1998 Eddie Bauer Exp Stuck in 4WH

[Mike789]

Hello
I have a 1998 Eddie Bauer which has sat for some months, and has had electrical issues in the recent past which include the windows stopped working, wipers stopped working, and more. While driving it now sounds as if it is stuck in 4WH. How do I fix this ?
Is there a solenoid which activates the 4WH ?
Can I disconnect a wire to return it to 2WH ?
Is it possible the solenoid is mechanically stuck on ?

 

[EB4X]

Hello
I have a 1998 Eddie Bauer which has sat for some months, and has had electrical issues in the recent past which include the windows stopped working, wipers stopped working, and more. While driving it now sounds as if it is stuck in 4WH. How do I fix this ?
Is there a solenoid which activates the 4WH ?
Can I disconnect a wire to return it to 2WH ?
Is it possible the solenoid is mechanically stuck on ?

Try engaging 4WD at switch and then move back to 2WD... and listen to hear if it's engaging and disengaging between the two.
Of course do not drive it on pavement if you think it's stuck / engaged...even for testing......can bind up front doing this.

 

[Justin_]

Are your 4HI and 4LO lights flashing? Sometimes the sensor on the 4WD shift motor fails and if that happens it will just disable itself. If that happens you can remove the 4WD shift motor on the back side of the diff with 3 screws and manually shift it back to 2WD while you are waiting on a replacement.

 

[96eb96]

Try engaging 4WD at switch and then move back to 2WD... and listen to hear if it's engaging and disengaging between the two.
Of course do not drive it on pavement if you think it's stuck / engaged...even for testing......can bind up front doing this.

I see you have a 95. Your 95 and my 96 have a 2wd mode.
97+ has Auto, 4wd, 4wdLO

4wd is commanded by the GEM computer (using the brown wire to the clutch), as are windows and wipers. It could be a failing GEM computer.

If you can disconnect the brown wire to the transfer case, it should revert back to standard 2wd (there is no 'true' 2wd on 97+). 95, 96 have a special front axle disconnect that actually breaks the right axle!

 

[Mike789]

I see you have a 95. Your 95 and my 96 have a 2wd mode.
97+ has Auto, 4wd, 4wdLO

4wd is commanded by the GEM computer (using the brown wire to the clutch), as are windows and wipers. It could be a failing GEM computer.

If you can disconnect the brown wire to the transfer case, it should revert back to standard 2wd (there is no 'true' 2wd on 97+). 95, 96 have a special front axle disconnect that actually breaks the right axle!

No dash lites re. to the 4wd work or are on.
The windows don't work though.
Sometimes the wipers don't work.
Is the GEM computer the one behind the radio ? How much would another be ?
I have read about the 'brown wire fix', and am wondering, rather than get another computer, why not add a switch. Do I have to remove the drivers seat to get at the brown wire ?

 

[96eb96]

No dash lites re. to the 4wd work or are on.
The windows don't work though.
Sometimes the wipers don't work.
Is the GEM computer the one behind the radio ? How much would another be ?
I have read about the 'brown wire fix', and am wondering, rather than get another computer, why not add a switch. Do I have to remove the drivers seat to get at the brown wire ?

I'm sure you can find a used GEM, but you should inspect the wiring harness too. Price? 25-100 bucks? Yes, behind the radio, on the drivers side. Has 3 large harnesses. Controls a ton of things.

So many functions could be a poorly connected harness. Also, A gem is specific to your truck, not that it needs programming, but the part number has to match. An AWD v8 truck don't have the controls for 4wd.

The brown wire is in the GEM harness. Yes, you can switch it on for full time 4wd. But you can't have "auto mode" that is controlled by software.

You may want to get Forscan to do some GEM diags.

 

[Mike789]

Thx (all) for the suggestions and info...I might try to dis/reconnect the connectors I have read abt under the hood, although I don't have much hope for that to fix things.
I don't care if the Auto works, in fact, Ithink it's a really dumb idea on Ford's part. I'd rather it be switchable. In theory, Auto is a really bad idea (like AWD) because one is 'supposed to' drive in 2WD until one gets stuck, then switch to 4WD. If one has Auto, or drives in 4WD then gets stuck, there are no more options, you're screwed. My 95 4Runner is old style and works.
So, I would like to unplug the wires going to the tranfers case, and see if it disconencts 4WH. Then I would like to put a switch in on the brown wire under the seat.
Are there more than 1 set of wires going to the transfer case or will it be obvious when I get under it what to unplug ?
Do I have to remove the drivers seat to get to the brown wire ?

 

[96eb96]

Thx (all) for the suggestions and info...I might try to dis/reconnect the connectors I have read abt under the hood, although I don't have much hope for that to fix things.
I don't care if the Auto works, in fact, Ithink it's a really dumb idea on Ford's part. I'd rather it be switchable. In theory, Auto is a really bad idea (like AWD) because one is 'supposed to' drive in 2WD until one gets stuck, then switch to 4WD. If one has Auto, or drives in 4WD then gets stuck, there are no more options, you're screwed. My 95 4Runner is old style and works.
So, I would like to unplug the wires going to the tranfers case, and see if it disconencts 4WH. Then I would like to put a switch in on the brown wire under the seat.
Are there more than 1 set of wires going to the transfer case or will it be obvious when I get under it what to unplug ?
Do I have to remove the drivers seat to get to the brown wire ?

The wiring that is faulty would actually be behind the dash, to the left of the Radio. Not the car computer.

No need to remove the drivers seat. Remove the radio, There will be a computer with 3 harnesses attached on the left.

One wire will be the brown wire. I can give a wiring diagram if you need. Once you do that you can easily wire it to be on all time. That is exactly what happens in 4x4 hi or low. You may want to use a relay. You could probably do it off the 4x4 relay too, it is a bit behind the gem on the left side (kinda under the level of the radio).

 

[Mike789]

Thx.
So you're saying getting to the BrownWire by removing the radio is easier than under the seat ? I have not done this before, defer to others and their experience, but do not know how to get the radio out, also it seems (to me the unexperienced it might be easier to remove the F seat, seems there might be a lot more room to work under the seat 9especially if it's out) than in the dash with the radio out. But this is all speculation I should say ! If i do the fix under the seat I can put the switch there too. I have read that a switch that will handle 10A will do it, have not read that a relay is needed. Would Lowes have this stuff ?
Currently, afaict, the 4WH is stuck on, so priority is to get it back to 2WH 1st. I have other related threads too...I don't really have to have 4wd at the moment, just get it out of 4wh in case it might damage something.

 

[96eb96]

Thx.
So you're saying getting to the BrownWire by removing the radio is easier than under the seat ? I have not done this before, defer to others and their experience, but do not know how to get the radio out, also it seems (to me the unexperienced it might be easier to remove the F seat, seems there might be a lot more room to work under the seat 9especially if it's out) than in the dash with the radio out. But this is all speculation I should say ! If i do the fix under the seat I can put the switch there too. I have read that a switch that will handle 10A will do it, have not read that a relay is needed. Would Lowes have this stuff ?
Currently, afaict, the 4WH is stuck on, so priority is to get it back to 2WH 1st. I have other related threads too...I don't really have to have 4wd at the moment, just get it out of 4wh in case it might damage something.

I don't know where the wire is under the seat, but if you do, go ahead!. Anywhere along the wire is fine. I guess you can try cutting the wire first? That will kill power to the 4wd clutch. A heavy duty switch can work too.

Lowes or Autozone/Oreilly/Advance should have what you need. Don't drive in 4wd high on dry pavement! The axles will be fighting each other!

 

[410Fortune]

Take the shift motor off the back of the transfer case and see what position it is in
Check all fuses for GEM module and 4x4 controls

 

[Mike789]

Take the shift motor off the back of the transfer case and see what position it is in
Check all fuses for GEM module and 4x4 controls

Shift motor ? I have read, that there is a cover with 3 screws on the TC that can be taken off to shift manually.
Re the brown wire under the seat, that info is in the Brown Wire Fix thread, although, the pic of the seat is missing, not sure why.
Re the GEM module, a year ago we went thru all the fuses, replaced 1 IIRC, but IMHO the GEM is toast so I will be making things, like 4wh, as manual as possible.
Re driving in 4WH on dry pavement, why would they be fighting each other ? As long as the tires are the same size & brand, there shoudl be very little difference IMHO. I started another thread re the theory of 4wh operation and what can be run and what shouldn't, and what might break and why, but it seems to me logical that as long as I'm not running circles all day long, nothing should break.

 

[96eb96]

Shift motor ? I have read, that there is a cover with 3 screws on the TC that can be taken off to shift manually.
Re the brown wire under the seat, that info is in the Brown Wire Fix thread, although, the pic of the seat is missing, not sure why.
Re the GEM module, a year ago we went thru all the fuses, replaced 1 IIRC, but IMHO the GEM is toast so I will be making things, like 4wh, as manual as possible.
Re driving in 4WH on dry pavement, why would they be fighting each other ? As long as the tires are the same size & brand, there shoudl be very little difference IMHO. I started another thread re the theory of 4wh operation and what can be run and what shouldn't, and what might break and why, but it seems to me logical that as long as I'm not running circles all day long, nothing should break.

If the axles are locked together, when you make turns they are spinning at different speeds. Making right and left turns is more than enough to cause problems. Something has to give to make up the speed difference. Either the tire traction on the pavement (wheel gives a bit) or the clutch in your transfer case. The halfshafts are being stressed too.

Eventually the TC will break. These aren't the strongest transfer cases. One problem they have is the case ovals out where the axles go in. This is a good way to speed up that process. When that happens, you get noise, eventually it could even lock up permanantly.

That is why there is so much effort to design a good transfer case.

It is like driving with a locked rear diff all the time.

 

[410Fortune]

you do not remove the cover, you remove the shift motor, then you can turn the t case manually with a pair of plyers
There are 3ea 10mm bolts holding the shift motor in place, but you will probably have to remove the balance weight first,. 4ea 13mm bolts......

 

[96eb96]

you do not remove the cover, you remove the shift motor, then you can turn the t case manually with a pair of plyers
There are 3ea 10mm bolts holding the shift motor in place, but you will probably have to remove the balance weight first,. 4ea 13mm bolts......

Balance weight don't have to come off on mine. Just 3 screws. If you shift the t/c though, the motor will be in an odd position, not sure how it would go back.

 

[410Fortune]

by fixing the motor?? Then you put the transfer case back into 2wd and the motor into 2wd and bolt it back on......

The motor does not need to be mounted to the transfer case to test the motor shifting, it will move while hanging in the air from the wiring harness
You can only bolt the t case shift motor to the t case with the motor and t case in the same position

BUT if you need 2wd or 4wd and the shift motor is not working, then remove it and shift the t case with plyers........ this is for DIAGNOSTICS purposes.....

 

[Mike789]

Ok, so for a newbie like me, plus I might have a slight case of info overload, 1st what I want to do is get it out of the 4WH I think it's stuck in. Can I do this by unplugging the wires ? And if that doesn't work ? Then do I take the shidt motor off and I can shoft it with pliars into 2WH ?

Where exactly is the shift motor in relation to the car, rear side of the TC ? Now that I have a handle on the alternator prob, I will get under the Exp soon and do what I can to at least get it into 2WH. I may put a switch on the brown wire too later.

 

[410Fortune]

DUDE first thing to do is REMOVE the shift motor and see what position the t case is in.... if you think it is stuck in 4hi then two questions:

1. is the 4high light on in the instrument cluster?
2. with the front wheels off the ground can you spin the front driveshaft by hand?

Shift motor is on the back of the transfer case to the drivers side of the rear driveshaft... you cannot miss it

 

[Mike789]

No, the 4WH is not on, but with all the other GEM things that don't work 1/2 the time, I'm not surprised.

I have read a lot of things in the past week or 2 re the Exp's 4wd system. Hopefully one last set of questions

The 'brown wire' - does that actuate the "shift motor" which pulls or pushes the "shift lever" (someone called it that IIRC) which either engages or disengages the TC clutch ?

Is the "shift lever" spring loaded, ie, w/o juice applied will it fall out of 4WD, which means the clutch is disengaged, or does that lever have to be moved one way or the other ? Said another way, can I disconenct the wires which will allow the motor-spring to disengage the clutch, sort of like a starter solenoid ? If so, this might mean that if disconnect the wires, and it still seems to be stuck in 4WD, then Ihave to take the shift-motor off and shift it out of 4WD manually. It appears now that I'm re-reading previous replies, thatthe shift-motor does not work like a starter-motor, in that it is not spring loaded, so it will not shift back to 2WD if the juice it cut off.

Can I run the truck w/o the shift-motor installed, or is there stuff exposed that needs to at least be covered by the shift-motor ?

Sorry for all the questions b4 I even get it off the ground but because of where the Exp is, I have to use a friend's carport and jack, to get the Exp in the air, so I can't be doing this too many times. I also want to know exactly what I'm doing b4 I do it.

 

[Mbrooks420]

The brown wire powers the electromagnetic ball ramp clutch that gives the automatic 4wd function.

As expertly advised the next step is to yank the shift motor. You might have other problems not related to the transfer case you are blindly chasing.