2000 Explorer No Start-Crank

[Dave789]

Hello
Ever since we replaced the ignition key (lost) the Exploder (Eddie Bauer) has had electrical issues. This was in another thread of mine.

However, we somehow confused the alarm into thinking it should go off. So, we pulled the horn fuse. Then thru opening and locking etc etc we convinced the alarm that all was ok, so it is off now.

But now it won't crank. I read a thread here that has a lot of steps to follow. Step #1 is does the THEFT light blink rapidly ? Not sure, what is RAPID ? Does that mean the alarm is on ? I have noticed that when I put the key in, turn it to ON, and try and crank it, the THEFT light keeps blinking, but not FAST IMHO.

"PATS uses a visual theft indicator located on top of the instrument panel. This
indicator will prove out for three seconds when the ignition switch is turned to ON
or START under normal operation. If there is a PATS problem, this indicator will
either flash rapidly or glow steadily (for more than three seconds) when the ignition
switch is turned to ON or START. PATS also "flashes" the theft indicator every two
seconds at ignition OFF to act as a visual theft deterrent."

So, if I put the key in and turn it to ON, should ther THEFT light stop blinking (and go out) if the key is OK ?

So am I to pass Step #1 ?

How do one know if they key is programmed correctly ? (theft light goes out ?)

BTW, since the key was replaced, the wipers are intermittant, the windows (although power locks work) the electric guages don't work (mileage, compass, radio) etc. This all happened before it wouldn't start.

 

[CDW6212R]

The THEFT light should stay on when the key is turned to ON, which means the key code was accepted. If the light flashes, at all, then the key code was not accepted, and the fuel pump will not run from then until the next time the key is turned on.

It sounds like there was some issue before, which might be related to the starting circuit too. How much work has been done around the key cylinder, or steering column? The wiring for those is critical for starting and everything else.

The tiny wiring connector at the ignition key cylinder, which should be a light blue, is very fragile and easily broken or disconnected. I'd begin there, that is a common cause of the key code not being accepted(THEFT light flashes).

 

[Dave789]

You say "the THEFT light stays ON" - so, am I to assume that the THEFT light blinks all the time, until you put the key in, then the light stays ON until the key is verified ok ? Then it stops blinking ?

BTW, when I said it won't start, I mean it won't crank. it does nothing.

When I turn the key to ON, the THEFT light still flashes, same as before i put the key in. It flashes in about 1s intervals.

And yes, the ignition key was just replaced by a friend-mechanic. It worked for about 2 weeks then lots of stuff stopped working and then started again...windows 1st, then wipers, then radio, then interiors lights, etc. Then after all this the alarm stayed on, then it wouldn't start. I 1st unplugged the horn fuse, then opened and locked the doors on and off until the alarm stopped staying on. Now after all that it won't start. But even if it would start the windows & wipers (and more) won't work I'll bet.

 

[CDW6212R]

It sounds like some other wiring work has been done to the truck. The starter should operate with any key that turns the cylinder.

So you have at least two issues, unrelated. You said the key was changed, do you mean just the key, a new key cut for the original key cylinder? Hopefully that's the case, and then the new key just has to be programmed into the memory of the PATS module. That requires two other working(code programmed) keys.

I'd look closely at all fuses and relays, make sure nothing it wrong there. Is there an added alarm system, which requires cutting into the main(critical) power wires? That is kind of common to have that create problems, installation mistakes that mess with the existing wiring and systems.

 

[Dave789]

No other wiring work. We lost the key a month ago, then had a key made by a friend. It worked 2 weeks then the other elect. issues (windows wipers) started. Then the alarm stayed on (fixed) and then it won't crank.

If you're saying the THEFT light should STAY ON when the key is turned to ON, it doesn't. it just keeps blinking. but it should still crank you say ?

I was reading a STARTING thread bvut lost it. it said i can switch the blower motor and starter relay to test.

I'll keep looking for it.

If you have time it would help if I can call you or you me when I'm at the Exploder, as it's not here but at a friends house.

 

[CDW6212R]

Two issues; the key has to be programmed, it will not run the fuel pump without being programmed .Do you know that the new key was? You don't just make a key for these and it work, ever, programming is an absolute must.

 

[CDW6212R]

What alarm does it have? Any alarm, even OEM versions can disable the starter. You mentioned other issues, windows an wipers. Something else is wrong, not just the key issue.

The THEFT light will flash if an un-programmed key is put in it. That's all that matters, you want to turn the ignition on, and have the THEFT light stay on continuously, while the switch is on(not start,ACC or off, just ON). Put the key in and turn it to ON, what does the THEFT light do? That is the key test and determines if the fuel pump will run.

You need to find the other electrical issue that is stopping the starter from operating. Checking the relays is first, check the main fuse at the PDB(where the cable comes in from the alternator), check for power to the starter, both wires(if nothing else turns up(dangerous under the car, do it from above)).

 

[grizzlyxjim]

I'm a locksmith by trade it sounds like you need to have your key programmed. It will not read the code and allow the fuel pump to work if not for the specific vehicle especially newer models. This is asinine in my opinion but yeah. You'll have to get it coded for your specific vehicle.