WD, 4-door, it looks like this one from AutoZone will work for vehicles before 11/07/1999... http://www.autozone.com/emission-control-and-exhaust/muffler//ford/explorer-4wd/1999/6-cylinders-e-4-0l-mfi-sohc/284925_607161_25138?location= But, yeah, these used to be...

^ +1 I just found the torque spec for these screws buried deep in the service manual (under steering column disassembly). These should be torqued to 10-13 ft/lb. As soon as it gets warm enough again, I'm gonna going to back mine out, put Loctite and lock washers on them this time and then...

I just found the torque spec for these screws buried deep in the service manual (under steering column disassembly.). These should be torqued to 10-13 ft/lb. The book says these are the bolts for the "transmission selector lever arm and support." As soon as it gets warm enough again, I'm gonna...

I just found the torque spec for these screws buried deep in the service manual (under steering column disassembly). These should be torqued to 10-13 ft/lb. The book says these are the bolts for the "transmission selector lever arm and support." As soon as it gets warm enough again, I'm gonna...

Yeah, post #2. How da f@#! did I miss that?? Well, at least we're all in agreement here! :thumbsup:

NOTE : All prices quoted above are today's price at AutoNation Ford White Bear Lake Ford (formerly Tousley Ford), and are for an '02 Explorer Sport Trac. Total = $82.27 w/o shipping or clips *I could not locate the clips except at my local dealer for $11 a piece - ouch. - Spuddy - OR -...

Hmmm... Well, yes, $494.12 is msrp on the complete set for a '97. The problem is you really don't want that because it's just going to leak again someday. What you want to do is what the OP did in the link I provided - swap out the lower thermostat housing with the new and improved version...

Bumper removal...

Well sorry I'm late here. Of course Rock Auto has that part (# XF2Z9F670AA)... http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1097539&cc=1354542&jnid=634&jpid=2 It is listed under the heading "Fuel and Air," Idle Air Control Valve Gasket... They call those white clips "Hairpin Clip Fittings" and...

OOPSIE! I thought I was looking at the Tasca Ford price, but, I was mistaken. Price I quoted was actually from Fred Beans Ford. Going to work up your parts list now.

Those parts shouldn't be that much even from Ford! Okay I just checked Tasca Ford. They have the lower housing for $40.76 (and list the MSRP at $61.76). I got the same part - Motorcraft RH144 - from RockAuto for $32.89. Yes, there will be a shipping fee added, but... Methinks yer boy is...

I forgot to mention that the leaking lower thermostat housing is a VERY common problem, and continued until Ford redesigned the lower housing, first appearing 7/24/00 on '01 Sport Trac's (and perhaps others?)

Well, you updated the thread before I finished my post! That sounds like pretty good news. I agree that $510 sounds like a good number for a total on this, despite the high labor $$.

^ +1 Completely agree with XLTrunner on your housing leak. I just replaced mine a few weeks ago. I noticed my leak (coming from around the sensors on the lower housing) when I took off the upper and lower intake manifold to change my leaking manifold gaskets. At least the upper manifold needs...