02 XLT - New to Explorers - Some advice appreciated

[Bossman27]

Hello, this is my first post on this forum and I've learned a lot just doing searches, this is a great forum. I just bought a 2002 XLT 4.6L 4x4 with 70,000 miles on it. It's going to be our new family vehicle and I wanted to do a full top to bottom, front to back tune-up on it over the next few weeks. I'm definitely not new to Fords I'm only new to the 4.6L motor. I've only ever worked on diesels and windsor style V-8s. Here is what I'm planning on doing. Let me know if this is way overkill or if you would add/change anything. I get crazy when I buy something used because I'm so **** about my cars and trucks so I just change/replace everything.

I found that the oil was 1.5 qts low! This led to a ticking noise (sounds like a collapsed or dirty lifter) under the passenger side valve cover towards the back. It ONLY ticks under load, idle is totally quiet. I think whoever changed the oil didn't know this motor took more than 5 qts. I changed oil using 6 qts of 5w-30 and the noise got quieter but it's still there. I added .5 qts of Marvels Mystery Oil and it got even more quiet. I'm going to rechange the oil in a few hundred miles using full synthetic 5w-20, maybe that will get rid of this noise, I hope so.

Trans fluid and Filter
Flush Brake Fluid
Flush Power Steering System
Change Spark Plugs
Clean EGR system
Clean MAF sensor
Air Filter looks new already
Change Front and Rear Diff oil to full synthetic
Change transfer case oil
Full Grease job - U-joints/Slip yokes/Trans yokes/front and rear hubs and suspension
Serp Belt and possibly new Idlers/Pulleys
Coolant Flush
Change Fuel Filter
Replace Oxygen Sensors (not sure how many there are)
Change PCV
Run some Seafoam through brake booster line.

Anything else? Are there any other sensors that are prone to needing cleaned that I didn't mention or know about? Thanks!

 

[Claytondunn210]

i would go ahead and do upper and lower ball joints if you see any signs of wear on the boot. mine started feeling funny after the boot started falling to pieces. get the moog problem solvers huge difference over stock. also recently change rear diff to 75-140 mobil 1 synthetic and wow i had the biggest smile afterwards it really makes a huge difference

 

[Bossman27]

Thanks for the reply, ok sounds good I'll check those ball joints over really well. I'm chomping at the bit to get started but I majorly injured my thumb on my right hand and it's been in a cast. So I'm out of commission for awhile. I have until the 30th and then the cast comes off. I'll tear into it right away after that. I've never had anybody change my oil before until I got the oil changed in this explorer last week at Goodyear. It was killing me watching somebody else wrench on my car! I thought about attempting the oil change with only one hand but then thought better of it.

 

[thepotroast]

Inspect your rear springs on the strut assembly. They are well known to have cracks and break on the 02's specifically.

Since you have been doing a lot of searching and reading on here, you already know about the notoriously common rear differential whine associated with these trucks. At 70k miles, if it hasn't already been repaired/replaced, expect to start hearing whine back there...it goes away when you let off the accelerator and are coasting, but anytime you apply a constant speed or accelerate usually through a certain speed range (ie. 30-60MPH), there will be whine there.

Perhaps your diff was already repaired and/or replaced. Keep and eye on that.

I have a "how to" on doing the upper ball joints, do a search on my posts. The dealership, Haynes manual, and repair shops will tell you that it has to be replaced as a complete control arm assembly since it's a pressed unit, however it can be pressed out with a ball joint press tool (free to rent from autozone), and will save you a lot. I put Moog's in mine at 100k miles because my uppers were completely shot. Cost was $40 per side compared to $170 per side for the whole assembly.

Wheel bearings will be around the 100k mark, again...a common issue. If you've done your reading here, you already know that. Front and rears, cheaper of course if you do it yourself, it's a bit labor intensive but we have guides here that walk you through it with pics.

Welcome to the boards.

 

[zerodevil]

the o sensors are still good in my 2003 at 118,000 miles so those are probably good to go. deffinately change all of the fluids and the fuel filter. some injector cleaner wouldnt hurt either. these engines "tick" a little, there is a TSB for it from ford. I have a 2003 explorer and have done a fair amount of maintanance to then, welcome to the forum bud. btw the oil on these is a solid 1/10 on the difficulty scale, my only sugjestion is you use K&N oil filters for the 1 inch bolt head on the bottom of them (not a lot of room for a oil can wrench).

 

[Bossman27]

Thanks for the responses everybody. Pot Roast I read your write up on ball joints, looks like a do-able job and that is an A-1 write-up. Most people don't own a shop press, it makes life REAL easy on stuff like ball joints. I have a huge dixie chopper lawn mower that has two centrifugal clutches on it that the manufacturer claims "Can't be rebuilt"....bologna! A new unit costs 900 dollars. Me and My Dad pressed the old ones apart, replaced the clutches and bearings and put it back together. Without the press this would have been impossible. If someone put it together, it can be taken apart. I get VERY skeptical when somebody tells me "it can't be done". The truth is that it can't be done by 98% of the general population who doesn't have the know-how, tools and/or gumption to attempt it.

I noticed these explorers have unit-style wheel bearings, that sucks. They are just like the ones on my 2000 Superduty 4x4 only smaller. I've changed both of those so doing the explorer should be an ok job. Looks like those 15mm bolts are a pain, I'll probably cut those off. It'd be nice of Ford to put a serviceable bearing in the front end of these trucks.

My main concern right now is getting the trans fluid and filter changed. If the previous owner hasn't had it changed in 70K I may be in for trouble. So far the vehicle drives smooth, makes no noises except the motor ticking (which I'm hearing may be normal..?) and overall is a nice ride. Again, thanks for the responses and have a good day.

 

[miker104]

Only the fronts are unit style bearings. The rears are press in ones. There are two excellent how to threads on here for the front (by High_Order1) and the rear (by Tyler92) that are really good for the uninitiated. If you have a press, enough said.

Fronts:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=194002&highlight=wheel+bearings

Rears:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=251915&highlight=rear+hub

 

[thepotroast]

Only the fronts are unit style bearings. The rears are press in ones. There are two excellent how to threads on here for the front (by High_Order1) and the rear (by Tyler92) that are really good for the uninitiated. If you have a press, enough said.

Fronts:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=194002&highlight=wheel+bearings

Rears:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=251915&highlight=rear+hub

Mike hit it right on the head with that one.

I've heard where a lot of folks just cut off the bolts now on those front. If I ever have to do the fronts again, I probably will do the same thing next time, the bolts are a real PITA to get off with a wrench. I easily put over 250 ft lbs on that Craftsman deep offset I used, so much so that it turned the closed end blue and purple when I was done, I applied no heat. I'm about 250lbs and 6'2", and I had to put more than just my weight on those front bolts. I had to break out a mini sledge and pound the crap out of the end of the offset wrench to even get them to move. They never really freed up...they were stubborn all the way out.