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1995 4r55e problems

nate2909

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Joined
January 24, 2016
Messages
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City, State
Nw GA
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 Ford Explorer 2wd
1995 explorer 4.0 4x4. Tranny has been rebuilt new reman torque converter different vb all solenoids ohm within spec. Still has a flare/surge and also slips from 1st to 2nd not bad but still there. What am in missing? I'm planning on adjusting the bands but will that correct it that much? You can drive it shifts from you st to 2nd with a lititle slip them from 2-3 it flares/surges and rpms just jump, let off the gas and it changes but then it acts like it downshifts back to 2nd. Haven't been able to get it to 4th/od because of it
 



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Yes band adjustment will change it. Its all about timing when one element is applied and getting it to stop in the time the next element needs applied. Did you put new bands in? If I get one that's fussy after a test drive I will only back off the adjuster 1 1/2 -1 3/4 instead of the 2 turns.
 






Yes all 3 are new. Could the vb I put it br some of the culprit also?
 






Very possible but really hard to say with confidence. Was it a reman VB ? Easiest to adjust bands and see what happens. Don't go changing a bunch at one time.
 






They said it was reman but I didn't check it over. I looked at it and it looked good all the valves moved that I could get to. All of the solenoid ohmed out in spec so I didn't worry to much about them but now I'm thinking I should had at least checked them with a battery to see if they clicked
 






I have very seldom seen solenoids that are bad on these units. I might suspect wrong separator plate or pressure loss from worn valves a retainer in the wrong position. It could even be servo bore wear on the intermediate apply piston?
 






Ok just came in from adjusting the bands. It made it a little better as long as you just take it easy. It would shift hard from 1-2 and shift ok from 2-3 but no od. If you put your foot in it it would shift hard 1-2 then act like it would shift into neutral. If I let off of the gas it would go back into 2nd. Either way rpms would be very high. If I shift it manually it would shift fine. I've thought about putting the original vb back in to maybe rule it out. I'm at a loss on this one. Thanks for the help
 






Glad to help. Just hard to diagnose over a keyboard.lol. What was wrong with the transmission originally to require rebuilding? Sometimes easier to know if you are chasing an old problem or something that was created after overhaul.
 






Whatall will cause it to jump into neutral at wot and shift fine under regular driving
 






I would venture a guess that it is a hydraulic leak be from low fluid level to worn pump to worn bores in the VB. Could also even be lazy electrical input from sensors. Only way to diagnose that is to have a data stream running and monitoring inputs and outputs. A neutral condition at WOT normally points to a leak in line pressure.
 






So I pulled the vb back out and noticed that it had the red ring epc and the tcc solenoid is different than the original that came out. How much could this effect/affect it?
 






I went ahead and changed them out. Oh and found out the original symptoms. He said he was driving up a hill and started coasting on the downside and when he pressed the pedal to go it wouldn't do anything but rev. Then it went into gear and he made it home. Let it cool and it would drive but very rough.
 






I received a new/different vb from the company and noticed that it had been updated some. Changed the tcc and epc. Test drive delayed 1-2 and hard when it shifted and 2-3 no o/d still doing the same as before. Could/can the transfer case cause this issue with it being the electronic shift transfer case
 






Find out the problem! The whole shift mechanism was toast. Replaced with another tc and it runs fine. Thanks for all the help
 






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