1998 5.0 spark plug wires

[Nate_V8]

Hey all

I have a 98 explorer that I'm pretty sure has a misfire, feels rough under load sometimes. The plug wires are original except for 1 that was replaced just before I bought it 2 years ago with a standard brand plug wire. It has 142k km on it so I'm pretty sure the wires are causing the problem. I've replaced plugs, air filter, cleaned maf, new pcv but I didn't buy plug wires because of the price.

Now that is has an issue, I'm willing to buy new plug wires but on rockauto there are a few brands that have metal boots (from the pictures they show). Are the ford's still the best? What about walker/denso/airtex wells?

Thanks

 

[nameskreen]

My opinion is that Ford is the best, but they are very expensive. I used Duralast from Autozone with no problems

 

[Mbrooks420]

You can use the cheaper brands, but you will be replacing them every year or two.

 

[SWIGIN]

I like these more than the factory wires, the only wires I'll buy anymore.


Spark Plug Wire Set - Premium

 

[crunchie_frog]

Here in lies the issue with replacing parts. For me, I usually go with the cheapest replacement part, with some scrutiny (google searches and understanding of the failure that caused the need for replacement). I have 4 of these 5.0 AWD Explorer/Mountaineers and the only part I have had to replace more than once is the aftermarket fan speed control (with EATC). I have been running the $10.54 Federal Mogul/Xact set (on Rock Auto) for over 60,000 miles on one of the vehicles with no problems. All vehicles I have are at or near 200K miles and I have repaired (what it feels like), is nearly every part there is on these vehicles. So, having replaced dozens of parts (or near 100 or more) on these vehicles, the real pleasure is seeing them run "like new" with minimal costs and no worries about the "free labor", which is from is me (or you) ...

In my opinion, the most likely error(s) on plug wire replacement is not the wires themselves, it is the "mechanic" that installs them (bad connection, pulled boot from wires, improper heat shielding), not the "quality of the wire themselves.

So, pay the $100 for the factory wires, which you have a reasonable chance of damaging or installing incorrectly, or go for the $10.54 set and take your chances.

By the way, if you install the $10.54 set, reroute them EXACTLY as the original and reuse the . heat shields that are on the originals.

In any case, you cannot make a bad decision. Lots of folks here to help you out so you are I the right place.

 

[fastpakr]

Any chance you could post pictures of the correct routing?

 

[1998Exp]

Hey all

I have a 98 explorer that I'm pretty sure has a misfire, feels rough under load sometimes. The plug wires are original except for 1 that was replaced just before I bought it 2 years ago with a standard brand plug wire. It has 142k km on it so I'm pretty sure the wires are causing the problem. I've replaced plugs, air filter, cleaned maf, new pcv but I didn't buy plug wires because of the price.

Now that is has an issue, I'm willing to buy new plug wires but on rockauto there are a few brands that have metal boots (from the pictures they show). Are the ford's still the best? What about walker/denso/airtex wells?

Thanks

Regardless of the source of the "rough feeling', your wires are way overdue for replacement. A few years ago Motorcraft released 'universal' wires for a long list of vehicles, which replaces the dedicated ones. Their main advantage is that the insulator is silicone instead of the old rubber, which (hopefully) will make them last much longer. Because they are universal, they are slightly too long and not labeled with cylinder number. The ones that I bought were also missing the plastic clamps, which had to be transferred from the original set. Still, because of the vastly improved insulation, I think that they are worth the money (around $100). Make sure that whatever you buy has the heat shields for cylinders 3 and 4, where the wires run very close to the exhaust manifold.

 

[Nate_V8]

It's been awhile since I replaced 5.0 explorer wires ( I had a '97 years ago) and I can't remember if those metal shields come off easily or not.

So all I need is the heat shields on #3 and #4 and I can run any wire?

 

[SWIGIN]

No, my set for my 98 came Had 4 with heat shields. The tubular and iron manifolds use different wires.

The rear 2 cylinders on each side used the shields.

 

[Terkins]

By the way, if you install the $10.54 set, reroute them EXACTLY as the original and reuse the . heat shields that are on the originals.

I replaced the plug wires on my 2000 Explorer recently. The wire standoffs broke from age and I haven't replaced them. Can you comment on what are the effects of not having standoffs and/or effects of contact of the plug wires with various components? There's such a bird's nest of cables/hoses/tubes that I wasn't able to match the routing of the new wires with the old. It would help to know what to avoid if I were to replace the standoffs and/or re-route the wires.

 

[crunchie_frog]

Keep them away ftom the exhaust manifolds and steering column. You can use zip ties. At the same locations where the “standoffs” were.

 

[Nate_V8]

Well the last guy who replaced the spark wires didn't do his homework seeing as he bought the standard brand plugs without the shielding (you can get them with heat shields for a few bucks more) and didn't swap the shields from the original ford wires to new ones (he replaced #4 & #8 I confirmed today) so I'm wondering if they are cooked.

I know what you mean crunchie with mechanics installing parts and not following specs requested. Although I can't really say I've ever needed a mechanic to install plug wires or have ever had a problem with them other than some wires cooking after long tube header installs on a few mustangs lol.

I'm going to purchase the ford wires, can't go wrong with motorcraft parts and I have the cash. I will try to zip tie them as best I can as I won't be surprised if the "standoffs" are broken or missing. On a side note I thought they were called wire separators.

I'm assuming these are silicon as they don't specify material or size More Information for MOTORCRAFT WR6034

 

[Terkins]

Keep them away ftom the exhaust manifolds and steering column. You can use zip ties. At the same locations where the “standoffs” were.

That's helpful info. I'd thought to do the same (zip ties) but haven't yet. Nate_V8 raises the suggestion that the standoffs are for more than heat protection--calling them "wire separators". Is there a reason for keeping plug wires from touching each other (ie. radio interference?) Since newer wires are nearly all silicone encased, and silicone baking utensils withstand high oven temperatures without degredation, I'm assuming the heat from simply the valve covers isn't sufficient to be concerned with? I can readily understand, however, concern over (avoiding) the exhaust manifold contact!

 

[Terkins]

Keep them away ftom the exhaust manifolds and steering column. You can use zip ties. At the same locations where the “standoffs” were.

That's helpful info. I'd thought to do the same (zip ties) but haven't yet. Nate_V8 raises the suggestion that the standoffs are for more than heat protection--calling them "wire separators". Is there a reason for keeping plug wires from touching each other (ie. radio interference?) Since newer wires are nearly all silicone encased, and silicone baking utensils withstand high oven temperatures without degredation, I'm assuming the heat from simply the valve covers isn't sufficient to be concerned with? I can readily understand, however, concern over (avoiding) the exhaust manifold contact!

 

[Mbrooks420]

Wires aren’t supposed to cross over each other any more than they have to. If they do you can get noise (induction) on the wires that cross. It might not be as much of an issue as it once was, but I’m not sure about that.

 

[shucker1]

Wires aren’t supposed to cross over each other any more than they have to. If they do you can get noise (induction) on the wires that cross.

@Mbrooks420 is correct. If they have to cross it's best practice to cross at a 90 degree angle to each other.

Wires run in parallel and closely with each other may cause induction and misfires.

 

[CDW6212R]

Keep the #5 and #6 wires away from each other the most. Those run in order if you notice the firing order(13726548). It's harder to keep those apart since they start and end next to each other.

I like OEM plug wires, or something high end, like Magnecor, which I've got one set, ten years old. Be sure to use heat shields near the manifolds.

 

[Mbrooks420]

I think this is one place that quality wires help. They give a little more forgiveness in your routing.