1996 Ford Explorer Transmission Shift Solenoid Issues

[imp]

For p0761 it says a gear problem? Not a Solenoid problem? In the code database, it says solenoid C(3) issue. it goes into 4th gear, but it does not go into overdrive after that. Should I take it back to the transmission person and tell them? Because this is the same issue I had before and after Tranny rebuilds. In other threads I have been shown or found, the issues that match mine seem to be some thing wrong with electrical or need to adjust the OD band on outside of tranny, is that something that is also a possibility? Should I look into that? Also, another person who had same issue took out OD servo on opposite side of the OD band adjustment and cleaned it. I have already replaced the solenoid and want to knows if the band adjustment or servo cleaning is a direction to go as well. Thanks for the reply, it is appreciated.

Sorry for the delay answering, I apologize. I'm lost. Why are we getting into the 5R55E now, when we're dealing with the 4-speed, earlier transmission?

"it goes into 4th gear, but it does not go into overdrive after that" 4th. gear IS the overdrive gear, in 4R44E AND 4R55E transmission. You REPLACED the C Solenoid? Are you certain you replaced the correct one in the trans? They're alike, as I recall.

Have you described exactly how the transmission acts as you accelerate the vehicle in Drive under minimum throttle conditions to bring about the shifts? Watch the tach. for each shift point, 1-2 ought to be smooth, as should 2-3, but 3-4 is not happening at all? Transmission seems to stay in 3rd. gear? Doing this, keep in mind TCC may engage and look like another shift on the tach, but it's not. Don't mistake it for the 3-4 shift! After the tach settles down to it's lowest reading, vehicle moving at constant speed, about 50 mph, SLIGHT increase in throttle should show NO INCREASE in rpm, IF TCC is engaged. SLIGHT, or TCC will UNLOCK, and rpms jump up. When tach is finally steady, do rpms at 50 seem higher than they normally used to be? I would guess they should be around 1400 or so, in 4th. gear, TCC engaged. If it's engaged, and you see about 2000, you are likely in 3rd. gear. The tach can be a very helpful diagnostic tool, if you practice using it, and understand it.

Trans was rebuilt? Was valve body disassembled, all valves checked for freedom of movement, no metal particles caught anywhere?

JK is right on, about the diagnostic tool which simulates the actual transmission operation by "forcing" the appropriate solenoids ON and OFF, and seeing what functions properly or not. This COULD be done manually by having the vehicle up on stands, disconnecting only the appropriate solenoid connections at the PCM, leaving the pressure sol(s) connected, then grounding them one by one, while observing the speedometer reading, keeping eng. rpm fixed, not real high, maybe 1200. 4X4 HIGH would have to be engaged to defeat effects of ABS interfering, and I think recommending anything of that sort is beyond the scope of the forum. Your call. If I were to do it, though, I would measure the "pulled-in" coil current draw of each solenoid as it were energized. If "C" pulled higher current than the others, possibility exists it's plunger is binding due to mechanical reasons, the shift would not occur, or if it did, may be delayed as solenoid slowly pulled "home". IF anything like that were seen, you could rule out mechanical trouble beyond the hydraulic control system. imp

 

[Red_Lion]

Sorry for the delay answering, I apologize. I'm lost. Why are we getting into the 5R55E now, when we're dealing with the 4-speed, earlier transmission?

"it goes into 4th gear, but it does not go into overdrive after that" 4th. gear IS the overdrive gear, in 4R44E AND 4R55E transmission. You REPLACED the C Solenoid? Are you certain you replaced the correct one in the trans? They're alike, as I recall.

Have you described exactly how the transmission acts as you accelerate the vehicle in Drive under minimum throttle conditions to bring about the shifts? Watch the tach. for each shift point, 1-2 ought to be smooth, as should 2-3, but 3-4 is not happening at all? Transmission seems to stay in 3rd. gear? Doing this, keep in mind TCC may engage and look like another shift on the tach, but it's not. Don't mistake it for the 3-4 shift! After the tach settles down to it's lowest reading, vehicle moving at constant speed, about 50 mph, SLIGHT increase in throttle should show NO INCREASE in rpm, IF TCC is engaged. SLIGHT, or TCC will UNLOCK, and rpms jump up. When tach is finally steady, do rpms at 50 seem higher than they normally used to be? I would guess they should be around 1400 or so, in 4th. gear, TCC engaged. If it's engaged, and you see about 2000, you are likely in 3rd. gear. The tach can be a very helpful diagnostic tool, if you practice using it, and understand it.

Trans was rebuilt? Was valve body disassembled, all valves checked for freedom of movement, no metal particles caught anywhere?

JK is right on, about the diagnostic tool which simulates the actual transmission operation by "forcing" the appropriate solenoids ON and OFF, and seeing what functions properly or not. This COULD be done manually by having the vehicle up on stands, disconnecting only the appropriate solenoid connections at the PCM, leaving the pressure sol(s) connected, then grounding them one by one, while observing the speedometer reading, keeping eng. rpm fixed, not real high, maybe 1200. 4X4 HIGH would have to be engaged to defeat effects of ABS interfering, and I think recommending anything of that sort is beyond the scope of the forum. Your call. If I were to do it, though, I would measure the "pulled-in" coil current draw of each solenoid as it were energized. If "C" pulled higher current than the others, possibility exists it's plunger is binding due to mechanical reasons, the shift would not occur, or if it did, may be delayed as solenoid slowly pulled "home". IF anything like that were seen, you could rule out mechanical trouble beyond the hydraulic control system. imp

No worries on the delay, we are all busy. I just appreciate the help. I do not have the 5R55E tranny, I have the 4R55E tranny. I will double check what tranny I have for sure, to make sure it is not the 4R44E, because it might be that and will post in the morning. Ahhh, I have mistaken the TCC engaging as shift, I did not know that. My bad, thanks for clearing that up. OD does not work and RPM's are ridiculously high. It is supposed to shift again at 50-55mph, but mine does not. The car shifts smooths in 1-2 gear fine and 3rd as well, it doesn't go into 4th.

I did replaced the correct solenoid. All three solenoids take the same one and are interchangeable from what I am told, but I did locate the proper solenoid and replace. It just has to be placed in the correct spot that is failing, and I did that, a few times. Once for A when it failed less than a year ago, and then twice for Solenoid C. The tranny was rebuilt, and they triple checked it when I had the same issues and conclusion was electrical. Also, I have read about adjusting the OD band on the other side of the OD servo. Is that a path to attempt?

The last part you wrote is beyond me and my garage, I cannot lift my car to do that type of diagnostics. What other way can I do this? Again, thanks for the help!

 

[imp]

No worries on the delay, we are all busy. I just appreciate the help. I do not have the 5R55E tranny, I have the 4R55E tranny. I will double check what tranny I have for sure, to make sure it is not the 4R44E, because it might be that and will post in the morning. Ahhh, I have mistaken the TCC engaging as shift, I did not know that. My bad, thanks for clearing that up. OD does not work and RPM's are ridiculously high. It is supposed to shift again at 50-55mph, but mine does not. The car shifts smooths in 1-2 gear fine and 3rd as well, it doesn't go into 4th.

I did replaced the correct solenoid. All three solenoids take the same one and are interchangeable from what I am told, but I did locate the proper solenoid and replace. It just has to be placed in the correct spot that is failing, and I did that, a few times. Once for A when it failed less than a year ago, and then twice for Solenoid C. The tranny was rebuilt, and they triple checked it when I had the same issues and conclusion was electrical. Also, I have read about adjusting the OD band on the other side of the OD servo. Is that a path to attempt?

The last part you wrote is beyond me and my garage, I cannot lift my car to do that type of diagnostics. What other way can I do this? Again, thanks for the help!

I realized after posting, the easier way rather than trying to tell if TCC was engaged, would be to simply disconnect the wire feeding TCC solenoid, it should be possible to remove PCM connector, release the correct pin with it's wire attached, pull it out of the connector, then replace the PCM connector to the PCM.

I hear JK laughing at me by now, so let's change direction: If the Sol. C coil resistance checked OK (it did (?) ), we still do not know if the solenoid plunger is MOVING or not, OR if a clogged passage or stuck valve exists which activate due to plunger movement. So, best would be to energize the solenoid, and check it's current draw, it should be between 1 and 3 amps. If more, check draw of another sol. say, B or A, and if they are less than 3 amps, it's a good bet Sol. C is NOT MOVING. If that were found to be the case, I would disassemble and clean and free-up the valve body components, this all assuming the Solenoid being new means it is OK. Check that by energizing it with Solenoid module REMOVED from valve body. You should hear it click when energized, and current should then be below 3 amps, energized. If Sol. C current draw is acceptable it's time to go to the OD band adjustment check, find if band is broken, if adjustment screw advances inward about 1-2 turns with correct torque applied (tightened to that level), band is not broken; then the servo piston is next. imp

Edit: "Also, I have read about adjusting the OD band on the other side of the OD servo. Is that a path to attempt?" Yes, if Solenoid C is found to be moving and drawing correct amount of current.

(blue): The band is a circular steel springy strap which wraps around a clutch drum loosely, the ends of the band are at the bottom side of this circle, loosely attached to keep the band "hanging there" by parts called struts. The servo piston bears against one end of the band, from one side of the transmission case, the adjusting screw bears against the other end from the other side of the case. Piston movement inward tightens the band around the clutch drum, stopping it from spinning. In case you're not quite clear on picturing how this works.

If the band breaks, or the piston fails in some way (hole, binding, etc.), or the strut bearing against the adjustment screw manages to FALL OUT of place, the band can no longer function.

Note going back through thread, I apologize for the misleading description earlier of how the servo looks & operates. Pulled from old memory, it was for the old Ford Cruise-O-Matic trans. using a pivot arm to compress band.

 

[Red_Lion]

I realized after posting, the easier way rather than trying to tell if TCC was engaged, would be to simply disconnect the wire feeding TCC solenoid, it should be possible to remove PCM connector, release the correct pin with it's wire attached, pull it out of the connector, then replace the PCM connector to the PCM.

I hear JK laughing at me by now, so let's change direction: If the Sol. C coil resistance checked OK (it did (?) ), we still do not know if the solenoid plunger is MOVING or not, OR if a clogged passage or stuck valve exists which activate due to plunger movement. So, best would be to energize the solenoid, and check it's current draw, it should be between 1 and 3 amps. If more, check draw of another sol. say, B or A, and if they are less than 3 amps, it's a good bet Sol. C is NOT MOVING. If that were found to be the case, I would disassemble and clean and free-up the valve body components, this all assuming the Solenoid being new means it is OK. Check that by energizing it with Solenoid module REMOVED from valve body. You should hear it click when energized, and current should then be below 3 amps, energized. If Sol. C current draw is acceptable it's time to go to the OD band adjustment check, find if band is broken, if adjustment screw advances inward about 1-2 turns with correct torque applied (tightened to that level), band is not broken; then the servo piston is next. imp

Edit: "Also, I have read about adjusting the OD band on the other side of the OD servo. Is that a path to attempt?" Yes, if Solenoid C is found to be moving and drawing correct amount of current.

(blue): The band is a circular steel springy strap which wraps around a clutch drum loosely, the ends of the band are at the bottom side of this circle, loosely attached to keep the band "hanging there" by parts called struts. The servo piston bears against one end of the band, from one side of the transmission case, the adjusting screw bears against the other end from the other side of the case. Piston movement inward tightens the band around the clutch drum, stopping it from spinning. In case you're not quite clear on picturing how this works.

If the band breaks, or the piston fails in some way (hole, binding, etc.), or the strut bearing against the adjustment screw manages to FALL OUT of place, the band can no longer function.

Note going back through thread, I apologize for the misleading description earlier of how the servo looks & operates. Pulled from old memory, it was for the old Ford Cruise-O-Matic trans. using a pivot arm to compress band.

Thanks Imp, no worries, you have been a tremendous help and it is appreciated.

Ok, this is all interesting and a lot to take in LOL. First, I bought a new Solenoid C and installed, I did an amp test and it is 2.6, the old one was 2.7 I believe, within specs. Regarding your other testing, am I to test the solenoid C when removed from the valve body, and if that is the case, how do I test the current and give it power? I think I missed something there. Also, in regards to the OD servo, I can adjust it on the other side, but I will have to take the cover off the actual servo opposite of the OD adjustment band. How do I take this off? I see people using thin screwdrivers and odd tools, but no method on how to take it off, do I pry it off, turn it? And it is pressurized, correct? Do i have to empty the tran pan of fluid?

 

[imp]

Thanks Imp, no worries, you have been a tremendous help and it is appreciated.

Ok, this is all interesting and a lot to take in LOL. First, I bought a new Solenoid C and installed, I did an amp test and it is 2.6, the old one was 2.7 I believe, within specs. Regarding your other testing, am I to test the solenoid C when removed from the valve body, and if that is the case, how do I test the current and give it power? (1) I think I missed something there. Also, in regards to the OD servo, I can adjust it on the other side, (2) but I will have to take the cover off the actual servo opposite of the OD adjustment band. How do I take this off? I see people using thin screwdrivers and odd tools, but no method on how to take it off, do I pry it off, turn it? And it is pressurized, correct? 3 Do i have to empty the tran pan of fluid? 3

First: (1). The solenoid must have a terminal with detachable connector, or wire attached, perhaps 2, depending on how the ground connection is achieved. I can't remember exactly how my Gen 2 looked. 12 volts connected to the terminals (or wires) will energize the solenoid and make it "click". Current would have to be measured by connecting a D.C. ammeter in SERIES with one of the connections.
How did you measure current draw of the "old solenoid", which I assume was not inside the transmission?
(2). There is no adjustment on the servo piston, nor is it necessary to remove the cover, unless failure inside is suspected, or the transmission is being disassembled (obviously). There is NO OIL PRESSURE present in a transmission unless the engine is running.
(3). Checking the band is done externally of the case. No draining is needed unless access to the solenoids is needed. Below is a pic of the actual appearance of the intermediate band, which is APPLIED in 3rd. gear. imp

 

[1992fordgreen]

Hey Red_Lion, UPDATE time! Whatever happened? How did you fix the issue?

 

[Red_Lion]

Hey Red_Lion, UPDATE time! Whatever happened? How did you fix the issue?

Nothing yet. I had to work on another car, taking the trans axle off and replacing a few things so that consumed my time. I did get help from another use on how to take the cover off of the OD servo, but he just said use needle nose pliers. That didn't help much. I kind of need a visual on how to take it off. I appreciate his help, though. For me, i think it is an electrical issue, but want to check the OD servo just to be on the safe side. The person helping me said he took the cover off, took out the servo, cleaned it and smoother it down I think and it worked after that. That could be my problem. I mean, the tranny has been rebuilt twice. Also, when I take off the wire harness from the tranny, and put a new one on...the tranny works GREAT for a day or so...then back to the same ol same ol. I really wish I could just figure it out a 100% though.

 

[1992fordgreen]

Nothing yet. I had to work on another car, taking the trans axle off and replacing a few things so that consumed my time. I did get help from another use on how to take the cover off of the OD servo, but he just said use needle nose pliers. That didn't help much. I kind of need a visual on how to take it off. I appreciate his help, though. For me, i think it is an electrical issue, but want to check the OD servo just to be on the safe side. The person helping me said he took the cover off, took out the servo, cleaned it and smoother it down I think and it worked after that. That could be my problem. I mean, the tranny has been rebuilt twice. Also, when I take off the wire harness from the tranny, and put a new one on...the tranny works GREAT for a day or so...then back to the same ol same ol. I really wish I could just figure it out a 100% though.

We're both on the similair boat...just let us know what the problem was if you ever find out! Good luck!

 

[Red_Lion]

We're both on the similair boat...just let us know what the problem was if you ever find out! Good luck!

Update: It does not seem to be an electrical issue at all. Everything has been tested by me and electricians and they found no issues (well, I have some wire issues with my windshield fluid and wipers, but that is a separate thing.) in regards to the tranny. I was told that the Transfer Case Motor could be a culprit as well as the Transfer Case itself. I do not understand how the transfer motor could be the cause, since that is 4x4 only, right? Technically, if you removed the motor, 2WD still works, just not 4H or 4L. I asked on this forum if there have been any issues with this or if they are connected, but no responses. I really want to try to see if it the OD servo, but I have not found a good way to do that step by step. I know where it is, but do not know how to get that cover off.

Also, you state you are in a similar situation, have you found a fix yet? Also, does your 4x4 work? I do not think mine does anymore, and I am going to go test it in a little bit because I have not heard and clicking when I used ti before and I have noticed that back tires spin but front do nothing, so need to see if this is all connected somehow. Maybe it is the Transfer Case Motor or Transfer Case itself. You would think the last two transmission mechanics would have tested or looked at that, right?

 

[1992fordgreen]

Update: It does not seem to be an electrical issue at all. Everything has been tested by me and electricians and they found no issues (well, I have some wire issues with my windshield fluid and wipers, but that is a separate thing.) in regards to the tranny. I was told that the Transfer Case Motor could be a culprit as well as the Transfer Case itself. I do not understand how the transfer motor could be the cause, since that is 4x4 only, right? Technically, if you removed the motor, 2WD still works, just not 4H or 4L. I asked on this forum if there have been any issues with this or if they are connected, but no responses. I really want to try to see if it the OD servo, but I have not found a good way to do that step by step. I know where it is, but do not know how to get that cover off.

Also, you state you are in a similar situation, have you found a fix yet? Also, does your 4x4 work? I do not think mine does anymore, and I am going to go test it in a little bit because I have not heard and clicking when I used ti before and I have noticed that back tires spin but front do nothing, so need to see if this is all connected somehow. Maybe it is the Transfer Case Motor or Transfer Case itself. You would think the last two transmission mechanics would have tested or looked at that, right?

My issue has been resolved. It was because I didn't idle the Explorer while addint the ATF. Seems like it's a minor thing, but without the fluid, the trans was just running dry, thusly all of my crazy issues. I haven't tested 4X4.

Just make sure you're adding ATF whilst the engine is at idle.

 

[Red_Lion]

My issue has been resolved. It was because I didn't idle the Explorer while addint the ATF. Seems like it's a minor thing, but without the fluid, the trans was just running dry, thusly all of my crazy issues. I haven't tested 4X4.

Just make sure you're adding ATF whilst the engine is at idle.

You are saying that your shifting problems went away once you put transmission fluid in the SUV when it was in idle? I have never heard that, why would that make it work? So odd, but at least you have yours working. My 4x4 drive is not working, so I need to see if I need to rebuild my transfer case motor, or get a new one. I still do not know if that is an issue with the 2wd shifting issue, because it doesn't seem to be. Glad yours works, though. It feel good to get something working right again

 

[1992fordgreen]

You are saying that your shifting problems went away once you put transmission fluid in the SUV when it was in idle? I have never heard that, why would that make it work? So odd, but at least you have yours working. My 4x4 drive is not working, so I need to see if I need to rebuild my transfer case motor, or get a new one. I still do not know if that is an issue with the 2wd shifting issue, because it doesn't seem to be. Glad yours works, though. It feel good to get something working right again

Yes, it does feel good. If you haven't been doing this, I highly recommend you do.

When filling my trans with the engine on idle, the torque converter was pushing a lot of the ATF throughout the entire tranny which is what the tranny likes. Before, the trans was running dry, thusly, all of the codes and error lights.

This will help you better understand what the TC does.
"A torque converter is a fluid pump. Inside the donut-shaped housing is an impeller, which is driven by the engine. The impeller's vanes create centrifugal force by pumping transmission fluid toward the outside of housing. The other key component inside a torque converter is the stator. It's located between the impeller (on the input side) and the turbine (on the output side). The stator incorporates a one-way clutch, which has the ability to redirect the fluid flow inside the converter. By redirecting fluid flow, the converter multiplies the torque produced by the engine enough to propel a vehicle down the road. "