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1st Gen explorers gas mileage and how to increase!

swimmernate

Member
Joined
January 28, 2012
Messages
14
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City, State
Idaho
Year, Model & Trim Level
1991 Explorer XLT
Ok so here's the deal- I live in Idaho and just got hired on as a driver in the oil fields in North Dakota. I've been unemployed for the past 5 months so this is good news. I have wife and kids in Idaho and they're staying there so I will be driving back and forth, it's about 830-ish miles. Because of unemployment I am trying to do this as cost-effective as possible.

My gas gauge is broken and has never worked. I know that in town if I fill my tank up with gas and I use 13 mpg then I can get about 250 miles on a full tank before I will have to fill up again. This will be fixed...sometime...

But I also know that if I add a can of [http://www.walmart.com/ip/B-12-Chem...System-and-Injector-Cleaner/16817404]Berryman
Code:
 B-12 Chemtool Carburetor, Fuel System, and Injector Cleaner
then I know that I could get about 16 mpg in town. I don't add it to every tank, in fact have probably only used it 5 times in the past few years. But I know that on the highway without anything I get 15-18 mpg and with Berryman I can get 20 or better.

So for my first trip that was on Saturday 24th I added a can of Berryman's to my tank. I pretty much fill up after 150 or so miles, I didn't go more then 200 miles without topping off. I have no idea where I'll run into construction or if I'll get stuck in the middle of nowhere. I noticed I first got 22 mpg, then 20 mpg then 18 mpg. I figured the Barrymans was running out and that was expected. But then it struck me. I needed to find out what fuel addative was going to give me the best MPG and I started to take notes to keep this as scientific as possible. Now realize, I am not an engineer or am I a professional at...gas...gauging....? But this is the best that I have, so far.

MPH Miles Driven Gas taken MPG What's added
1. 75 143.3 9.4 15.2 Nothing
2. 65-75 105.3 5.2 20.23 Nothing

So yeah a few things. First, I should have started this at the beginning but oh well. Second, I think I didn't top off enough with my 1st fill. Either I didn't top off or the little bit of driving at 65 really did save me 5 mpg. Most believable answer is that I didn't top off.

I work 22 days on, I get 8 days off but every time I drive back and forth I will update with new results and include everything I can. (Individual results may vary, contact your local doctor to see if this is the right method for you) (I have to include the fine print) My plan is to get another can of Berrymans to get those results but also test other fuel additives as well. Probably the ones that say it's safe to add to each fuel tank, that are cost effective, whatnot.

Eventually (because I plan to work here for 3-4 years) I want to do things like add air intake, exhaust, and other performance enhancing parts to my car and see if those add any mpg to my car. The wife will believe I'm adding an exhaust to increase mpg but the secondary reason is because it'll add power as well (I hope).

If no one reads this then fine, so be it. I'm going to keep updating and posting more for my own info and money saving reasons. If ANYONE has any other ideas or theories to increase gas mileage then PLEASE LET ME KNOW. I will test them! If I can afford it. Internet here sucks but I will keep an eye on this thread as much as possible. Thanks!
 



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Getting the best mileage out of a vehicle comes down to basic maintenance, after that, then you can work on the little things that might increase it ever so slightly.

One of the first things to check is the air pressure in the tires. Check the sidewall of the tires for the max air pressure they can handle, and figure out what works best. The door sticker of Explorers says 26 psi, but after the Firestone fiasco, that was exposed as a low number - it's better to try something like 28-32 psi, or even more if you have LT tires that handle 44-50 psi. You can also inflate the front tires more than the rear due to the engine weight. Air pressure makes the biggest difference in MPG - just being 1-2 psi under whatever is optimal uses more gas. The tires themselves make a difference too, road or all-season tires will usually have less rolling resistance and use less fuel on pavement than all-terrain and mud tires.

After that you should make sure basic maintenance items are in order, everything from good spark plugs (preferably Motorcraft) and wires, fluids including oil, ATF, power steering, coolant, and gear oil are all good. Using oil thicker than 5W-30 affects mileage, and using something like synthetic 75W-90 gear oil can give better mileage than 80W-140, but use what is recommended for the axle.

Other basic stuff includes having a clean air filter, clear mass airflow sensor, clean/working oxygen sensors, and an intake and exhaust system that are in good shape. There are lots of other small things you can do that keep the Explorer in top shape and running it's best for the most mileage, be sure to check out the other threads here on high-mileage Explorers to get ideas and try them out.
 






If you're driving that many miles get a car. If you NEED a truck, get a 4 cyl ranger with a stick. Go to ecomodder.com and learn how to drive efficiently.
 






1 - your X needs to be running well & tuned up.
2 - driver slower. This will yield the best results rather then trying to throw $ at it. n sudden rpm spurts, no 80. Remember it's a old X your not going to get a whole lot of MPG's out of it.

Also your 91 has slightly less power then the 93+ so your already at a disadvantage. And it doesn't have any of the emissions things that sometimes do help with gas mileage.
 






I did forget to mention a few things. I was using the wireless internet at the college and I was getting kicked out (the building was closing) so I had to hurry. I had the oil changed less then 1,000 miles ago (end of April). Well now it's almost 2,000 miles away. Also before I left town I had the tires checked and they are inflated to manufacture specs.

Other maintenance items will come as I can get them. As I said above, I was out of work from December to May. Unemployment barley paid enough to take care of me and my family, so I did only the basic, few things I could. As for me getting a car instead of my Explorer, well, see above. But nevermind that, I love my Explorer. It is a trustworthy vehicle and I'm going to drive it. And also I've been hearing about the winters in North Dakota. -40 degrees, signs everywhere that say "Emergency snow route, don't park here if snow is deeper then 3 feet" and stories of blizzards coming from no where and taking over. Fact is that I might actually need my trusty 4 wheel drive Explorer and I will make sure when that happens I'll be ready for it.

The speeds I had listed of 75 mph are what the speed limit was. In Montana the highway speeds are 75 mph but I didn't drive faster then that. I'm sure driving at 65 or even 55 will save me gas but when it comes down to it, I want to make it home to see my family while I can.

I realize, everyone, that I'm not going to get a bunch of MPG out of my vehicle. I know that it's more of a truck and less of a car. But this is what I have right now like it or not. I have no choice as to what I drive. Gas mileage is important to everyone so I'm going to use my situation for everyone's benefit. If I find a fuel addative that can be added to every gas tank and is safe but may only gain 2 mpg then it's worth it. 20 gallon tank (rounded off because I'm not an engineer). 2 miles more per gallon, 40 miles. Gallon of gas $3.68 (if your lucky). Cost of additive, $3-$4. You get my drift. Someone can use my dis-fortune to their advantage.
 






Like I said, you want to inflate the tires to higher than the stock specs, since stock specs were 26 psi and that is actually low. You will get better mileage and more even tire wear with higher inflation pressure in the 28-35 psi range.

Fuel additives aren't necessary if you use top tier or brand name gas that already has cleaning additives in it. In fact, if you use additional cleaning additives on top of additives that are in the gas you buy, that can actually cause build up on the spark plugs and deposits. The best thing to do is get top tier or brand name gas, use 87 octane, and don't use the same brand for months at a time. Switching to Brand X for a few weeks after using Brand Y will let Brand X's detergents clean any deposits left by Brand Y's fuel and vice versa.

Spending $3-4 on additive every tank of gas is a total waste of money. They have their place when an injector is clogged or if you used bad gas for a while, but even then, just using top quality gas with detergents cleans deposits and keeps the fuel system clean from then on.
 






First and cheapest clean off your maf sensor (3-5 bucks a can at any parts store, this is a cheap and big mpg boost if it's really dirty) clean out the throttle body and plate with carb cleaner, make sure to get the back of the butterfly plate.

Change your fuel filter. Chances are it hasnt been done in a LONG time. It's less than twenty dollars and can make a HUGE difference. To see the difference blow into the old one, it'll probably feel like blowing into a coffee straw, this shows how plugged it is.

Next do your air filter, plugs and wires, and pcv valve. I did all this and more for around 60 bucks from rockauto.com (including fuel filter).

These are all routine maintenance and as stated before routine maintenance is your best friend for trustworthyness and for mpg.

Next if you have the money and feel like it, do a tranny service. This isn't as much for mpg's, but for trustworthyness.

Obviously don't drive on the free way in 4wd unless you need to, don't keep your hubs locked unless you need to.. this all kills mpg.

I wouldn't waste my time or money on fuel additives tbh.

I'm also local to idaho!
 






Another Nate from Idaho? What are the odds :)

A lot of basics have been covered; fluids, spark plugs, air filter, etc...

One thing I'd recommend is to check to see if you or a previous owner removed the Octane Shorting Bar behind the power distribution box. A lot of people removed these plugs to "fix" pinging with cheap gas. It solved the problem but came at a cost of decreased power and decreased mileage. Mine was missing and my mileage jumped 2MPG when I re-installed one. Granted, that was from 11 to 13 and I'm working on other mileage issues but that's a significant jump. You gotta wonder then about running cheap gas. I replaced the shorting bar in mine because I only run premium and I know it hasn't/won't ping. Yea, the gas is more expensive but if you're more efficient with a better fuel... gotta get down & do the math.

That aside, another thing I've been researching lately (but haven't yet implemented) is upgrading the fuel injectors. I forget what years exactly (thinking it's 1991 & 1992) but the early Explorers use a pintle tip fuel injector, called a DRI, where the later Explorers (thinking they started in 1993) use a 4-hole injector that atomizes the fuel better. Take a look at this page, specifically the 1st image vs the 4th image:
http://www.witchhunter.com/spraypattern1.php
Whether or not that equates to huge increases in mileage, I have yet to find out. I would bet that there would be a measurable improvement, especially coming from dirty pintle-style to clean (rebuilt) 4-hole style. Anyway, there's sellers that have rebuilt injectors starting at $125 and up, then you gotta think about an intake gasket and other goodies to do the job yourself. Again, whether or not it will save you enough in gas to make up the cost, the jury's still out.


*EDIT*
Nobody's mentioned dumping excess weight either. I removed the rear seats in mine, not because of weight though, I just prefer the extra space. They weigh a fair amount though. Less weight = less gas burned hauling it all around. Something to think about.
 






This is all great information, thank you every body!

Anime- I had the tires check by Les Schawbs, but yes I'll check the PSI myself when I get done here. I feel sheepish the fact that I haven't actually checked them myself, I just trusted other people. In my defense, Lew Schawbs is a reputable place. As for premium gas goes.... Well you're talking about places like Chevrons yeah? With the smile-ly car pics and stuff. That stuff is not so readily available in Williston, ND or across Montana, but I know even my home town in North Idaho has a few places like that. But I will take your advice and keep a look out for gas that has cleaning agents in it.

UPDATED- Checked PSI, both fronts are 32psi

Kiliona- Awesome! Thank you for the original ideas! Honestly I'd rather do any car work myself if I can, but I will be the first to find instructions online or a youtube video. As for the MAF I didn't even think of that but I will search on how to do that. The throttle body as well. That should help a bit I'd think. Fuel and Air filter will come once I get the funds incoming. And when I do them, I'll go ahead and buy the top brands rather then the cheapest stuff available. My plan is to, when I can, replace the coil, wires and plugs with performance equipment. I'm currently researching and making a shopping list but if anyone has already bought some performance parts I'd love to hear a review. I'll try and get to the tranny when I can, wanna keep my X in top running shape. And using 4 wheel drive, I try not to at all cost. I think it drops my MPG to single digits...

natenkiki2004- Greetings fellow Nate! To be honest I've never even heard of the Octane Shorting Bar before. But I will definitely look into that! As for the fuel injectors, yes that will be researched and added to my shopping list (if it's reasonable enough). I would have never even thought of that so thank you. If I do add it then I'll post more results and you can judge, using real world applications, if it does add MPG. The weight thing I am at fault at. I do have a sub box in my back, probably weighs close to 60 lbs (two 10'' subs). I don't think I'm going to get rid of it just for the fact that it makes my 12 hour drive more fun :-)
 






Chevron is one of the more well-known gas stations with detergent gasoline, but there are plenty of others that meet the top-tier spec:

http://www.toptiergas.com/retailers.html

You can use top tier gas and only pay a few cents more per gallon for it, which is much less expensive than buying cheap gas and paying for a fuel additive each time.
 






Thank you Anime! Good news is that there are Conoco's everywhere up here, so I will start using this gas!
 






Filled up last night, here's what I got.

Avg. MPH----Miles Traveled----Gallons of Gas----MPG----Added to car----Gas Octane use at fill

1. 75MPH-----143.3-----------9.4--------------15.2----A lil' Berrymans left in tank---87
2. 65-75MPH--105.3-----------5.2--------------20.23---Almost no Berrymans--------87
3. 25-65MPH--170.5-----------11.9-------------14.32---Nothing --------------------89 top tier gas

I think line 2 was a fluke, I'm not sure I "topped off" the tank. I started with a can of Berryman's fuel additive in my tank at the start of the trip. I know that I was getting 20+ MPG at the start but I didn't start tracking until towards the end. Line 3 is mostly city driving with stop and go and I should expect the MPG to go down. I can't make a solid conclusion based off what I have here. I do want my numbers to be all/mostly highway numbers to keep things uniform. I believe I will be heading home on or around June 16th and I will get more solid numbers then. My plan is to fill up before I leave, drive 100 miles or so and get an accurate reading of my MPG. When I fill up next I will add something to my tank and attempt 150-200 miles, to use most of my tank and get another reading. Unless, of course, I can do something to my car before hand. In that case my plan will change. I will be cleaning my MAF sensor and maybe if I have the time my throttle body as well. I would like to get an accurate reading of those little fixes before doing other things.
 






Get a underdrive pulley and efan..both will make huge gains for highway use..
 






Underdrive pulley and efan....huh. I've not heard of those but I'm going find out what they are now! Thanks!
 






Underdrive pulley and efan....huh. I've not heard of those but I'm going find out what they are now! Thanks!

A electric fan replaces your belt driven fan, less strain on motor and on highway it probably never even turn on.. $$ mpg

Underdrive reduces strain also, it replaces your crank pulley.

You could EASILY pull an additional 5+ mpg out of that setup on the highway:salute:

Udp is expensive but from personal experience it pays for itself very quickly especially if you're doing all highway mileage. Efan is cheap
 






Ah! Thank you for clarifying! I was in the middle of researching these terms and I was still pretty lost. From what I see so far, these seem like pretty reasonable additions. All in due time.
 






Ok wait, I'm searching for 91 Explorer pulley kits and really all I'm finding are single pulley's for like $10. Is that right? Do you have a link to a more specific part?
 






Ok wait, I'm searching for 91 Explorer pulley kits and really all I'm finding are single pulley's for like $10. Is that right? Do you have a link to a more specific part?

They dont make a kit anymore.you can buy just the udp and then a overdrive on from ebay for you alternator. .the crank is list for a sohc 4.0 mustang now and is made by asp.ill see if I can find my link
 









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Search for member ALDIVE threads.he explored about everything to increase his mpg, I ""believe"" he was seeing 33mpg ish...
here is a good quote from him


""""""""Originally Posted by#aldive#

The UD releives the motor of parasitic loss from driving the accessories. This nets more usable HP as well as significantly better gas mileage.

I have a UD crank pulley (#http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...50#post1377150#) as well as an UDwater#pump#pulley (#http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...98#post1394998#). To overcome a diminished charging at idle, I installed an Overdrive alternator pulley (#http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...78#post1406278#).

Here in the blistering Florida heat, I have never had any cooling issues with the UD#water#pump#pulley nor have I had any issues with the AC.

Without a doubt, underdriving is the best bang for the buck that I am aware of.

"""""
 






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