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Then jack her up and check it out, check for play by grabing the tire at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock and wiggle it.. If their play then it's garabge, also one other way I check bearing when theirs no play but still howls on the highway is grab ahold of a spring or control arm and spin the tire, if...

I get atleast once of these problems every week, mostly on GM's but the fords too.. Remove the sensor without breaking it, plug the hole and file down the rust where the sensor meets the hub

Doesnt take long, maybe 20 minutes tops and thats with cleaning the area and topping up fluid... 0.4 hrs BTW, don't goto a dealer.. You're gonna get charged book time, even if the job takes 5 mintues

At first I thought it would be like the passanger side, 1-2-3... A buddy snapped a few shots with his phone, no wonder why I had bad gas mileage and pinging with no power

Alright, finally got a chance to replace the head gaskets and everything else today.. Got I crazy misfire, it's running rough..I'll post extra for the ones who feel like saying your two cents. I know that info isnt enough, proably lean on bank 2 because the the misfire... But hears what...

I'm finally going to be replacing my right (drivers side) head gasket and the lower intake... been leaking lots of coolant and now without the rad cap on shes a pouring. Looking for any tips or parts needed. new manifold bolts, head bolts, exhaust donut?? (if any), head gasket, lower...

Well I'm trying to fix this moulding for the driver piller that I cracked while replacing the windshield on a customers car tonight. It's not no high end car or something special so I don't want to have to replace this with a new one if I can make the plastic look some what good, if I cant...

also, try disconnecting some sensors and see if that helps.. like tbs, maf... only unplug one then try another one, might mork but make sure you scan your truck first. I bet you have a code store somewhere

You need a new starter

does your head lights or anything come on when this problem happens? maybe your ignition switch is going on your, or wires to it

wait, do you mean turn them up and down? I dont think they would move freely even if their shot, your tires are always putting pressure inwards, maybe up and down play (not turning them) Get someone to check for you to make sure

Well how does it start, simple as that A starter is going to take alot more amps then lights, if it starts fine then leave the lights alone

Seems simple enough, get out the testlight

Yeah those are cold cracked rods, I hope you are forsure their the right caps on the right rod. That engine would have been up in smoke in a matter of minutes if you started it, lol

Exactly, The dealer is gonna do the exact same thing. I'll even check Mitchells for any TSB's... Hate to see a guy loose his cool and money Their is one TSB, but the relay should click... Sometimes theirs a open from the relay to starter Is it in park, try nuturel, lol Check fuse 12 in...

Go see a small shop and ask them if they could scan it and look over the reading... Even better, get a movie of all the reading when test driving and post them up.

Break out that multimeter or test light and check. Does the relay click at all? try jumping it

Dont nothing about the that engine, but some rods are offset and seen this same thing happen if one was installed wrong. Or what happened to me befor is that i nicked the crankshaft with the connectiing rod, and loosend the cap and found it turned easier... LOL, showed everyone "does this...

Rattle, or clank?... Engine pinging would be my first guess if its sounds like a rattle

I would fist check the throttle body plate for carbon, or it may have a small hole in the plate and its plugged... just give a quick look over and clean it good. maybe IAC is sticking The EGR also provides air/gas vapour but not usually at closed throttle RPM's seems ok, not to sure whats...

No bludges or cupping on the tire, check good and run your hand all the way around. switch the tires from the rear and see what happend

You wont find all your codes on that scanner, just the Engine/emissions.. You need one that gonna cost $8000. Change the plugs and wires, maybe you can find the missing cylinder by looking at the plug. Its really hard to do without a good scanner and can look at fuel trim and sensor readings

I bet you pumped your brake padel right to the floor right? Dont do that, this is what causes most master cylinder seal leaks becasue of the corrosion built up inside the bore where the seal doent usually travel Start bleeding from the master cylinder and work your way out to the wheels...

not too sure about the exact one, but it looks the same as my explorers. I don't think I would hear the noise because their wouldnt be any load to make the "thump" Mitchell has some test to do for the replay and computer... I believe theirs a hall effect sensor somewhere too I will...

I'm just wanting some info guys..98-99 ford expedition I had this customer about 2 months ago, and the t-case was engauging like crazy. So, another mechanic says get new t-case. (I can't convince him that its not the problem, im just a "apprentice") So it gets changed, and seems so be...