2000 Explorer blows #26 fuse HELP!!!!

[budwich]

GEM swap was after melted wires were repaired I believe. I still have the GEM and will hang onto it untill done then EBAY. If I remember correct the pins that were burnt on the shift module were 6 and 10. They were burnt off between the board and the pin connector where the plug in goes. I owe you guys all steak dinner and a beverage if you are ever my way

OK.... it does make some "sense" but ultimately the question is that outside of "fixing" those connections (resolder????), did you actually test the rest of the board after the "repair". I am not sure which "chicken or egg" happened first but I suspect you have a ignition issue that might have took out your shift module.... having said that ... do you / did you run your vehicle in "auto 4w" all the time / most of the time????

further... burns is never good... especially when there is a solid state device involved ... in this case the circuit has a diode in it... you probably need to "buzz" the board with some basic checks to resolve the blowing fuse issue.

 

[malawiman79]

The connections that I repaired were behind the relay panel. The shift control module burned pins all I did was purchase a good one. The pins looked fine untill opened up and looked at the board. Yes in 4x4 auto as my options are auto, 4x4 high of 4x4 low

Not to confuse or add more to the fire but get this...... I pulled # 26 fuse in hopes that it would stop the battery drain and save me jump starting for now. Well it seemed to but last night noticed that the dome lights came on and then checked and the windows worked??? Everytime the fuse blew when I was working on it the dome lights and fuse would become inop!!! Thinking I need to study some diagrams and see where all of the relays get power cause something is getting worse I think

 

[budwich]

Well.... that's new information... "I purchased a new one".... and the fuse blows when plugging in that unit!!!. I think you have additional wiring issues towards it (ie. melted / somewhere). As suggested, did you check your "hot in run" connections on the GEM???

The windows working suggests problems still around the relay module area... but those are likely related in some way to the "hot in run" issue.

Having said that.... I would say that your fuse blowing issue is likely not a "short to ground".... its a "short to power" meaning that the circuits that are "cross connected" are too much for the fuse to handle (ie. exceeds its rating). Probably doesn't help much but maybe something to keep in mind when you are looking at wires.

 

[budwich]

lastly.... in your latest "test" by removing fuse 26, and your windows still worked... that's the clue... I think. check the accessory delay relay to see if it is operated (with a meter to see if there is voltage on pin30..LB /BK or pull it and listen for the click as it drops). Anyways, odds are it is operated.... you likely have a short some where near the relay module on pins 86 and 87.

 

[malawiman79]

Yes there is power at the LB/BLk not sure which pins but can and will check. What gets me is that in previous days when fuse 26 blew I would loose windows and interior lights. Then now they work with fuse pulled, telling me that they are getting power and ground but should not. GEM is sending ground to them at all times. Yes when pulling acc relay it clicks. Makes sense about the ground to hot not ground to short. It gets confusing to me how it all interlocks between the different relays and controls.

 

[budwich]

ok.... and you need to confirm that indeed IF you pull fuse 26 (and leave the GEM installed, shift control not installed), that there the accessory delay relay is operated and that if you pull the accessory delay, it drops. This tells you that the accessory delay relay is probably good (you should still check the pins for appropriate conditions ... ie that no pins are directly "connected" to each other except those that are connected during "make" times). IF such is the case (the relay operates, windows work) , your issue centers around that relay getting operating voltage from "somewhere" which is an issue since the fuse for the "operating voltage" is "sitting in your hand". You don't have to go further than that .... basically track the LG/O... good hunting.

Lastly, not knowing where the shift control module is actually located....but did you check around that area for melted cabling / touching wires especially near LG/O which goes there (from the battery saver relay... in a round about way).

 

[malawiman79]

So the LG/O wire supplies the power??? Should I check on the back side of the relay or pull the relay and check where the spades are??? Yes looked around the shift control module alot and all looks ok. Was concerned as someone had installed a aftermarket cd player before me and that caused a RED FLAG to me however looks to be done correct and no wiring messes

 

[budwich]

basically, IF your windows works when the accessory delay relay is in and don't when its out (plus all the other stuff, GEM in, fuse out), then the accessory delay gets its voltage from the LG/O and switches it to the LB/BLk which carries it to the windows controls among other things. With "fuse in hand", there should be / is no "source" in the circuit for voltage... unless its coming from somewhere else... which is what you are looking for. The aftermarket "stuff" is never a good sign as people usually do "after market wiring"... and are know to have issues like mixing wires, mixing powering ...for instance using "hot in run" for "memory" when its normally "hot at all times"... but IF they have done that and connected both to the same terminal... it won't hurt the stereo but it certainly will cause issues like the one you have. Anyways, its something to keep in mind. Having said that, I assume that this "problem" started long after you had the truck and long after the after market stuff was "touched"... right???? I would check the "radio" a bit.... does it play with no key??? has it always worked like that? etc.... BUT again.... the "track" should look at the access. delay feeds... you are close.

 

[malawiman79]

Will double check everything, maybe not tonight but if not I will tomorrow after work. Radio was put it with a "plug and play" harness from the looks of it. Looked it over and seems ok. almost a month with truck and no issue like this ( others though ) I'll tackle those later. CMP code and airbag light on.

 

[Peter B.]

Keep Blowing Fuse #26

I have a 1997 Ford Explorer;

Fuse #26 is 10 amp which according to the Owners Guide Protects Circuits for 5r55e/4r7OW overdrive, DRL system, Backup lamps, AWD, and the Rear defroster.

I have replaced the fuse 2 times. By the way what is the DRL??? I assume that the 5r55e/4r7ow is the type or name of the overdrive?

Any Help you can give me would be much appreaciated

All The Best!:

 

[jwrezz]

I'd bet it's the rear defrost. Easy to break those things, easy to get a short I'd imagine as well. Unplug the wires that attach to the rear glass and try again. Could be any of the bulbs tho too.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! I've merged your thread with an existing thread on the same subject.

 

[jwrezz]

Not for nothin, but you merged a 1997 explorer into a 2000 explorer probelm. I've got no idea if the fuses are the same, but if not, this may not help.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Both are second generation vehicles.

 

[budwich]

well based on the list of "protected things", the fusing is different so I don't think its helps to combine them.... yes its a fusing blowing issue BUT I don't think that this thread was in tended to be the "master fuse blowing" thread. It's going to get confusing for the posters very quick.

 

[malawiman79]

Haven't worked on it in a few days have a nasty cold but have noticed the following while driving to work. Windows and interior lights worked with #26 fuse pulled for almost two days then all of the sudden it stopped, then if I put fuse in it worked again ( with shift control module out) It all quit again after going through the car wash, then I got to thinking and when it all started a few weeks ago was a few hours after going through the car wash and now I see signs of water on the headliner by the windshield. Hmmmmm water signs were in the old shift control module as well. Thinking I may have found my problem and it shorted a few things out.

 

[jwrezz]

Congrats! You found your problem and it wasn't really an electrical problem, but a leak! Water+Electricity=Bad

 

[malawiman79]

Thats what I'm thinking anyway. Water signs on the shift control module but doesn't explain why things were getting power when they weren't supposed to. I am REALLY thinking the GEM is cooked from water and am going to look for water in the fuse panel as I found a SSM that talked about this problem

 

[budwich]

Glad you found the "root cause" of your electrical issues.... it will help you in preventing things in the future (assuming you fix your leak). OF course, it does little is solving your current failure(s) but may / will focus your "search" in and around areas that might have gotten wet resulting in "melted" wiring / connectors.

 

[malawiman79]

UPDATE----- Got a used GEM yesterday and installed it, did not fix problem. So I started tracking down some wiring. On the Battery saver relay the two tan/yellow are always hot as is the Green/orange ( I don't think it should be) Then I checked the purple/orange and it is grounded all of the time ( comes from the GEM and I don't think it should be grounded all the time) checked it at the GEM and it is grounded right out of the GEM. I am finding that the Green/Orange wire is hot on all of the relays and should only be when triggered??? Also found that on the shift control module is hot on the Green/orange (connected to battery saver circuit 705), Drk Green/Lt Green (shows hot all times in diagram, Yellow hot all times, Brown low voltage unless shifted into 4x4 high then jumps up. Any ideas?????