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03 lincoln aviator

Stock is 180* it also is a very sloppy built tstat that starts to open late,runs hot and doesn't fully open till almost 220*,thats to hot for a aluminum high compression motor that is known for having heat issues with its heads.....

now the 160* racing tstat isnt recommended in cold climates and definitely needs tune adjust. .

The 170* is said not to even need tune adjust unless you have electric fans,then the "on and off" need adjustment..i believe the ecm is set for 175* for when it considers fully warm and starts to ""learn" and make adjustments. .the 170* is said to keep the motor around 185-190* which is still plenty warm enough for "learn" mode..also ill be doing tuning down the road so if it is a issue i can and will adjust it then..;)

No comments on the addition of the rear coolant plugs/crossover/addition hose to heater?? Anyone else using this model/type or one similar? ?

I want to keep these new heads as cool as possible. .especially when i start looking for a supercharger ;)

You might want to post in the modified section. Getting into modifications, tuning, superchargers, etc you'll probably find a lot more help in that section. Lot of good people over there that can give you more accurate advice so you can successfully reach your goals without reinventing the wheel, as they say.
 



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You might want to post in the modified section. Getting into modifications, tuning, superchargers, etc you'll probably find a lot more help in that section. Lot of good people over there that can give you more accurate advice so you can successfully reach your goals without reinventing the wheel, as they say.
Yea once i reach that point i planned to start a new thread..for now im just trying to get it back to running like stock but cooler and more efficient. .im sure once i start tearing this apart ill have tons of questions about it,idk if rebuilding a stock motor would be considered for the "modified" section.

If a mod wants to move this,go ahead.dont think i can

I guess ill stick with the stock 180* for now,till i get a tuner.the tstat is easy to change..
 






If your adding the rear coolant crossover then at least use a stock tstat at first. Just easier to rule out issues getting it back running. Once it's rolling down the road good then you can start swapping temp tstats and what not.
 






If your adding the rear coolant crossover then at least use a stock tstat at first. Just easier to rule out issues getting it back running. Once it's rolling down the road good then you can start swapping temp tstats and what not.
Very true and good point
 






Machine shop said $800-1,000 for new hardened exhaust seats,bronze guides(all valves),deck and valve job..3-4 days turn around..


Looks like i got ALOT of work to do and blindly at that..
FML
 






still, could be worse
 












Why do my intake ports look cracked? ?these are passengers side..all of them look close to this,some much worse than others..

20160802_193212_zpslsiyvq8q.jpg


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20160802_193358_zpsolpiqtcd.jpg
 






Well found a couple other pictures and they have said its casting lines...very bad casting lines at that..think i may take the time and clean these heads up some. .get ride of all the casting lines,then do some slight porting and polish ..may do the intake and tb as well..

Got the motor down to the heads today in 2 hours..hardest part was getting the radiator out..i took about 12 screws out and the thing still came out with the shroud and sides attached..i did break the lower shroud on the water pump shaft..also broke a sensor on the crossover tube..so far everything on this motor has been easy to work on (knock on wood)

Lets pray i can get to all the exhaust manifold bolts tomorrow and that the heads come off without issues! !!
 






How?? Got a bad motor, trans,wheel bearings,grill and tv.....
I mean our first world problems is all.

Go to Haiti and see familys living next a pile of dirt that once was their home... 6 years after the earthquake... The kids eat dirt cakes to simply put something in their empty stomachs.

Go to Russia where there are orphanages overflowing with kids and getting budget cuts.

Just gets annoying hearing people say their problems are the end of the world. When it really is just an inconvenience. Tis all.

For exhaust work, be sure to thoroughly spay with penetrating oil repeatedly for days before you touch it.
 






I mean our first world problems is all.

Go to Haiti and see familys living next a pile of dirt that once was their home... 6 years after the earthquake... The kids eat dirt cakes to simply put something in their empty stomachs.

Go to Russia where there are orphanages overflowing with kids and getting budget cuts.

Just gets annoying hearing people say their problems are the end of the world. When it really is just an inconvenience. Tis all.

For exhaust work, be sure to thoroughly spay with penetrating oil repeatedly for days before you touch it.
O yea,i was just referring to the truck..lol my life is great,my baby boy turns 2 months old tomorrow/today..

Yes been saoking EVERYTHING for last 2 days prior to working on it

Any advice on how to get to all the bolts??
 






On most Ford modular motors you pull and install the head with the exhaust manifold attached. In most applications you can't even sneak the manifold in with the exhaust studs on or off its so tight.
 






On most Ford modular motors you pull and install the head with the exhaust manifold attached. In most applications you can't even sneak the manifold in with the exhaust studs on or off its so tight.
I literally was just texting you that i was gonna try that..i just ordered the transmission servos so going to pull the y-pipe and do them wile waiting on head..
 






So i have a broken lower passengers chain guide, a 2" piece is missing. .how important is it that i find it??assuming its sitting in the bottom of the pan..

Heads and chains all look really clean
 






So i have a broken lower passengers chain guide, a 2" piece is missing. .how important is it that i find it??assuming its sitting in the bottom of the pan..

Heads and chains all look really clean

I just bought the cloyes set from rockauto for my 2005. Haven't had time to install it. My engine had the cold start clacking. Ford recommended 5w20 oil to prevent the chain from slapping around and breaking the guides. Here are the install instructions for the motorcraft kit if you need it.

https://performanceparts.ford.com/download/instructionsheets/FordInstShtM-6004-A464.pdf
 






I just bought the cloyes set from rockauto for my 2005. Haven't had time to install it. My engine had the cold start clacking. Ford recommended 5w20 oil to prevent the chain from slapping around and breaking the guides. Here are the install instructions for the motorcraft kit if you need it.

https://performanceparts.ford.com/download/instructionsheets/FordInstShtM-6004-A464.pdf
I got all new guides and tensioners..thanks for that link,very helpful,especially the bolts placements
 






I got all new guidesand tensioners..thanks for that link,very helpful,especially the bolts placements

Here are some videos. You'll need to use gasket maker at certain points of the timing cover, which i don't think the PDF covers. I think you have the service manual though, so it should be in there.

In car service of Timing Chain on the Ford 4.6L Modular V8



How To Install Replace Timing Chain Tensioner and guides 4.6L Ford V8


 






Here are some videos. You'll need to use gasket maker at certain points of the timing cover, which i don't think the PDF covers. I think you have the service manual though, so it should be in there.

In car service of Timing Chain on the Ford 4.6L Modular V8



How To Install Replace Timing Chain Tensioner and guides 4.6L Ford V8



Thanks.yes the service manual should be here tomorrow but all this helps..seeing it is alot different from just reading it

Guess ill be pulling the oil pan to try and find the missing pieces, im told they are probably in the oil pick up by now!! :(
 






Well got the heads off today,so it definitely can be done with the motor in car..

I was exspecting to see the seats messed up or signs of them moving but i did not..all the guides are bad especially in #7,they all move around way more than ive ever seen..#7 had oil build up in the exhaust ports especially the right valve,they also moved the most..

also on almost every valve head edge and where it sits in the seat all looked ""wrinkled or bumpy"" definitely not like a smooth machine edge finish. .#7 right exhaust also appears it has been sitting/sealing off centered. Maybe the seat has moved or now is not flat or angled..

All the pistons and walls look good.smooth and still see hatching. .so lets hope my machinist says its the heads..

Also im slightly concerned about reusing the valves,i know a valve job will make the round and all that but im concerned about the shaft or rod part that goes in the guides. .as bad as they are moving around i think the valve may have wear or uneven measurement. .like some spots may be 8mm and some 7mm or 7.5 or 7.8 etc (just examples) and it wont fit the new guides perfectly. .i wanna ask if he is going to put them on a lathe and turn them all to one spec then make the guides to that spec..

If not ill be ordering a 1mm over sized set,which i really want but just cant justify it if stockers can be used/fixed..oversized wont really do much for this motor so thats not beneficial. .

I did order a summit under drive set for it..tons of tons of people report about 13hp and 3 mpg from them,i dont have a before mpg so just hoping it increases.the one on my 4.0 i loved and definitely helped with mpg.i couldn't tell hp because did so much at one time..

Going to do the servos this weekend and clean the intake ports,then start painting stuff..also going to put the new grill in

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-C2511

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Wow. Interesting finds. Looking forward to more!

Note with the under drive pulley kit, your ac wont be as good at idle and voltage will lower at idle.
 






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