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1st Gen 4.0L camm

rocklaurence

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I've done a search and didn't find much relative to a performance cam.. With Vanir not supporting the V6 anymore, where do I go to get everything I need? I found a cam (Comp-cams) but they couldn't (Email) give me info. on the adjustable push rods and valve lash. Am I correct in saying that the new cam will need new rods? I belive I read a loooong time ago about problems involved with a new cam and the OEM rods binding--yes? :redexp:
 



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vanir no longer does the 4.0? whats the deal with that?
 






Vanir bailed on us a while ago.

Vanir was just a distributor, you can still get the pushrods, lifters, etc for a rebuild and cam swap. Contact Doug904 for his help. He's really busy right now, but he knows where to get all the stuff.
 






Look up at the post by chad, I bumped it up for you.
 






Yes the cam will need new push rods

You can get the pushrods from Smith Bros - pushrods.net, but you have to measure them to get the correct length. They also sell adjustables, but I wouldnt use them as a permanent solution. Get an adjustable and use it to measure, then order a set made to the correct length- It worked well for me. If you call Smith Bros they will know all of the info for the 4.0 (ends, tube etc) you just need to supply the length.

Doug904 may have more info and parts available.

I got the comp cam from Summit Racing. You could also try CamCraft for a cam, they have new billets available now I think. If I would have known about them before I got the comp cam I may have used them.

Doug904 is a good source for most everything related to the 4.0. Not any others around, you need to do the research and runnjing around see whats available. Thats what I did- a part here, a part there etc.
 






Steve, did you get the RV camm or the Hotter one? The RV doesnt seem like its worth the effort (moves power up approx.200RPM) while the other performs above 2400RPM. I'll be adding and intake tube, Chip, and mild heads with performance valve job. I've noticed that my Explorer is operating above 2400 RPM until the cnverter locks up. So, I'm thinking the higher lift cam would be best--you think?
 






Well, I like the combo Im running- I have 31's and 4.10 gears. When I rebuilt the engine I bored it 30 over and added the 410 Comp Cam, 70 mm maf, 63 mm TB , Borla headers, the heads were port matched, and cleaned up a bit- not real porting, the combustion chambers had the sharp edges removed, intakes(upper and lower) were gasket matched and Im running an Apten chip.

The bottom end feels really strong, a concern if you wheel a lot. But rev it over 2500 rpms and it will really pull well to 4500 or so. I dont normally see much above 4000 rpm anyway the way I drive. I do need to adjust the shift points on my trans- it shifts way too early. With my tires and gears my combo seems to work fine. Im worried Ill see some losses when I step to 33s , so I may have to gear down some more.

With the 37s and "only" 4.56s Im thinking that the 422 cam wont give you enough lower end. Its not just the lift, but the bigger cam has a bit more duration which bleeds off low end power. You have to remember that its not only your cruising rpm you need to worry about, its also the power that gets you there. With lower gears you can err on the side of a bigger cam, but with 37s the 4.56s you run are canceled out in my mind . If you had 33s with the 4.56s then I could see running the 422, but the bigger tires may keep the rpm range too low for you. I would suggest the 410 cam, with money spent on the heads- port work inthe bowl area, and a complete polish job to ward off detonation with the bigger tires.
The bigger 422 cam most likely would like more compression which may help pick up any losses on the bottom end. One Idea to run the larger 422 cam is to use the late model heads to increase static compression. This may be a good option, but I would definately have the heads polished since the potential for detonation may be increased. This is one idea I played with when I was rebuilding- but shelved basically because the machinist did work on my old heads before I could make a decision. It still sounds like a good idea, maybe Doug would have some real world input.

Now with all that said Ive never run the 422 cam so I dont know how much bottom end it will lose, but the guidance I got when I was looking fior cams was the 410 moved the torque up about 300rpm, and the 422 another 300-400 rpm - so 600-700 total on an engine that doesnt see 5000 very often seemed like a lot to me.

If you go with the rv cam, and want to step up later you can get the 1.6 roller rockers that Doug904 sells which should increase the lift by about 8 percent, and add a few degrees (4 or 5 maybe) of duration.
 






WOW Steve, I've never seen such a great explanation of cam selection accoding to tire size. To tell you the truth I don't do enough off-roading to realize the effects but I do see your point. That is very well put. I don't really have alot to offer aside from his post, I completly agree with having a lower gear set will raise your driving rpm's and power range but with huge tires it should bring you back down a good bit. Aside form your really looking for torque more then upper end hp with most any 4x4 anyway so to most of my customers I suggest the 410 cam. The 410 cam is the smaller of the two but it still offers a great performance gain over the stock shaft and it doesn't require the attension that the 422 does with computer tuning. I'm not saying that you cannot put a 422 cam in and drive away happy but to utilize the full power you really need a custom dyno tuned chip. And yes the 410 favors the lower end more so then the 422.

AS for the roller rockers I sell... They are an increased ratio size 1.6 compared to a 1.46, and they do have a roller tip. They also are adjustable. The major thing is you really have to know what your doing to set them up and they won't really give you any hp but more so will free up what you already have. They allow the engine to rev or spin up a bit faster, not like a 2 stroke by no means but a bit. They are expensive and difficult to set up so unless you just are all out of ideas for performance or are trying to squeeze every last bit out of your 4.0 then you can spend your money better elsewhere.

I'm sorry I havn't gotten a chance to respond quicker to your post, I work a full time job other then my small 4.0 performance side job. Above that I have my own truck that I'm trying to get ready for this season's opener in Febuary, a 88 ranger GT with a fully built 4.0 SOHC that I'm trying to get up and running and a firend with a 3.0 that we're installing another M90 supercharger on. To say the least I'm kinda busy most of the time. I find that the mods on this board are VERY informative and can usually give out any 4.0 advise that the normal guys is looking for. Even more most of the time. I'm just trying to keep up to date with some new SOHC perfomance idea's and keeping the old OHV alive while doing so.

Later Doug904.
 






Doug, is there an Email or phone # in order to purchase your services related to the 4.0L. I know your busy but are you able to provide any parts (i.e; cam, rods, mild heads)? I'd like to work with one supplier relative to the cam and setting it up.
 






I'm trying to locate a low milage motor as the base for the rebuild. I'm thinking that I wont have to replace any worn parts and will only need to install the cam and have the heads worked. I found a 96' with 71K for $650. Is this a good price?
 






Yes, $650 is a average to good price on a 96 4.0.

Doug904
 






Steve, It looks like I'm moving in the same direction as you on the cam (410). During the install, did you check "Valve Lash"? My understanding is that if the rocker is too tight that you use shims not make up the difference. Did you encounter and needed adjmnts after getting the new rods and did all the valves/rods come out the same? I dont know, maybe I'm a little peranoid, but I've never installed a cam w/o adjustable rockers for setting up Lash. Should I be concerned? :redexp: :confused:
 






Rocky - I have Sven's book on rebuilding the 60 degree V6 - call me (239)768-0622 - it's yours if you need it. I am gonna shoe-horn a V8 into Tramp this summer.

BTW - Very helpful book...

J
 






Rocky,

Yep, I measured and recorded the preload, and then had pushrods made to an average length with preload. If you have built engines and can use a caliper I dont think you should have a problem. Its just a bit of measuring - go slow double check and I would think you would be OK. With the custom pushrods you dont need to shim the stands or have them milled.

The custom pushrods are the adjustment rather than the rockers. Since the rockers are not adjustable- you adjust the push rods. You will need to measure them after you install your heads and cam. The "lash" in a hydraulic cam is the lifter preload- should be .045-.060. I think Crane cams has a good page on measuring for pushrods-Ill look for a link.
Doug may have an off the shelf length pushrod length for the cam, but with the new cam, any material removed from the heads and/or block, and the condition of the rockers (both tips and cup) there are too many variables to account for with a single part number.
 






checking preload

OK I found the link-

http://www.compcams.com/catalog/020.html

This gets you to page 20 of the Comp Cams catalog. If you get the comp cams 410 this is the instruction sheet. You can get other pages which has the complete instructions to look over.

Another way to check is to get a measuring pushrod from Smith Bros and then adjust it to length, test and remeasure to be sure. This is what I did - I think the rod cost 15.00 or so and they had it to me in a few days. I could then measure over the ends(since the checking and the final had the same ends) and have the rods made up from those measurements.

I think if I were to do it again I would use 5/16 inch tube and the ball ends rather than than the 3/8 inch tube and rounded ends- the rods are short enough that the 5/16 shouldnt be a problem - esp since the 4.0 isnt a rev monster. The smaller rods may lighten the valve train up a bit - most likely not noticable though. Either 3/8 or 5/16 tubular rods are going to be much lighter than the solid stock push rods.
 






Jon, I've got the book--Thanks. I need to start reading instead of asking sooo many questions:D
Steve, thanks for the input and I'll look at those instructions.:redexp:
 






Steve/Doug, I've gotten to the place where I can install the cam. However, The Chilten's manual calls for "CamLube" when installing the cam, while the Ford manual say to use 50W oil. I also was told to use oil by the group that I purchased the cam from. What's the deal?:rolleyes:
Update on the motor is:
1.Building 96 w/70K miles
2.Heads being P/P with 3 angle valve job
3.410 cam, springs, retainers
4.Borla Headers
5.BBK T/B
6.SuperChip
7. Ifab intake tube

Another question:
Is a standard motor puller going to clear my front end inorder to get the motor out? I plan on pulling the front wheels but will that be enough?:redexp:
 






OK, does anyone (other & Doug/Steve) have an input? Also, the shop is telling me that, if the push rods end up being too long after everything is milled and cam installed that I can shim the pedistals to make up the difference. Has anyone done this and is it acceptable as a practice or should I buy shorter rods?:rolleyes:
 






Chiltons is wrong- motor oil is fine. I used some 10-30 mixed with some STP oil treatment as an assembly lube. The 4.0 lifters are roller units and are not subject to the same break in problems that flat tappets are.

I used a standard lift to get mine out, but I had the air out of my tires(31's) to lower it a bit - mainly to ease working in the engine bay. With larger tires and or more lift you may need to lower the truck a bit

I dont know about the shimming, I would think not though- the rocker stands have an oil passage that feeds the rockers. But I really dont know- I didnt do it that way - I went with the custom push rods. I would ask them how the oil passage would still function, and if you are adding a potential leak point.
 



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Thanks Steve, I'm going to be installing the cam soon. In the mean time, I've been cleaning parts and painting while I wait for the heads to be finished and the rest of the parts to arrive. The block, heads, timing cover are silver, while the valve covers are Ford blue. Everything else is aluminum and will be left natural. I hope to be installing it around the 14 of March (got-a do it around vaction timing).:D
Thanks again for the input and any other responses are welcome.:redexp:
 






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