Plugs from driver side. Like I said above they look ok to me but I don't know as much as you all do.
Also I did not use motorcraft plugs as I said earlier. I put motorcraft in my f150. I used the autolite plugs for the Explorer.
Plugs look good
Same plugs I use
Take care not to strip out the spark plug hole in the heads it happens easily
Wow; you're really going in deep on this one; all manner of sensors and data!
It worked fine, and then suddenly didn't, with no knocking or smoke or overheating or other drama. That suggests (to me) an electrical failure or a computer failure. You also might look very closely at all vacuum tubes and hoses for splits.
Failing all that, I'd suggest that one of your timing chains has slipped/jumped/whatever somehow. Running normally at idle but abnormally on load / vice-versa is a classic indicator of cams out of time. The noise you're hearing might be timing chain slap: ot's not lifters, as your car has no hydraulic lifters. In your video, it sounds like it's coming from the forward end of the driver's side engine bank, which is precisely where the cam timing chain is for that side.
Unfortunately, the only way I know of to confirm is to time the camshafts. Not SUPER-hard, but it does require a special tool set, and once you get in there you will likely find that all the timing chain guides are trashed as well. Timing chain guide failures are a classic problem on these machines.
How to: - SOHC V6 Camshaft Timing
The SOHC V6 is an interference engine. If the valve timing relative to the crankshaft is excessively in error, pistons and valves may collide resulting in engine damage. The photo below by cjmedina shows the results of a slipped rear timing chain. The timing slipped 50 camshaft degrees and the...www.explorerforum.com
I've done this job many times, and my Explorer has exactly this engine. If you wanna tackle it, happy to help.
How would you test them other than a continuity test just curiousI found out the hard way once. Plugs can look good but the internal resistor can be bad and grounding out internally. One thing I hate about resistor plugs which all are these days. (I have another vehicle that uses special non-resistor plugs).
How did you strip that spark plug hole?
I see it happen all the time but never happened to me knock on wood
Did you thread them in by hand or ?
I screw them in by hand all the way no socket. If it's hard to get to I put a rubber hose on the end of the plug to help guide
but you can't cross thread that way
Then I tighten it with a wrench
I also put some antiseize
I found out the hard way once. Plugs can look good but the internal resistor can be bad and grounding out internally. One thing I hate about resistor plugs which all are these days. (I have another vehicle that uses special non-resistor plugs).
How would you test them other than a continuity test just curious
2003 XLT 4WD
4.0 SOHC
110,231 Miles
Will not go over 5mph but it wants to die out. Max rpm is 2000(even at almost wide open)then it bogs down to around 500 rpms then back to normal idle.
It's not missing at all.
I went to Lowe's yesterday it was fine. Left the store stopped at a red light and it took off as usual but on the entrance ramp it started to bog down. I barely got it on the shoulder. Service Engien Soon light was on.
Got it home and after some reading I decided to replace the TPS. Remove the battery cables, removed the TB, swapped the sensor out, replaced everything, put the positive on but not negative to reset it. Waited 45 minutes. No change.
Today I remove the blue cap and checked to see if it was getting enough fuel. I do not have a gauge but I'd find it hard to believe that what was there wasn't enough.
There is a rattle but my ears are not good and I cannot pinpoint it. I can hear it while under the hood with the engine running or from the driver's seat with the door open.
I ordered a Blue Drive scanner on Amazon last night and it got here today. No codes except the P1000.
I've found videos, threads, and other sites that say timing chain, clogged cat, O2 sensors, and a bad pcm.
Plugs, wires, coil pack, fuel filter all done within the last 12 months.
I'm not a mechanic really and 85% of what I have learned has come from this forum so I can't offer much.
Can a dealer pull codes that my scanner cannot see and find out whay that SES light was for?
I can take screen shots of whatever data my scanner can provide if that'd help.
Cut the cats off ...or un hook from the heads and see if exploder will run. If it does new ones or cut off.
Timing chains are tight and no broken guides. Everything in the head seemed solid, nothing broken or loose.
Plugged exhaust
Worth a look imo
It only takes one glowing cat for one to remember lolDonald I overlooked your earlier posting about