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03 lincoln aviator

"But i do still have a roaring sound like mud tires but again this truck has 3 different tires on it and crappy ones at that..sounds like its coming from rear..."
 



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"But i do still have a roaring sound like mud tires but again this truck has 3 different tires on it and crappy ones at that..sounds like its coming from rear..."
Yea which side is the question. ..guess ill just buy both..hate just throwing parts at it,its starting to get expensive. .

or you saying it could be the tires??
 






Mismatched tires can cause havoc on these vehicle's drivetrain.
 






Mismatched tires can cause havoc on these vehicle's drivetrain.
They are all the same size,just different brands and more of a aggressive tread..this truck is 2wd also

When i did rear brakes the hubs felt good to me.. quiet,tight and no play
 






Sorry, didn't see the 2WD part.
 






The play on these bearings (unless absolute failure) is basically unmeasurable.

The fronts shouldn't move more than 0.07". Measure that.
 






The play on these bearings (unless absolute failure) is basically unmeasurable.

The fronts shouldn't move more than 0.07". Measure that.
Lol yea im use to first gens where the wheel almost wobbles..my buddy thinks its the rear passenger.

Doing O2s right now,hopefully thats fixes my 0430 code.
 






Well the O2s didnt fix the rough idle..ran great for about 20mins then started acting up..its intermittent though, doesnt do it all the time and CEL has come back on..im kind of at a lost now..

Things done...
-Plugs
-Coils
-O2s
-Checked for vacuum leaks (Soaked the whole upper end with starter fluid)
-unplugged IAC (rpms changed)
-cleaned MAF

Any more suggestions or ideas? ?again only does it sometimes after its hot and runs fine at cruise and WOT all the time..still getting 0430 but only after the idle starts to act up

@boominXplorer you think hooking it to your machine will tell us anything more??
 






Well worse case scenario. ..looks like ill be rebuilding my first 4.6 dohc motor..

Hooked it to my buddies fancy machine and confirmed everything was working properly,showed a dead #7 cylinder . ..then did a compression test and got 90 lbs..test the ones right next to it and got well over 150..

From research it looks like its gonna be a bad valve seat and guides,for 6 months they used a coating on the guides before changing the head design again.i didnt know about this and is alot more rare than the previous head issues. .

Ford calls for this motor to be removed to get the heads off,i have seen some threads that say you can do it but there is like 3 head bolts that cant come all the way out..the people have put rubber bands around those head bolts holding them up enough for the head to slide off..we shall see if i can do it..ill be doing guides and tensioner also..the heads will go to my machinist to have new seats and brooze guides put in BOTH heads..

Looking around $400 in parts and who knows for machine work be considered there is 32 valve seats and 32 broonze guides! !! :( :( :(


O and it was clearly obvious that the guy i bought it from new this was the issue, he even cut the coil and injector lumes back to check wiring ontop of doing injectors, coils and plugs...which he gave me coils saying he hadnt installed them but i could tell they had been and also it had brand new NGK plugs in it..HE GOT ME GOOD
 






Ouch.. $527 for parts..lets see what my machinist says,sure he will want me to pay for my other motor first!!

Screenshot_2016-07-30-17-17-01_zpsmyg830ma.png
 






Explain how the freight is so low sir! What tomfoolery have you done?

Seriously though.
 






Rockauto to can be awesome with shipping prices sometimes. I have had huge orders like that next day air for under $30. Not sure how they calculate shipping but it seems to always favor the customer.

On the good side of things you still had 90 psi in #7. #6 did have closer to 165-170 and I only think we let the motor spin 2x while testing. I think you should jump on this sooner than later because if the seat falls then you will probably end up needing at least a new head if not a piston also.

Even with the 90 psi and the motor barely twitching, cyl 7 was completely dead. It never came alive the whole time the scanner was hooked up. With this situation and all the raw fuel going into the exhaust that is where your po430 code for catalyst inefficiency comes into play. I would consider unplugging #7 injector if you keep driving it for the time being. It will at least save the cat.
 






Explain how the freight is so low sir! What tomfoolery have you done?

Seriously though.
They all shipped from same place and believe from Ohio. I normally get there stuff next day
Rockauto to can be awesome with shipping prices sometimes. I have had huge orders like that next day air for under $30. Not sure how they calculate shipping but it seems to always favor the customer.

On the good side of things you still had 90 psi in #7. #6 did have closer to 165-170 and I only think we let the motor spin 2x while testing. I think you should jump on this sooner than later because if the seat falls then you will probably end up needing at least a new head if not a piston also.

Even with the 90 psi and the motor barely twitching, cyl 7 was completely dead. It never came alive the whole time the scanner was hooked up. With this situation and all the raw fuel going into the exhaust that is where your po430 code for catalyst inefficiency comes into play. I would consider unplugging #7 injector if you keep driving it for the time being. It will at least save the cat.

I drove it home and tomorrow gonna drive it to my shop,that is IF AND BIG IF the landlord will let or give me another 2 weeks or so on that building. .hopefully i can catch a break!!

Also ordered a shop manual and wiring diagram on ebay for $40 shipped, he had a "best offer" option and he accepted it
 












Stick with the regular tstat. Unless I'm sitting in traffic during the summer heat, with a 195° stat, coolant temp rarely goes over 194-196°.

Now that my 4.6l has a fan clutch again (electric fan fell apart) I'll be able to see how the engine runs (using my Ultra-Gauge) and compare it to when I had an E-Fan.


Edit: I live in Atlanta.
 






Stick with the regular tstat. Unless I'm sitting in traffic during the summer heat, with a 195° stat, coolant temp rarely goes over 194-196°.

Now that my 4.6l has a fan clutch again (electric fan fell apart) I'll be able to see how the engine runs (using my Ultra-Gauge) and compare it to when I had an E-Fan.
Where do you live?? The 170* is said to keep it at 185-190* and fully open by 195-200*...

On this one ill think ill be going with the 170*,too many people have used it with great results,especially considering the high compression of this motor.keeping it a little cooler with help down the road when tuning comes into play
 






I've been told to be careful about how low to go with a t-stat. Running too low of temp can effect gas mileage because computer doesn't think the engine is at running temp. Too much fuel can have bad effect on cat. converters. I would stick with the t-stat temp that came on the truck originally. Just my .02.
 






170 does seem low. It's probably made more for racing applications that need to have the thermostat open within 2 min of starting the engine. I also think you should stick with original temp. They should make a high flow one.
 






I've been told to be careful about how low to go with a t-stat. Running too low of temp can effect gas mileage because computer doesn't think the engine is at running temp. Too much fuel can have bad effect on cat. converters. I would stick with the t-stat temp that came on the truck originally. Just my .02.
Stock is 180* it also is a very sloppy built tstat that starts to open late,runs hot and doesn't fully open till almost 220*,thats to hot for a aluminum high compression motor that is known for having heat issues with its heads.....

now the 160* racing tstat isnt recommended in cold climates and definitely needs tune adjust. .

The 170* is said not to even need tune adjust unless you have electric fans,then the "on and off" need adjustment..i believe the ecm is set for 175* for when it considers fully warm and starts to ""learn" and make adjustments. .the 170* is said to keep the motor around 185-190* which is still plenty warm enough for "learn" mode..also ill be doing tuning down the road so if it is a issue i can and will adjust it then..;)

No comments on the addition of the rear coolant plugs/crossover/addition hose to heater?? Anyone else using this model/type or one similar? ?

I want to keep these new heads as cool as possible. .especially when i start looking for a supercharger ;)
 



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170 does seem low. It's probably made more for racing applications that need to have the thermostat open within 2 min of starting the engine. I also think you should stick with original temp. They should make a high flow one.
Well damn..10* in my book doesnt seem low especially considering how the stock one is spose to work and doesnt..

I cant find any for the Aviators, the 170* is for the mustang dohc,assuming it fits
 






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