94 XLT Cruise Control

I have a 94 Explorer XLT with a cruise control that doesn't work. I got it from my Sister last spring and she only drove it around town. She doesn't know how long it hasn't been working. It was working the last time she used it, but it could have been years. Any simple things that I should check first?

Thanks,

-- Paul

Check vacuum lines.

I had my 93' ex in the shop for leaking seals and when I got it back the cruise control did not work. They had forgotten to reconnect two vacuum lines, one of which worked the throttle servo. It is a small line crossing over or near the brake fluid res. from the servo mounted on the inside of the left fender wall.

My sister also has a 94. When her cruise didn't work, I swapped out the controller from my 92 and it worked. I swapped the controller back, and bought another one from the junk yard. The controller is mounted above the glove box. Just open the box, squeeze the sides together and rotate the box, and let it fall until it hangs upside-down. Then look up under the dash and you'll see a small box (probably green color) with several wires going to it. I'd say the controller is the culprit.

There is a recall out on Ford vehicle cruise control systems not sure if the X is included but i think it is. When my Lightning was at Ford they took care of it even though it wasn't listed for the recall.

Good to see another midwesterner.

The recall that is referred to is probably for the Cruise deactivation switch mounted on the master cylinder. I'm not sure if the Gen I had the switch or not. I know the 95s did. Needless to say, check fuses first.

I checked the fuses. The fuse is the same one as the radio, right? The radio works fine.

What model year controllers are compatible with the '94? How much should I expect to pay from a junkyard?

Thanks,

-- Paul

I paid 20 dollars. I have no idea what a new one would cost. Try a search...it seems like you can do a limited check-out procedure of the steering wheel switches by checking continuity at the plug of the controller (with it disconnected, of course).

I'm not sure of compatibility, but my 92 worked just fine in the 94 in all modes. I would guess that the first generation Explorers are all the same.

One other check...do you have a connector for trailer lights? I've heard a damaged wire there can mess up your cruise.

I dealt with my cruise being totally dead as well. The ford systems are a pain to deal with, since there is no built in diagnostics available, and not even a light to tell you its on or not.

First off, make sure the brake lights and horn are working. Then make sure the vac line is connected to the tree, and that the vacuum dump valve is working. Mine was misadjusted, so it was always open. On the servo, there is a hose that goes through the firewall down to a thing that looks like a pin switch that is mounted on the brake pedal assembly.



Pull the hose off on the servo, and either put a vaccum pump on it or suck on the end of the hose. If it is working properly, then it will hold vacuum or not let you suck air through it. If not, then it is defective or misadjusted. There is a black plastic thing mounted to the pedal shaft, and the valve can just be pressed down till it's making good contact with that and the pin is pushed in. It's one of those things that you must do by feel as you cannot both see and put your arm up there at the same time.

Next make sure the cable is not stuck, there are two screws on the servo that can be removed which will allow you to pull the cable away from the servo, this should open the throttle.

Wiring diagrams






Use the wiring diagrams and check for voltage and ground at the module, as well as for the resistances shown on the servo wires.

Switch Test



If you can track it down to one section of the system I can provide more info, it's too much of a pain to have to post up all of it. There should be a law that the service manual be included with the car lol.

-Ted

also check your steering column ground....found that issue on my `90 cougar...easiest check is test the horn as stated in previous posts

If you do the K11 voltage test it will verify everything in the column. No point in tearing stuff apart to check the grounds unless there is a problem indicated by the voltage test. Shotgun parts replacement doesn't make much sense when the troubleshooting is quick and easy.

-Ted

How many vacuum lines are used for the cc?
I have 2 missing spots on my vacuum tree. one of the spots faces the front of the truck, and the other faces down.
My cc vacuum line isn't hooked up because the hose coming from the cc is twice the size of the nipple on the vacuum tree.

There is one line to the tree for the CC that goes to the tree. If you have an auto trans there should be one unused spot facing forward.

EDIT: I had the wrong diagram... fixed it



-Ted

I checked the fuses, all good. I check the vacuum lines, all good. I checked the brake lights, all good. I check the vacuum dump switch, all good.

I'm gonna see if I can pick up a speed controller from the junkyard today. I'll try some of the more advanced stuff listed above if that doesn't cure it.

Thanks for the info. I'll keep you informed.

-- Paul

I hate just shotgunning parts and replacing something when someone says "oh I had XX problem and XX part fixed it". You did the right thing and checked the obvious stuff first. The controllers seem to be a common failure point, so remember the one you get from the junkyard may not be good either.... and there isn't really a way to test them, even Ford just tells you to substitute a known-good one. Good luck...

-Ted

Ted, this is the hose I'm referring to...


I was told that's for my cc. I went to plug it into the vacuum tree, I noticed the hose is twice the size of the nipple on the vacuum tree. Is that where it is supposed to go?

I just grabbed my cam and ran outside, realized that its freezing and pitch black, ripped open the hood on my parts truck, took that pic and ran back in lol.

The hose just goes right to the tree, IDK why you are having a problem, maybe someone else moved the hoses around and forced a smaller hose onto the larger nipple or something? I put it up full-size so you could see it better, click on it.



-Ted

Excellent!
Thank alot.
I'll have to take a look at it tomorrow.
According to your diagram, I think the missing vacuum line is the A/C control.
Would that stop the compressor from spinning? Cuz I noticed it won't come on, but I figured it was just low on freon.
I'll have to look into this further tomorrow.
You've been a huge help, broseph!

Nope, the compressor is engaged electrically. The vacuum line to the A/C control... A/C control?? WTF?

OH oops... That's not the right diagram...

This is..




Sorry about that...

-Ted

LOL...there we go. Nice, thanks.
I'll get back on here tomorrow afternoon and let you know what i find


Thanks again!
What book are you using? my Haynes doesn't have any of this stuff.

I'm using the real Ford service manual on cd. It's amazing; it covers everything that you could ever want to do, ever, and then some more stuff that you didn't even know you wanted to know how to do.

It's got pinouts, diagrams, theories of operation...and the best part...none of that you need to go to a real mechanic stuff that haynes puts in. If it's not in there, then you probably should not have broken whatever it is you are looking for. Haynes basically takes vehicle specific manuals and generalizes them into something better used to club spiders that are trying to crawl over you while you are under the truck.

So I try to help out the poor souls who have to suffer with the haynes (don't worry, i have to do it for the rest of the cars in my family too, so i feel you pain). The service manual should be standard equipment with a new car, it would save so much trouble. (I can hear the lawyers stampeding now). Checking you oil is far too hazardous...

-Ted