1st Gen Power Steering Pump failure

[fixxxer]

Ok guys, time for me to ask a couple questions and ask for some advice for a change.
The pwr steering pump on my 93 is going bad, leaking power steering fluid (from the shaft sear I think) and whining. I know the whining can be caused by aeriation of the fluid. The fluid in the reservoir looks dark and burnt, no burnt smell though.

I'm going to replace the pump with a Cardone reman. pump and a new pressure hose (thanks for your thread Tbars!) but I need advice on any tips and tricks to remove the pump pulley and after replacement, putting that pully back on properly. Also, any advice in removing all the old fluid from the steering-gear box and the rest of the system?

 

[Tony H]

You really should buy or borrow the Correct Puller. You absolutely do not want to Beat the pulley onto the new pump.

They don't come off the old one easy either

http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=220

 

[fixxxer]

Thanks Tony, I will be renting the puller for the pulley and I know that to remove it, I need to leave the pump mounted in the engine bay when I use the puller. Pressing the pulley back on the pump shaft is where I need some advice.

 

[Tony H]

Thanks Tony, I will be renting the puller for the pulley and I know that to remove it, I need to leave the pump mounted in the engine bay when I use the puller. Pressing the pulley back on the pump shaft is where I need some advice.

This puller will also hold the shaft and press the Pulley back on without streeing the seals and bearings..
You do not need to keep th epump mounted in the car but it helps hold it for you as you press the old one off.

 

[fixxxer]

Thanks Tony, hopefully the autoparts place will have that or an equivalent puller tool. I also found some info from a very early Explorer-Forum posting
http://www.explorerforum.com/Singleton/web/pages/pspump.html

 

[marragtop]

Definitely use the correct puller as the pulley is made of plastic. To install the pulley on the new pump, do it after the pump is fully mounted. Use a bolt and large washer to press the pulley on. Some pumps include the bolt and washer.

 

[fixxxer]

Thank you marragtop, I will definately be checing with the parts counter person regarding the availbility of the pulley removal and installation tools. Maybe I'll get lucky and they will take the pulley off and put the new one on for me. I used to have a real good relationship with the asst. manager at this store but they gave him his own store to manage last fall and he's on the other side of town now.

 

[Carguy3J]

Don't even waste your time trying to save the old pulley. Really. You'll spend alot of time and frustration trying to save a $10-$15 pulley. Chances are, in the end you won't get it off w/o damage anyway. Just buy a new pulley, for your new pump. If you can get the old pump off w/o removing the pulley, then just leave it on. If you HAVE to remove the pulley to get the pump out, then carefully cut the pulley off the pump shaft with a dremel tool (w/ a small cut-off wheel). After you've taken a chunk out of the "hub" of the pulley, soak it with some PB Blaster, apply a little heat to the pulley, and beat it off with a hammer. After removing that chunk from the "hub" it should have reduced the radial tension, and eliminated much of the press fit. The heat, lube, and hammer will take care of the rest. Just be careful not to damage the pump shaft, with the dremel,etc.., so they will stil take the core back.

The new pump should come with a "tool" to help press it on. I would maybe leave the pump in the freezer overnight to "shrink" the shaft. Then, put some chassis grease on the inside of the new pulley hub. Carefully apply a little heat, with a plumbing torch (**assuming it is a METAL pulley**). Turn off the heat, and tighten the installation tool a few turns. Then go back, and reapply a little more heat, and repeat. You may need to do this a few times. It may also help to give the pulley hub a few GENTLE taps with a mallet in between each tightening step. This seems to help ensure it goes on straight, and doesn't "bind" on the shaft.

I would recommend replacing both the pressure and return lines, to get out any contaminates. It may also be required for the pump warranty.

To flush the system, hook up your new lines, but leave the return line off the back of the pump. Instead run it to catch can/bottle/etc.. I like to use old clear beverage bottles, like 1 gallon ice tea jugs, so I can see the fluid. Fill the pump with new fluid, start the vehicle. Have someone work the steering back and forth for you. Be ready to rapidly add more fluid, as you will quicky lose it out the return line. This will flush the old fluid out of the gear box/cooler/etc... without allowing any of the old fluid to circulate back into your new pump. Once the fluid coming out looks resaonably clean, stop. Install the retrun line back on to the pump, refill, and proceed to follow the proper bleeding procedures. Again, be sure not to let the pump run dry during the flushing process. Be prepared, as you will probably need several quarts of p/s fluid. (Don't use tranny fluid. Actual p/s fluid is clear, and is better for the pump/seals).

 

[fixxxer]

I have thought about replacing the pulley at the same time, sourcing it from the same place as the pump as they are listing a replacement pulley for $13. Pressure hose is running $19 and the return hose is $13, a gallon of PS fluid is about $12.
It's looking like a grand-total of $92 before tax. Wonder how much I'm saving doing it myself?
I'm guessing $200-$250 for labor alone and you can probably double the price of the parts. I've been unemployed for almost a year now so even that $92 is going to really hurt to shell out but I gotta have my baby back on the road!

 

[fixxxer]

Update, total cost after taxes, after core charge, $103.86. Now I have to wait for the person before me, that rented the puller, to bring them back. If they are not back by Monday, the store will get a pulley puller set from another store.

 

[marragtop]

Hopefully for the price you stated, it includes the PS pump reservior and the pressue that you mentioned. Make sure you get a Ford PS puller, not a universal one.

 

[Tbars4]

...I somehow missed this but I am glad you found the thread useful...:biggthump

...As mentioned, use a Ford puller and it will be pretty much effortless....As for info on the steering gear, Izwack has some good threads or post about working on them...

 

[fixxxer]

Hey Tbars, your not too late on this one, after replacing the pump (yes, complete with new reservior) it's still leaking but the cleanup was essential to find out that's actually leaking or was also leaking from, the pitman shaft seal. Fortunately the seal kits are inexpensive, just labor intensive.

 

[Tbars4]

...My Ranger will soon be getting the AGR pump upgrade as it has been making some noise lately and I found the previous owner must have used something like pvc pipe where the hose comes into it to keep it from leaking..

...It would be cool to have a thread detailing this repair you are doing as I don't believe there is good one around...