2000 4.0 SOHC Operating temp? | Ford Explorer Forums

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2000 4.0 SOHC Operating temp?

Cncbrody2000

Member
Joined
February 22, 2021
Messages
17
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City, State
Oakdale, Ca
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 Ford Explorer EB
I got a 2000 4.0 V6. Winter driving I am totally fine. Summer comes I get to about 180 coolant temp and that is same regardless of season. Hot days come around 90 F and truck will idle and water temp will go up. I have AC on and check the fan. The fan works and seems to be getting enough air through radiator. What should I try? The additive at AutoZoner that cools system colder or what? Recently change coolant and thermostat. I changed in first please becuase I had this problem before but never went away. Thanks Cameron
 



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180f ???
 






Mine seems to sit at 182°F and never move.

How old is your radiator? What is the temp getting to?

Don’t waste your money on an additive.
 






Mine seems to sit at 182°F and never move.

How old is your radiator? What is the temp getting to?

Don’t waste your money on an additive.
I haven’t check radiator temp but I have a gauge in my truck hooked up right out of the radiator into a T connector. That’s is what is ready 180. How can I tel if my radiator is bad?
 






Wait so it stays at 180?
 






It’s supposed to always be the same. That’s the entire point of the thermostat.
 






And 180 is just fine (if not overly cool).
 






Wait so it stays at 180?
Yes it stays at 180 while driving but when I stop for like 10 mins it’s slowly rises as it rises the rpm rise then truck slowly overheats
 






Sounds like a bad water pump, low coolant, or an obstruction.
 






Sounds like a bad water pump, low coolant, or an obstruction.
I agree. Check your radiator level (cold engine) at the radiator cap. If a stopleak was ever used in the vehicle, it can easily stop up the line to the expansion tank. If so, the level in the expansion tank will stay about the same and your radiator will go low. Possibly, causing a coolant leak at the water pump and/or thermostat. Had this happen and both needed changed. Found the cause as a blocked line to the expansion tank. I removed the line at the radiator and used 15PSI to blow it out. If you have debris in the tank, do this and then flush the tank with distilled water. Refill with antifreeze mix, as required, to the full hot. A few cycles and it should be pretty close to full cold line when cold. Make sure to replace the radiator cap.

If you have to do this, monitor the tank for debris and repeat as needed. For at least a couple of weeks check your coolant at the radiator to make sure that it does not go low.

Also, you might just need a new radiator cap. If you haven't changed it in the last 2 years, it is a cheap guess.
 






If you are measuring the temperature in the radiator, that will vary due to movement of the vehicle, so not moving that will go up some. The radiator temp will be lower than the engine temps, the thermostat only controls the temperature inside the engine, given the colder radiator temps.
 






If the dash gauge is showing overheating, the needle getting close the hot side, then something is reducing heat transfer. The radiator airflow or the T'stat misbehaving could do it, as well as the fan clutch not engaging enough(which is airflow), plus the other things less likely given new coolant recently.
 






What level is the coolant inside the radiator, each and every time you check it when cold? That should always be right at the top, in the cap itself. If there is any air pocket there, then the coolant is either leaking out, or the cap is not sealing properly and purging the air out to the reservoir. The caps are reliable, but they can be bad when brand new. At this age, many parts like that are wise to replace as preventative maintenance.

If the engine get too warm at low speeds, and you think the coolant is good, T'stat etc, it may be time to replace the fan clutch.
 






I haven’t check radiator temp but I have a gauge in my truck hooked up right out of the radiator into a T connector. That’s is what is ready 180. How can I tel if my radiator is bad?
That's not where you read engine temperature. Engine should run around 180 so I'm not sure what you're even asking here. You wouldn't want it to run any cooler. It's not designed to.
 






Although I agree with my fellow forum members
I may add ....from experience ....
Take a real good look at your fan For cracks
and your fan clutch !!
Replace it with a Hayden unit only and motorcraft fan blades period !

Example.... BE VERY CAREFUL !!!!! I understand this is an old post I responded anyway.
 






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