15k Oil Analysis Results | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

15k Oil Analysis Results

I agree as well, but I would rather have a good running engine even in a rust bucket then have engine problems in a rust bucket.

Also I have 240K miles on my 88 and the restoration is just gettting started my first engine went 180K and ran like a champ when I yanked it in favor of a 70K mile 93 OHV 4.0L, now the 4.0L has about 130K on it or so and I will be building another 4.0L to take its place. When this is complete my entire drivetrain will be less then 50K miles old. Getting as many miles out of all drivetrain components is important on a truck like mine......
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Originally posted by 410Fortune
I agree as well, but I would rather have a good running engine even in a rust bucket then have engine problems in a rust bucket.
No argument here. I always keep my vehicles in great condition but there is a point in the cost benefit analysis where the extra money spent is not going to provide any additional benefit. No matter what kind of oil you use the engine is going to wear and I'd rather rebuild/replace it at 150,000 miles if my X still looks good and I'm still into 4-wheeling.
 






long oil diatribe

Certainly, syn oil is not necessarily for everyone. There are many good choices of both dino and syn. What is justified for one person may not be justified for another person in a different situation. Luckily for us, its a free country and we can choose whatever oil we want to use.

Here are some reasons I like synthetics:

High Detergent - keeps the inside of the engine clean. If you do have to teardown the engine, you won't have as much sludge and varnish to deal with.

Flows at low temps - I go skiing in the winter so I see low temps a few times a year (0- 32F)

Protects at high temps - It is hot here in the summer (+100 F) and I tow a camping trailer

Less Engine Wear - Because of the high detergent, the syn oil keeps dirt suspended and away from the surfaces of the engine. Dirt is what wears your engine out by abrading the surfaces when it comes into contact. (Dirt is mostly Silica (SiO2), the reason why people are interested in Silicon (Si) levels in an oil analysis)

In my situation, I can come up with two reasons why I don't agree with the arguement "The rest of the vehicle will be worn out and in need of replacement":

Reason 1: Cars don't rust here. (Actually they do, but not nearly as fast as in say, Buffalo NY or Detroit MI) It is not uncommon to see 1950's and 60's vehicles still driving and looking good. I see them every day. Even 70's Suburus and Toyotas and Datsuns. I saw a Honda 600 last weekend. Yes the plastic and rubber parts will get old, but they can be replaced for cheaper than payments on a new car.

Reason 2: Smog Check. We have to get our vehicles smogged every two years. You are a lot more likely to pass smog with a tight, well maintained engine. If you fail smog, it can be a huge hassle, not to mention expensive. Also, you can't transfer title to someone else unless it passes smog. If it can't be repaired economically, about all you can do would be to donate it to a charity. So even if you think that you will be tired of the vehicle, it is still in your interest to keep the engine running well so you can trade for something else when the time comes. You may not have smog check yet, but it is just a matter of time.

I'm not saying that you can't pass smog by using dino, but my 89 Ranger (Mobil 1) still passed easily with 125k before I sold it. The second to the last time (over 110k) the smog tech couldn't believe it. "These things (Ranger) always fail."
 






Originally posted by dogfriend
Reason 2: Smog Check.

I agree, we have to get ours checked every year. $11. I think their trying to get rid of it. Anyway, they check CO2 and HydroCarbons. Good clean oil maintains a good running engine. Good lubrication prevents ring failure. Ring failure leads to poor compression and poor compression leads to poor combustion, and poor combustion leads to poor emisions.
 






So Al, what's your next step? Are you keeping it in or are you going to drain it?
 












D/F, yes I believe that good lubricators are very important for all the reasons you mentioned. But, in reality, I believe you would get the same "Long Term" results with Dino oil at 1/4 the expense. With regular oil changes, the engine wont have a "Lubrication Type Failure" (more likely-seals and gaskets,etc). Example; I know that I'll be pulling my engine soon too repair oil leaks at the intake and pan. :rolleyes:
 






My engine has never leaked a drop of oil. With conventional oil, I seriously doubt that I would be able yo get the gas mileage that I get.
 






1'500 to go till I reach 30k on oil !

Al:, I have not been using my truck that much over the last few months,but I'm pretty close to the 30k sample being sent in.
also,have you thought about getting the bypass setup ?,I really believe that if your going to extend the drain interval....the oil needs to be super filtered.


proper filtering is the key to long engine life. I'm at 51k on the odometer,I need to get to 52.5k ,I'll let you guy's know the results.
 






Yes, Bill, I want to go by pass but I can't figuer out where to mount it.
 






Do you have any space left between the a/c condensor and the front grille? Thats where I'm planning to mount the aux trans filter. (I don't like the location in the wheelwell)

I'm planning to make a bracket which will attach to the horizontal member of the radiator support (body) so that the filter will be in the area just inside the driver side frame rail.
 






Al :, you should have space just behind the radiator ?
I have a jacobs DIS,dual remote bypass setup,remote antenna for the radar detector,and an air horn setup.....
all behind the grill,that's the place where you should mount it.very easy to get at both filters and take samples.
 






Bill, how do you get to the filters to change them? What effect does it have on airflow into the radiator?

Thanks....
 






Al :, click on my photo gallery left of page below my name,and there is a pic of the dual setup,the filters are easily gotten to.
 






Featured Content

Back
Top