93 Explorer head gasket replacement

Hi all,
I've recently blown a head gasket on my 1993 Explorer XLT and am hoping for some advice. It's important to note that I'm not an experienced technician or even just a casual gear head, I'm just a 17 year old kid with my dad's old explorer; please forgive my ignorance. So far I've managed to pull the intake plenum as well as the driver's side valve cover. The gasket on the plenum broke during removal and the gasket for the driver side cover looks to be intact, though I will be replacing them all. I assume the passenger side gasket will also be intact. Am I correct in assuming that (most likely) the gasket found under the intake manifold is where the failure occurred?
Also..

-There is a small coolant leak at the timing chain cover. The leak hasn't increased or caused any problems for some time now and hasn't given me reason enough to go looking for it. While I've got the hood up, how difficult would it be to tackle this leak? I've no idea where the timing chain cover is or how to go about fixing it, but I'm game for about anything.

I'm sure I will run into many more problems as this project progresses. I grew up with this truck and it has given me 17 exceptional years (It took me camping when I was two months old and I had my first kiss in the back at 16), it would kill me inside to send it to scrap. I know I'm way out of my league with this type of repair job but I've got nothing left to lose.

Any sort of advice would be greatly appreciated and put to good use. Forgive me again if I misnamed anything or made any big display of my obvious ignorance.

Thanks.

1993, a headgasket is a hard job to me, but proably not to others. There are threads on the subject, but I didn't find one that went into all the details on replacing one. Do you have a maintenance manuel? Haynes or a Chilton? What tools do you have access to and work area? I actually had my engine swapped to keep from replacing a headgasket, but that is me.
The coolant drain is on the lower right of the radiator, (viewed from sitting in the drivers seat)
A lot of answers can be found by using the "search" function of the banner, just two spaces to the left of "log out". Give yourself some time to get the hang of using this forum, but there is a lot of great people on the forum who have a lot of experience.
With the memories you have of your X, I can see why you would want to keep it going.
Remember, the only stupid question is the one you don't ask. Ask away.
I'm subscribing to this thread, so I will help with what I can.

Thanks, ya I've spent a bit more time looking around and have found answers to a number of my smaller questions.

The Manuel will take some searching to find but I can't imagine my dad wouldn't hang onto it.

I'm working on the removing the alternator at the moment and shouldn't have too much trouble with that, afterwards I'll find the Manuel and drain the coolant.

I have all of the basic wrenches and sockets and a garage spot with enough room to work and store parts. I pry could barrow an engine stand for awhile if I really needed to.

Thanks again for the help, this is a very friendly place for sure.

If its a head or head gasket you have more to do...

The alternator bracket is bolted to the head, so pull the alternator and then then bracket.

On the other side you still need to pull the bracket that holds the A/C and the power steering pump.

If you have the upper intake off now, you still need to get the lower intake off (and the other valve cover which has to come off first).

Go ahead and leave the fuel rail connected to the lower intake. You don't "need" to take it off. You do need to remove the fuel lines off the fuel rail though.

Then comes the fun of pulling the heads. to get them off you need to pull the rocker arm assemblies out (3 bolts for each one). and pull the push rods. Keep the rocker arm assemblies and the pushrods in order so you can put them back where they came from.

You do need a big torx bit to pull the head bolts. I "think" they were t50, but don't quote me on that.

Of course, thats just off the top of my head.. You really want a book when doing it if you haven't done it before.

BTW. .you will need head gaskets, lower intake gaskets, valve cover gaskets, upper intake gaskets (will come with one that goes between the fuel rail and lower intake too).

~Mark

For your gaskets save some money and buy a gasket kit (FelPro #HS9724PT1), this will save you money from buying each one separately. This kit also includes some extra goodies like valve stem seals (you would have to get a valve spring compressor to do that job, its pretty easy). Also you will need to get head bolts as they are one time use only parts.
If you need manuals look for Haynes on Chilton books at your local auto parts store. If you want something more informative look for a factory service manual on ebay (a set of 2-3" thick books plus some sets come with EVTM books). For most stuff I look to the FSM for info but I still have a Haynes on hand for reference.
I know after I did my first head job I wanted to do more, now I am helplessly addicted!
Good luck

Thanks guys.

I've already got an order in for a head replacement set, but didn't know about the one time use bolts, thanks Tuck.

Mark, I've pulled the alternator just tonight and was then able to knock off the second valve cover and the lower intake. I haven't touched the A/C and the power steering pump, should I still pull that bracket?

...So to get to the heads I need to remove the rocker arm assemblies and the push rods, and from there the head bolts?

I've truly underestimated the value of a good Manuel and I'll head out tomorrow and buy one for sure.

I am gonna ask as I cannot see a mention of it so far...
Have you removed the exhaust manifold bolts yet? If not it should be done before you pull the head bolts. The manifold bolts are notorious for breaking (3 my first time, 1 my second!), caution is needed. Spray them all liberally with a penetrating fluid (PB blaster, liquid wrench, deep creep ect..., not WD-40 it is a lubricant. Let them sit for a few hours/overnight and spray again, some guys have had success by tapping the bolt a few times with a hammer or hammering the head where the bolt goes in. I personally go the route of LOTS of penetrating fluid, heat from a mapp gas torch and the impact set at a low setting. I have also incorporated the hammer trick a few times also. I found that I could get easier access to the exhaust manifolds by putting the Ex on jack stands, removing the wheels and then removing the plastic wheel wells. I could then hit all of my bolts with the impact, some with a wobble extension and some with a impact u-joint (i had some regular ones break on me!), but most of them with just a regular extension.

I have not removed the exhaust manifold bolts but I have liquid wrench and I will give them a good coating each day until I get the chance to take them off.

I don't want to ask stupid questions, but what does removing the exhaust manifold bolts do to benefit removing the heads? Am I removing the manifold or just the bolts? I found this thread which is why I ask: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=189302&highlight=93+explorer+exhaust+manifold

I'm currently left with the rocker arms to remove and then the head bolts. Do I need a torque wrench when I put the head bolts back in?

1993, the exhaust manifold bolts to the head, so in order to remove the head to replace the headgasket, the exhaust manifold must be removed. By removing the bolts, you might be able to just pull the exhaust manifold back just enough to remove the head, but don't force it back, you might even have to disconnect the exhaust at the first junction that has bolts securing it. I'm pretty sure you would not be able to get the access to the exhaust bolts as easy by putting it up on ramps, the tires are still in the way. Ramps are a good tool, but as tuckman said, the tires need to be removed to give you room to work.
Ask any question you want to on this thread pertaining to what you are doing. There are no stupid questions except the one not asked.

I read the thread and understand why you would ask that question. If you look the OP was in Texas where there is not a lot of snow and more importantly road salt. Seeing that your Ex has lived its whole life in Colorado, I am guessing it has seen its share of snow and road salt. This makes for seriously rusted manifold to y-pipe bolts, they are extremely hard to remove! I seriously spent days trying to get them to come off without snapping and still broke or cut 3 of 4 off! The only thing that saved my butt was that I have a mig welder and so I could weld nuts onto the broken studs. Then still I could only get 2 of 3 out, I had to drill the last one out. That too took a couple of days seeing that the first time the wife came back with cheap drill bits and I had the transmission out when I was drilling it out. So from experience I would suggest that you invest in or borrow some jack stands and go after the manifold to head bolts. If you break them off at least you can still proceed with the job at hand. Then have them removed when you take the heads to the machine shop, trust me if you have never removed a broken bolt you don't want to start on your heads.

Please keep asking questions, there are lots of people here that have done this more than once.

I would recommend that you buy or borrow a torque wrench for this job.

I will be able to borrow some jack stands and as far as I know I can get my hands on an impact wrench and a torque wrench.

...I've definitely picked a heck of a place to start learning about my Explorer...

I'll try and get some pictures up of where I'm at and from there I'll be able to ask some more specific questions I have. I bought a T50 torx bit today and it seems to fit alright but sits a bit loose, I'll get a T55 and see if it's a better fit.

Will I want to buy some RTV or some sort of gasket sealant for putting the new gaskets in?

I've never worked with a machine shop before, i know they'll check my heads for cracks and clean 'em up a bit ... but what happens if I have a crack? Can I get that fixed by the shop? How much does something like that cost? I am 17 and hardly-employed, after all.

I think t-50 is the one but it never hurts to have a t-55 in the tool box. When you do have extra money keep your eyes out for torx bit sets, I have 3 different sets. They start from the smallest you can think of also with the tamper proof bits that work in my multi-bit screw driver, this is the one.
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brow...uzol+Multi-bit+Drill+Attachment.jsp?locale=en
Then I have another set that I can use on a 3/8 drive ratchet, then the last set works on the ratchet but have universal joints on them.

Some cracks in the heads can be welded, if they are in the right places. If the worst does happen there is probably some people here that know where to get a cheap head. I would just ensure the shop checks for cracks first before doing any other work, most shops do that but it never hurts to ask.

Most guys here love the black RTV stuff, just make sure the mating surfaces are clean and dry when applying any color RTV.

The head gaskets get no rtv.how do you khow you blew a head gasket? The heads crack very easy so I would make sure its the gaskets and not the heads.

Ok so a question mark on the RTV.

I don't know if I blew a gasket and I obviously won't know until I can get the heads off, I plan to have them checked anyway. I'm more worried about getting them off than if they are cracked or not.

Man my fault I totally over read last post suggesting getting them checked.the heads get no rtv and the intake shouldn't either if the gaskets have it on it all ready.I put a very small amount on my lower intake gasket in all 4 corners.the kit should come with that rtv otherwise I use high temp silicone rtv.new head run around $300 I also know some one with a stock set laying around.

I also know a very cheap place to get a complete fel pro gasket set if you haven't yet

when you you get the rockers off check the tips they wear alot and should be replaced wile you have them out

So it's the weekend again and I finally have some time to work.

Before I pull the rocker arms I need to get the A/C unit off; I unbolted it and starting loosing the bolts that hold its two hoses on and some sort of gas or liquid (freon?) started to rush from the area. Is it ok to let all of that escape? Will I need to do something to refill or recharge it afterwards?

1993x said:

So it's the weekend again and I finally have some time to work.

Before I pull the rocker arms I need to get the A/C unit off; I unbolted it and starting loosing the bolts that hold its two hoses on and some sort of gas or liquid (freon?) started to rush from the area. Is it ok to let all of that escape? Will I need to do something to refill or recharge it afterwards?

Click to expand...

The gas isn't all that deadly but you still don't want it spraying in your face,eyes or to breathe it.

If you haven't let all the gas out leave the system closed if at all possible. Look for a way to set the compressor off to the side while still connected. I often use tie wire to hold it in place off to the side


If you let all the gas escape you'll have to get the system vacuumed out and then recharged. If if hasn't been converted to R-134 you might want to consider that.

Normally I would leave it where it is to avoid the hassle of having it recharged. However, after this gasket replacement I was hoping to get at a coolant leak I've had for awhile now at the timing chain cover. I think the A/C unit needs to go in order to reach that. I am not entirely sure.