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Performance Upgrades - Maintenance - Modifications - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street Trucks. Covering the Explorer, ST, Sport, Lincoln Aviator, Sport Trac, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Aerostar. Featuring H.I. - Human Intelligence.
Even new tensioner s with no oil in the tensioner it's pretty easy to compress but once oil is in there holding the oil from draining is key
Basically the spring don't do **** in the first place
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Me and the Wife got home from lunch @ Outback and on our porch was a package delivered by USPS. Do they work on Sunday now? If it wasn't raining I might would try it out, but then again The Daytona race is on TV.
File photo below
^ That's definitely OE. May be too late, but the 00M12 kit is a better deal for $42 + shipping that includes tensioner, oil restrictor, tensioner gasket, and upper and lower gaskets for the Job 1 engine. How to: - Starting my 00M12 Installation
@swshawaii , it's not too late... I am currently looking at the next parts to purchase. I will look at those in a minute. I am currently looking at the TTY bolts and as usual sometimes something is not called by the correct name. Click on the link below and tell me if this is a camshaft sprocket bolt or the jackshaft bolt... Ford Explorer Ranger Mustang 4.0L Engine Camshaft Sprocket Hex Head Bolt OEM NEW | eBay ADDED-this may be the jackshaft bolt which I do not need
This evening I loosened up the camshaft holding tool slightly, and using a pair of ChannelLoks brought the camshaft back into time. I used the long arm Allen wrench placed in the slot on the back end of the camshaft to align it with the cylinder head. Then I re-tightened the holding tool, and torqued the sprocket retaining bolt to 63 foot pounds.
Afterwards I checked the index marks I made prior to disassembly, and confirmed that I had reset the chain one tooth, and also the index mark I made on the end of the camshaft & sprocket were perfectly aligned.
So I then removed the chains that I placed to immobilize the jackshaft sprocket, and the camshaft holding tool. Then I replaced the oil rail and torqued the three bolts to 150 inch pounds.
Then I did a little more cleaning on the engine block, timing cover, and thermostat housing.
Next I will put the valve cover, timing cover, and thermostat housing back on.
Sounds good! Saturday I removed the Thermostat housing to have easy access to the LH hydraulic Tensioner. It came off easy and that way I knew that I wouldn't crack it trying to remove the temp sensor or slip with a tool etc.
Today I got home late from work so I wasn't able to use the new pressure tester tool. BUT... As you well know that owning more than one Explorer or other vehicle the other ones always want or need attention. The '97 that I am driving, "Mo the 5.0" drivers window is stuck all of the way down and the flood is on its way. This will be the 3rd or 4th time that I have to remove the door panel, take out the speaker, loosen the 3 motor bolts and reach through the hole to move it off of the regulator a little to get it to move. Going out into the wind now. Added-The window is up now.
Keep up the good work...it sounds like you are close to be able to run it.
Wednesday 10:47 pm
FEDEX SMARTPOST ELLENWOOD, GA
Departed FedEx location
This was copied from Fedex tracking. My parts may already be in north Alabama. If I don't receive them late today I will get them by Friday
^ That's definitely OE. May be too late, but the 00M12 kit is a better deal for $42 + shipping that includes tensioner, oil restrictor, tensioner gasket, and upper and lower gaskets for the Job 1 engine. How to: - Starting my 00M12 Installation
swshawaii-I'm not having any luck finding the 00M12 kit online for an "online" purchase however I will call TASCA's 1-800 number in the morning to check availability. Thanks for the info.
That supplier appears to be somewhere in Europe. What U.S. state is TASCA located in? ATTN: I meant to mention this several days ago. When I removed the LH hydraulic tensioner, there was not any washer of any kind at all on it. I assumed there would be one like the RH rear tensioner normally has. If it suppose to then that would make me think that someone has worked on this engine before me. NOTE-I am continuing to accumulate parts for this repair however my yard is currently under water and the truck looks like it is in a lake. I'm glad that it is a "high profile" vehicle. ~~~~~~
Does your engine already have the updated hydraulic tensioner? The one with the elongated projection? Because AFAIK 1997 did not come from the factory with one, they were changed out later, by the dealership maybe a TSB...
That's interesting that you say that because there is a date written on the far passenger side of the radiator support something like 2-17-97 that I have no idea why it was put there. At first I thought oil change date. What was the year of the TSB? What are the two measurements of the elongated projection?
After all the horror stories I've read about aftermarket hydraulic tensioners including Cloyes I'd definitely stick with Ford OEM for these. OOM12 kit is small and should easily fit in a $8 small USPS flat rate box or padded envelope. Here's another well known dealer I've ordered directly from before. Call or message regarding stock availability BEFORE ordering.
Does your engine already have the updated hydraulic tensioner? The one with the elongated projection? Because AFAIK 1997 did not come from the factory with one, they were changed out later, by the dealership maybe a TSB...
That's interesting that you say that because there is a date written on the far passenger side of the radiator support something like 2-17-97 that I have no idea why it was put there. At first I thought oil change date. What was the year of the TSB? What are the two measurements of the elongated projection?
OK. According to the TSB which I didn't see a date on it, According to the part number on the "upgrade" parts start with XU.... , using the FoMoCo part numbering system would be Oct 1999 which is within the 2000 model year because new models come out Aug or Sept (approximately) fall the year before what it is. So that is what I am interpreting it to be.
I will only be able to tell if mine was upgraded is by the length of the elongated projection on the LH tensioner that "Doc" drdoom spoke of.
When I removed the LH hydraulic tensioner, there was not any washer of any kind at all on it. I assumed there would be one like the RH rear tensioner normally has. If it suppose to then that would make me think that someone has worked on this engine before me.
My buddy's sport 98 had a date on the core support marked in yellow paint marker I never did figure it out
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