01 Sport Trac - replaced valve body (5r55e) now no forward or reverse

I was having the infamous 2-3 shifting issues, so instead of just replacing some of the solenoids I thought I'd go with a revamped valve body with all the updates from 800700tran.com - complete with all the updates.

A big reason for going with this was the fact that there was some loose valve body bolts were found to be loose when I did a fuild/filter change a few weeks ago.

So, I replaced the valve body as per the official Ford Service Manual and all seemed to go OK until I started it up. No reverse - no forward either...

Fluid level is between the two dots on the bottom of the dipstick. I let it idle for about 10 minutes while I hooked Autoenginutiy (I have the Ford sensor software pack) and it didn't flag anything.

Any ideas?

Two questions I do have:

1.Regarding the low/reverse band servo. It was a little struggle to get it out but it seemed to go back in pretty easy and wanted to slide up and down pretty easily. Could it be that the O-rings needed replacing?

2. Are the special service tool "locating pins" required or is just lining it up using the bolts good enough. The Ford Service manual shows pins 307-333 and 307-334.

Did you line up the manual valve in the valve body? That probably is you problem.

I have heard nothing good of 800700 trans...

>Hopefully you didn't reuse the sep gaskets... should be replaced whenever removing the VB

>did you verify all the check valves where in before istall (Or was the sep plate already on it??

>You can OHM out the EPC to see if you just didn't get a bad one on the unit that came. should be 3.5-5.5 OHMS

swetrid said:

Did you line up the manual valve in the valve body? That probably is you problem.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the quick reply but could you expand a little on that?

I removed and reinstalled the manual control valve detent lever spring... Could it be that I installed it upside down and things aint quite as they should be. It 'seemed' to be OK and the trans 'seems' to shift when I move the gear selector but "no go".

... but the valve body was delivered with the bonded gasket installed, so it was something inside there then I have no idea.

If it makes any difference, I did do the swap with the truck on ramps and did get a bit more than the expected 4 quarts - right at 5...

... and 5 quarts of Ford Mercon V went back in.

Sorry forgot to add: Check post #48 for Specs...
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140987&page=3

ragajungle said:

I have heard nothing good of 800700 trans...

>Hopefully you didn't reuse the sep gaskets... should be replaced whenever removing the VB

>did you verify all the check valves where in before istall (Or was the sep plate already on it??

>You can OHM out the EPC to see if you just didn't get a bad one on the unit that came. should be 3.5-5.5 OHMS

Click to expand...

The seperator/gasket was already installed...

The manual lever valve is the sliding rod in the valve body that lines up eith the rod in the side of the transmission where the trans range sensor is. Can you feel the detent positions as you move the shifter through the gears? I can't find a good picture of it but it should be the only rod that moves by itself when you handle the valvebody.

swetrid said:

The manual lever valve is the sliding rod in the valve body that lines up eith the rod in the side of the transmission where the trans range sensor is. Can you feel the detent positions as you move the shifter through the gears? I can't find a good picture of it but it should be the only rod that moves by itself when you handle the valvebody.

Click to expand...

This guy?

... or maybe the thing (the notched 'star shaped thing) that it presses into?



Will keep looking through the manual - but I do have a feeling that it's something as silly as this.

Thanks y'all for your quick and helpful replies.

Raga - I'll get the multimeter out later.

Stupid question but you did put the filter back on after you replaced valvebody right? You probably should have needed 5-6 quarts of fluid also.

swetrid said:

Stupid question but you did put the filter back on after you replaced valvebody right? You probably should have needed 5-6 quarts of fluid also.

Click to expand...

No such thing as a stupid question.

Yeah the big plastic thingy with two O rings and a long bolt through the middle.

Funny you mention that but the filter was the only thing that I cursed at during the whole swap. Forgot that it pis$es trans fluid out of either end when you pull it off and that the "NAPA autopart filter" that was on there last used a different sized bolt head - 8mm rather than 10.

5 quarts came out and 5 went back in. I used filter, pan gasket and mercon V from the Ford dealer. When I checked after idling for a minute or so (after cycling through the gears on the shifter) the fluid level was between the two dots marking the top and bottom of the hash marks.

Would 1 quart make the difference between not going and working fine?

Just to cap all this off - my multimeter went on the fritz. Can't adjust for zero ohms... it's an old school meter with a manual adjust. Another trip to the store. I'm gonna be known as the "frowning dude that stinks of trans fluid"

The trans fluid is out but the pan is back on to keep the dust and bugs out. I wonder if dogs like trans fluid like they do coolant... A subtle way to once and for all get a dog poop free lawn courtesy of the neighbors mutt. In jest... maybe...

nother thought.... When you put the new-ish VB back on did you install a gasket between it and casing?

ragajungle said:

nother thought.... When you put the new-ish VB back on did you install a gasket between it and casing?

Click to expand...

It had the bonded gasket fitted.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140987&page=6

This nice picture KaiserM715 in post #117 that I've edited a little:




How do you ensure that the "spool" (the jagged sharkfin looking selector) is in that postion and does it actuate the piston/valve (is that the manual valve?) that's captured by the metal bar attached to the selector?

I'm thinking that this may be my problem... Unless mystically the valve lined up when I put the valve body in then this could well be it.

Just thumbing through the Ford Service Manual and I don't see any reference to this... Hmmmm.

A couple of hours under the Sport Trac and things are back the way that nature (well Ford) intended. That was the problem - or at least could be the problem as I haven't tried it yet.

As luck would have it I was just going to pull the valve body and replace the bonded gasket/seperator plate but ended up getting a re-man valve body with the gasket/seperator plate and all the servos and updated bits n bobs... so I had a spare bonded gasket laying around that came in rather handy.

Just need a new gasket for the low/reverse and the pan and I'll fill her up and give it a whirl tommorrow evening. The pan is on with a few bolts just to keep out the dirt, bugs and possums.

Thanks y'all for your help and suggestions - and to others who posted good stuff in other threads too.

Still can't believe that this little step isn't shown in the official service manual.

That was exactly what I was talking about just couldn't find the pic lol.

A picture speaks a thousand words...

I can go forwards and backwards now... and all was fine and dandy until about 15 minutes into the test drive and the 2-3 flare reared it's ugly head again... Flashing O/D light and after turning the engine off and back on again the check engine light came on. I'll pull the codes tommorrow - can't be fussed right now.

Time for Plan B - reconditioned valve body with updates and new/recon solenoids didn't work... more reading ahead.

But it did shift like a champ for that first 15 minutes though. Nice and firm.

Had a looksie at the adjusters for the bands and it looks like someones already been in there with an adjustable wrench and smacked it with a hammer a few times. The locknuts are "kinda sorta" nut like. This could be interesting.

Gotta figure out why the tach doesn't display the rpm correctly either. Autoenginuity displays the correct rpm when connected via the OBDII port but the tach guage is p1ssed. Takes about 15 minutes for it to figure out what the correct rpm is.

Thinking about that time line - that's the same amount of time it takes for the 2-3 flare and OD light to start flashing.

Remind me why I finally broke down and listended to the wife and ended up with a vehicle with an automatic transmission? I don't see the "blowing my brains out" emoticon in the smilies section.

Codes thrown:

P0720 Output Speed Sensor Circuit
P0721 Output Speed Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P1000 ODB Systems Readiness Test Not Complete
P1900 Output Shaft Speed Sensor Circuit Intermittent

I replaced the OSS sensor a while back. Wish I'd kept the old one to re-test as I recently discovered by old meter was faulty. Not something you really want when testing components. DOH!

Before you rip it all apart again just check and recheck the fluid. And if it is good make sure you Ohm out the EPC the other shift solenoids. I have heard a lot of crap about 800700 Trans - that they don't test soelnoids, they merely clean and degrease the VBs and with any (refurbed) item there is a likelyhood that you may get something with a **** ton of miles on it, worn bores and the like. If you get a chance visit wittrans.com and there is a beautiful writeup on 5r55e VB issues and what it takes to thoroughly test and rebuild one.

I am sorry to hear this such a PITA, God I know that feeling all to well...

-Mike

ragajungle said:

Before you rip it all apart again just check and recheck the fluid. And if it is good make sure you Ohm out the EPC the other shift solenoids. I have heard a lot of crap about 800700 Trans - that they don't test soelnoids, they merely clean and degrease the VBs and with any (refurbed) item there is a likelyhood that you may get something with a **** ton of miles on it, worn bores and the like. If you get a chance visit wittrans.com and there is a beautiful writeup on 5r55e VB issues and what it takes to thoroughly test and rebuild one.

I am sorry to hear this such a PITA, God I know that feeling all to well...

-Mike

Click to expand...

Yeah...
... for years I've given auto transmissions lots of **** for this exact reason and for some inane reason I got the wife a car with an auto trans. Karma has come to haunt me. LOL...

But at the very least it's a learning experience.

Sad thing is - the nearest 5sp manual Sport Trac I can find for sale under $10,000 is 3,100 miles away. Not making that road trip (West Palm Beach to Sacramento) again - did that a few years ago when we picked up an old Camaro and drove it back here.

For what it's worth - my trans fluid level is right in the middle of the two dots on the dip stick after about 15 to 20 minutes of driving around in town - measured with the engine on and in park. Would it help to top it off to the edge of the hashed mark? Just curious.