1996 Explorer Battery dies every few hours when off

[Jmilliken]

Hey! I just got a 1996 explorer and I'm having a really frustrating electrical issue that just popped up over the weekend. I was trying to fix my abs light - replaced rear sensor only electrical work (also both abs fuses were missing so I installed, then took back out). Also did front ball joints, struts, radiator coolant tank and hoses, charged ac, and belt tensioner.

I can jump it, and it's fine, but I turn it off, and it won't have enough power to start after a few hours. The ignition is loose, and I've played around with it, but it doesn't seem to make a difference and it was just like that before. I don't even have any ideas of where to start looking. All the interior stuff is off too...

 

[Jmilliken]

Oh. I also replaced the under hood light, and that seems to be shutting off when the hood closes....

 

[Turdle]

Welcome to the forum.

I did a quick search and found another 96 with the same issue, you might read through this and communicate your findings

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...amps-fuse-25-the-problem.449899/#post-3558914

 

[Jmilliken]

Well, I jumped it, drove it for a while. Battery was @ 12.7 when I turned it off. 50 minutes later, I dont have enough to crank it.

Ugh..,

 

[1998Exp]

Well, I jumped it, drove it for a while. Battery was @ 12.7 when I turned it off. 50 minutes later, I dont have enough to crank it.

Ugh..,

It won't hurt to check that your alternator is charging. Measure the voltage at the battery with engine running. You should see about 14V, with headlights on. Assuming your alternator is OK, you either have a huge parasitic draw or a dead battery. About 20 mins after turning ignition off and closing all doors hook the meter (in current measurement mode) in series with one of the battery terminals. Anything above 50mA is excessive, but to discharge a battery in an hour it should be a lot more than that. If all good so far, replace the battery (perhaps after having it load-tested at an auto parts store).

 

[koda2000]

Have the battery load tested and have the alternator output tested while you're at it. I can' imagine how a fully charged GOOD battery can go flat in 50 minutes.

If the battery and alternator test good, closely inspect your battery cables and terminal ends. If they're good (clean. tight and not corroded) get your starter tested.

 

[Jmilliken]

I did find that one of the plug pigtails on the alternator is broken and wasn't seated. I have checked the voltage with it idling several times. It has been between 13.5v and 14.54v. I'm gonna pull the alternator and battery and get them tested

 

[imp]

@Jmilliken The battery is charged and starts the vehicle. Shut down, stands several hours, and the battery has become discharged to the point that it won't start the eng. IF the battery is GOOD, something is eating up it's charge. It could be leaky diodes in the alternator, or something which remains "hot" when ignition key is off. ......If the battery will not HOLD CHARGE, it's useless to mess with it, and it will have to be replaced. Fact that alternator was putting out 14 or so volts just about rules it out as the trouble-maker.

What I would do, is charge that battery up full, one way or another, then disconnect one cable, leave it sit overnight, reconnect and see if it cranks. If it does, the trouble lies elsewhere. Get yourself a $5.00 Battery Hydrometer, and you can check the cells individually; if one cell is significantly lower than the other 5, it's pitch the battery time. imp

 

[Jmilliken]

An resolution on this.... The Battery crapped out.