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'00 5.0L Oil pressure switch

koda2000

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does anyone have any tips on replacing the oil pressure switch on a 2000 5.0L? it seems to be between the top of the oil filter and p/s pump. mine occasionally sticks and will register no oil pressure when first started, then after a minute it will pop up to normal (no lifter noise). it's done it twice since Oct. can you get at the switch if the oil filter is removed?
 



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i think you might have to pull the drivers side accessory bracket off to get it

That's what I'm afraid of. I wonder if I can get at it through the driver's wheel well if I take the splash shield loose?
 






I just did my 01's a couple weeks ago. I removed the driver side wheel, the splash guard, and unbolted the P/S hoses from their mount on the A/C compressor so I could move them out of the way. Used a few extensions and a swivel, but I got it.
 






I just did my 01's a couple weeks ago. I removed the driver side wheel, the splash guard, and unbolted the P/S hoses from their mount on the A/C compressor so I could move them out of the way. Used a few extensions and a swivel, but I got it.

Thanks Willcall. I thought I remembered seeing the OPS when I was doing the ball joints on my '01, but that was 2 years ago and the old memory isn't as good as it used to be.
 






I did exactly like Willcall said. Also you could add a 4"x1/4 NPT plumbing pipe to extend the location of that sensor - for ease of access. I used hi-temp Teflon tape (pink one) on threads. I added the extension pipe and a T on top of it, to plug in a "real" pressure gauge in that place.
And yes, the space is limited, that PS conduit takes only 1" but is 1" that you will need...

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I did exactly like Willcall said. Alternately you could add a 4"x1/4 NPT plumbing pipe to extend the location of that sensor - for ease of access. I used hi-temp Teflon tape on threads.

I appreciate the suggestion, but twice I tried using a 2"x1/4 NPT brass extension fitting to extend an oil pressure sensor horizontally and twice they cracked within a year making for a huge mess. Vibration? Metal fatigue? Don't think I want to try it again. You have to go easy on the Teflon tape on the threads too, because the sending unit needs to ground to the block to work.
 






The tape is so thin that will be cut by threads. One layer of tape is all I used.
Also, I used brass pipe, from Lowes - it is there for several years now. I took out the part that was connected to the analog pressure monitor and capped of. I forgot all the details now, I think I have a male-to-female changeover too.

Hmm, have to take a look in there just to see how's holding.
 






Honestly, pulling the accessory bracket off as vroomzoomboom suggested is a really fast (way quicker than it looks).
I needed to add a T to run another oil line from that spot, and it was super easy to do after getting the crap out of the way.
 






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