2000 XLT 5.0 AWD | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums

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2000 XLT 5.0 AWD

All second gen V8s are 2wd, or they are AWD. With the AWD both axles are constantly powered with a rear axle bias. As the rear tires spin ( V8s will have limited slip rears) more torque is added to the front. No electronics, it’s 100% mechanical.
 



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The 4.0 should pull any incline. They aren’t a lot of hp, but they have decent torque. If that’s the case, there’s something wrong with it.
I wouldn’t consider AWD 4wd high. Very different animals.
I wholeheartedly agree something is wrong with my motor. Recurring CEL, p0171 p0174 error codes, stumbles at low RPM, if you apply steady throttle above 2500 rpm in anything less than 5 th gear it sounds like the valves are floating. But it fires up every day and I am almost always full throttle. I have been waiting for it to finally give up its last gasps so I "have" to swap the 5.0 into it but it will not die. The odometer stopped working over a year and a half ago so I stopped doing oil changes (it still had 2000km till it was due)...still goes. I am probably at the 275000 kilometer mark (170000 miles?) and finally did an oil change when I installed the replacement cluster. Still goes but now it leaves puddles in the driveway and smells funny.

Sorry for the thread hijacking.
 












No, not all 5,0L's came with AWD. All but one of mine where RWD and the one I bought that turned out to be AWD was advertised as RWD and I didn't notice that it was AWD until I got it home and removed the front hub caps while checking the brakes. Actually I was bummed when I discovered it was AWD as I didn't need/want it, living in the southern U.S.

For me the AWD adds unwanted weight and complexity, slightly poorer fuel economy, the need to buy tires 4 at a time and more stuff to break (front wheel hub assemblies, CV axles, front diff, driveshaft CV joint, t-case and oil leaks, added maintenance). If you live where it snows it's worth it. If you occasionally go off-road it's pretty good, but for serious off-roading a manual t-case is better.
 






All second gen V8s are 2wd, or they are AWD. With the AWD both axles are constantly powered with a rear axle bias. As the rear tires spin ( V8s will have limited slip rears) more torque is added to the front. No electronics, it’s 100% mechanical.

Have any recommendations for cheap air intakes?
 


















The mods to support a turbo on the 5.0 are expensive. The 5.0 in the Explorer isn’t very conducive to putting out more power. I’d prepare to spend at least $3,000, and that’s the low end presuming you do every bit of it yourself.

Air intakes are mostly pointless( especially “cold” air intakes) and placebo effect from the louder intake giving the illusion of power.
 






The mods to support a turbo on the 5.0 are expensive. The 5.0 in the Explorer isn’t very conducive to putting out more power. I’d prepare to spend at least $3,000, and that’s the low end presuming you do every bit of it yourself.

Air intakes are mostly pointless( especially “cold” air intakes) and placebo effect from the louder intake giving the illusion of power.

I was joking when I said turbo haha. I’m keeping her insides stock.
 






Lol, 3000 didn’t touch any internals.
 












You can find them by google searching full length roof rack. You will have to adapt them, as you won’t find one specific for a second gen. Expect to spend several hundred.

Depending on what you want to put up there you could buy 2 basket style racks and marry them together.
 






You can find them by google searching full length roof rack. You will have to adapt them, as you won’t find one specific for a second gen. Expect to spend several hundred.

Depending on what you want to put up there you could buy 2 basket style racks and marry them together.

What’s the mounting like? Do they screw right in to the roof rail holes or do they mount on the bars of the roof rack?
 






A lot of times there are brackets that mount to the rails.
 






I have liked the Cooper tires I've been buying for a few years. Three different models have worn well for the price, and that's been $100-$140 depending on sizes and models. They came out with several new models recently and many are priced better than the prior models. I don't know if they list the 15's in inch sizes, 30 x 9.5" etc, I've been going by the normal sizes, 255/70R16 etc.

FYI, the 15" Explorer tires were 29" diameter, the 16's were 30" tall, both used the same speedometers. So stock they weren't dead accurate. The 30" tall tires are closest to what the speedometer is made to be most accurate with.

I'd check for both 15's and 16's, maybe you'll locate some stock 16" wheels you like better.

Take care of that engine and trans, rebuild costs are very high these days. Long ago you could rebuild an engine for $1000 or less, now it looks like $2000 or more may be the bottom level.
 






...

For me the AWD adds unwanted weight and complexity, slightly poorer fuel economy....

hehe did any of us get a 5.0 brick shaped truck and have fuel economy as a primary concern? :D

i actually leave the "moving snail" on my roof rack, i noticed less then negligible fuel economy difference with it on then it being off for most of the driving i do, because those trucks are so much like a wall LOL. (also makes finding the truck in a parking lot much easier).

of course don't go about 60 - 65 but it sucked fuel above that anyway (yay physics!)
 






The AWD does eat a fair amount of power, and makes the wheel stiffer.
 






While the fuel economy of these trucks sucks it still sucks worse with the AWD.
 






A lot of times there are brackets that mount to the rails.

I am considering painting my truck all black with bedliner. I like the look, and it should last a while, right? Only thing I need to figure out is spraying it on and all the before stuff to make it stick to the paint well. Wondering if I could I find someone that might be able to do it because I don't have all the tools or experience.
 



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Use monstaliner, and roll it on.
 






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