13-54 transfer case removal?

[Dannyboy]

Well, I searched and didn't find exactly what I was looking for so if someone can direct me I will delete this, if not, I'll do a complete write up of a transfer case removal

I got my Chilton manual out for the first time in a long time, but I'm running into issues removing the transfer case on a 91 Ranger with a manual 13-54 Borg Warner Transfer case.

The issue-
stuck in 4x4 low, shift lever wont budge, truck makes some really bad clinking and clanking over about 3 mph. This issue started when I was making several attempts at a hill climb and I was bouncing pretty bad, lots of wheel spin and shifting back and forth from hi to low trying to get the proper wheel momentum.

I know, I should have given up when I didn't make it the first 6 times.....but...but my friends made it up so I was determined to get up too.

NOW the discovery, I found out 2 bolts holding the rear of the tranny were missing (I guess thats what happens when you take your friend's truck to Truckhaven). so this thing is pretty loose and there is a lot of movement on the transfer case.


So it looks pretty simple,
1. remove the front and rear drive shaft
2. remove the shift boot and knob in the cab
3. remove the speedo gear
3. Remove 5 bolts holding the transfer case to the transmission
4. drop case and open it up to find out what exactly I broke.

Issues I am having
1. Can't find an easy way to disconnect front drive shaft at t-case
2. Can't find an easy way to disconnect 5 bolts holding t-case to transmission


Is there an easy way to get at these bolts? Do I need to remove the tranny crossmember? That would suck as this truck has a Dana 44 with the radius arms connected to the transmission cross member.

Here's a pic of how I found the missing bolts.

 

[Rick]

Long extension with an impact swivel works wonders for spots like the 5 case bolts.

I don't remember what the stock front drive shaft attachment looks like, but on my Atlas you have to take out all of the U-joint strap bolts at the T-case with a combination wrench moving the driveshaft to just the right spot for each bolt.

 

[Rick]

So both of the upper tranny mount bolts were gone? If that's the case I would definitely check out the U-joints because they would have been getting hammered while you were attempting the climb. The whole driveline must have been bouncing all over the place.

 

[Burns]

Yes for the drive shaft bolts you have to kick it in and out of gear to move the drive shaft around while wrenching. I believe its either a 12 or 13 mm wrench.....

 

[Dannyboy]

ummm yup, I just went outside long enough to get greasy again and found what I think the clanking was. Not only was there marks all over the driveline, and I did notice the rear driveshaft looked awfully close the the gas tank, but the double cardigan joint was pretty much resting on the crossmember. It didn't get driven too long like this, but it did have some marks on there. Here is how it's sitting and I cannot move it side to side. Probably going to try to use a come-a-long first and realign this and see if I can get it to shift, because again, it looks next to impossible to get at those 5 bolts.

fyi, this pic is from the rear, you can identify the early bronco radius arm mounts and see the double cardigan joint.

maybe this makes sense why Kampy was selling this as a parts truck when we made it trail ready...or almost LOL. Just one my reason my tow rig is on 37s.

 

[Burns]

I use a regular wrench to get the 5 tcase bolts out. Its very tight but it is possible.

That is very close to how mine is. However front shaft is not that close to my crossmember.

My rear shaft has also been very close to my gas tank. I have two bad motor mounts. If i stand on the gas the transfer case will hit the underside of the body. My driveshaft has also rubbed the gas tank also

 

[Maniak]

way back when I had to replace the transmission govorner I had to pull the xfercase..

I only had to use a longish extension with an impact wrench to pull the bolts that hold the xfer case to the transmission.. nothing special... I don't even think I lowered the assembly (remove the transmission cross member and let everything hang from the engine mounts)..

~Mark

 

[HahnsB2]

A regular 13mm wrench works, may need to double up wrenches if they're super tight but there's room. A 12mm 12 point socket or box end wrench works on the driveshaft, there's room to do it without spinning it.

 

[410Fortune]

Agreed I use a 13mm box wrench to get the 5 t case bolts out

You can drop the t case with the front d shaft still attached to it

1/4" drive with 12 point socket will also work

 

[Dannyboy]

I got new bolts to put the transmission back into place, Once that gets situated I'm going to try to get after those 5 bolts. I was thinking the same thing about leaving the front driveshaft in place and sliding the enitre thing out, it may hinder some place to get at the bolts. Also it looks like a clearance issue between the lowest bolt and the transmission rubber mounting bushing, but I think with enough paitence it will get out.

Either way I'm determine now to pull this thing and break it in half because 1) I'm pretty certain the t-case is or was leaking 2) I've never pulled apart a t-case and I'm bored so I want to learn how to work on something new.

Any good threads on here about cracking the case in half and rebuilding?
As far as I know there is only one gear ratio in our t-cases is that true?

I know when Dustin bought this thing from Kampy it was mentioned that the t-case should be pulled and resealed, but I havne't seen much leaking, perhaps it's empty!!!

 

[Dannyboy]

okay, well, after putting the 2 transmission bolts back in and getting the front drive shaft to stop resting on the transmission crossmember I was able to get this pig out of low range and it shifts perfectly fine. I took it for a test drive and decided that no damage was done inside the t-case. I guess I'm going to need to save that task for a future project, maybe even on my truck.

 

[danerous dave]

have a 96 explorer.while driving all motion stopped.got it towed back home.changad the dash switch,but did nothing.can only get it in 4 low.will not go into 4 hi or 4 auto.will just make a chattering sound.has 4.0 with auto trans.can someone please help.