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Thank you! That's exactly what I was looking for!

Thanks for the reply, but I'm looking for the physical location of those relays. Any idea on where they are?

I searched and found several threads detailing the same problem, but none of them had the solution. I came home yesterday at noon on a bright sunny day and noticed my headlights were on. I waited for awhile to see if they would turn off but they never did (at least not until the battery...

It's not just the 95-96 OHV, my '94 had 337K when I traded it in. I thought the dealer would send it straight to the crusher, but I saw it driving around 5 years later. My '00 (OHV V6) is definately down on power at 300K, but still burns no oil. Seems ike it will continue to run for as long...

LOL, yeah living on a dirt road has that effect.

This just happened today. 2000 xls 4dr 4x4. Original engine and trans.

I followed your tips and got it bleed last night. Hopefully it stays vlad this time. Thanks again for the help!

Thank you so much! I will give that all a try when i get home tonight.

410, thanks again for the reply, I appreciate you talking this over with me. Is that 1/8" of play still about right for when the slave is connected or will it be a bit more? I understand the theory, and I pretty much did exactly what the video showed and it didn't help. That tells me the air...

Thanks! It's a Rockwell Jawhorse with the welding attachment. It comes in handy for a lot of things! One of these: https://www.amazon.com/Rockwell-RK9002-JawHorse-Sheetmaster-Workstation/dp/B005BTLXI8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1538052876&sr=8-4&keywords=jawhorse and one of these...

Thanks for the reply. I tried your trick and it didn't really work. I ended up taking it out and bleeding it like this. I did forget to replace the o ring, but this time I got it. How much should I be able to push in the push rod? With the line disconnected I have a little less than 1/8" play...

Having trouble with a hydraulic clutch on a '94 Explorer Sport. The throwout bearing went out so I pulled the trans and replaced the clutch and slave cylinder. Put it all back together, bled it and it seemed to work fine. Couple days later, it wasn't releasing, so I bled it again. Again it...

Did you find a solution? I'm having a similar problem with an '07 Mountaineer.

Did you guys ever find a solution? I'm having a similar problem with my son-in-law's 07 Mountaineer. He tried to give someone a jumpstart and wasn't able to start the dead car. Someone else jumped the guy and he went on his way. The next morning his battery was dead. We took a look at it an...

I am having getting a vibration in the front driveshaft that is driving me crazy. I have a '96 V8 Explorer with the double cardan front driveshaft. The vibration is the worst during acceleration right before the transmission shifts. If you take the front driveshaft out, the vibration goes...

The CV on my front driveshaft on my 97 Mountaineer went out. (Note I'm talking driveshaft CV, NOT half shaft). I read several threads on here about people who replaced theirs with the doorman part and the boot ripped within months. The reviews on Amazon for the doorman part say the same...

My '96 AWD has a vibration and some slop in the front driveline. The '96 has a double cardan style where my '97 has a CV. Is the 97+ an upgrade or is it just cheaper to manufacture? Would it be worth it to convert? Is either style rebuildable? I know some of them are not.

That's the kind of info I was looking for, thanks!

I replaced the RAP on my mountaineer, but it was dead dead, not intermittent dead. That's why I thought it might be a wiring problem rather than a RAP problem. Does the RAP fail intermittently or does it just die when it fails?

The problem is not with the fob. Like I said up above, the fob will open my '98 Explorer without fail. I will check the codes though, didn't know that would be reported.

The key fobs for my 2000 explorer quit working. I replaced the battery and that didn't seem to help. I recently bought a 98 explorer that didn't come with any remotes so I decided to see if I could program the remote for it, and it worked. The next time I tried it with the 2000 it worked...

My '94 had 337K on it when I traded it in. I screwed up installing the filter during an oil change at 140k and it leaked out all the oil. That screwed up the bearings. I went ahead and put new rings on it then and had the valves done while it was apart. That's the only thing I ever did to...

I finally got this done this weekend. I ended up taking the upper intake off, then I could reach down and get the bolt installed. What a pain!

Wow! Which engine do you have? Did you have the valves redone when you did the head gaskets?

I don't see how it would make a difference, they appear to be symmetrical. I was going to do just that, but it already had the kit installed.