2001 XLT (5.0 V8) Main Issues?

[Trantor]

I have had two third generation Explorers, one with the 4.0 SOHC engine which had timing chain guides and tensioners issues at 150k and one with the 4.6L V8 which is still running today. I also have two fifth generation Explorers with no issues. I am looking at a 2001 XLT with the 5.0L V8 for my high school daughter but am not as familiar with the reliability of the second gen Explorer. Any main issues to be aware of? Thanks for the help. Very Respectfully, Mike

 

[C420sailor]

Transfer case and front driveshaft CV. The AWD system eats front driveshaft CV joints, and if you don’t have closely matched tires all around, the viscous coupling in the case will slowly cook itself—so make sure you have the same tires with similar wear all the way around.

The rest of the driveline is bulletproof.

The V8 is a little more leak prone than the SOHC, but that is just an annoyance.

Water pump studs tend to corrode pretty bad.

Get a flashlight and get a good look at all four block-to-mount studs. They tend to break when these trucks are ridden real hard.

 

[crunchie_frog]

You mean besides all of the usual stuff for a 20 yr old vehicle likely with high miles which is pretty much everything on the vehicle? Here are some of the more vehicle specific failures on this particular vehicle I have experienced that I believe to be very common:

1. Timing chain cover gasket leak, this is pretty expensive job if you do not do it yourself and if you do, you will wish you did not have to do this job. Sometimes some of stop leak products work but this is a very common failure. I have replaced the timing cover gasket on 3 of the 4 5.0s I have. I would recommend you do a pressure test with a kit you can get from Advance Auto, or other and pressurize the cooling system and look for leaks. You may also find a radiator leak which is also relatively common. Also read up on the timing chain cover gasket leak failure, very very common.

2. As mentioned AWD transfer case does not like different size tires and many of these will have the front drive shaft removed. You do no mention if yours is 2WD or AWD. Replacement of this is not the worst job but again if you are a do it yourselfer, if not gonna be expensive. You should at least check to be sure the front drive shaft is in.

3. Cam shaft synchronizer squeak. You will hear a chirping noise coming from the engine bay. I have replaced 3 of 4. Very easy job but OEM part is probably $150 - $200 and needs a special tool and knowledge of how to get to TDC for installation.

4. Well, fuel pump. I almost make it a rule when buying one of these older vehicles to drop the fuel tank, clean and dry thoroughly, replace it with a new quality fuel pump. Can be a kind of a pain job with the fuel fitting always playing difficult or if you do this with the fuel tank.

5. Shocks and ball joints. Good chance both are bad. Would want proof of when they were last replaced, if they do not know, likely need replacement.

I got my daughter one of these when she was just out of high school at ~190 K and she is still driving at ~250 K miles though I have done all of the things above on hers (as well as a lot of other stuff). I would change ALL of the fluids (brake, oil, trans, transfer case, power steering, front and rear differentials, coolant). Of course, brakes need to be in good order and of course a CEL check.

To be honest, as much as I really like these 5.0 AWD vehicles, I am not sure I would recommend them to someone who is not a do it yourselfer, repairs can get very expensive and things like starters, radiators, alternators, plugs, wires, all of the normal wear and tear stuff is going to need to be replaced at some point or the other in an older vehicle.

If you are a do it yourselfer, there is a lot of information on the internet and this forum as well about problems and repairs. Good luck.

 

[Trantor]

Transfer case and front driveshaft CV. The AWD system eats front driveshaft CV joints, and if you don’t have closely matched tires all around, the viscous coupling in the case will slowly cook itself—so make sure you have the same tires with similar wear all the way around.

The rest of the driveline is bulletproof.

The V8 is a little more leak prone than the SOHC, but that is just an annoyance.

Water pump studs tend to corrode pretty bad.

Get a flashlight and get a good look at all four block-to-mount studs. They tend to break when these trucks are ridden real hard.

Thank you, I will check the tires and the CV boots to get an idea if work has ever been done.

 

[Trantor]

You mean besides all of the usual stuff for a 20 yr old vehicle likely with high miles which is pretty much everything on the vehicle? Here are some of the more vehicle specific failures on this particular vehicle I have experienced that I believe to be very common:

1. Timing chain cover gasket leak, this is pretty expensive job if you do not do it yourself and if you do, you will wish you did not have to do this job. Sometimes some of stop leak products work but this is a very common failure. I have replaced the timing cover gasket on 3 of the 4 5.0s I have. I would recommend you do a pressure test with a kit you can get from Advance Auto, or other and pressurize the cooling system and look for leaks. You may also find a radiator leak which is also relatively common. Also read up on the timing chain cover gasket leak failure, very very common.

2. As mentioned AWD transfer case does not like different size tires and many of these will have the front drive shaft removed. You do no mention if yours is 2WD or AWD. Replacement of this is not the worst job but again if you are a do it yourselfer, if not gonna be expensive. You should at least check to be sure the front drive shaft is in.

3. Cam shaft synchronizer squeak. You will hear a chirping noise coming from the engine bay. I have replaced 3 of 4. Very easy job but OEM part is probably $150 - $200 and needs a special tool and knowledge of how to get to TDC for installation.

4. Well, fuel pump. I almost make it a rule when buying one of these older vehicles to drop the fuel tank, clean and dry thoroughly, replace it with a new quality fuel pump. Can be a kind of a pain job with the fuel fitting always playing difficult or if you do this with the fuel tank.

5. Shocks and ball joints. Good chance both are bad. Would want proof of when they were last replaced, if they do not know, likely need replacement.

I got my daughter one of these when she was just out of high school at ~190 K and she is still driving at ~250 K miles though I have done all of the things above on hers (as well as a lot of other stuff). I would change ALL of the fluids (brake, oil, trans, transfer case, power steering, front and rear differentials, coolant). Of course, brakes need to be in good order and of course a CEL check.

To be honest, as much as I really like these 5.0 AWD vehicles, I am not sure I would recommend them to someone who is not a do it yourselfer, repairs can get very expensive and things like starters, radiators, alternators, plugs, wires, all of the normal wear and tear stuff is going to need to be replaced at some point or the other in an older vehicle.

If you are a do it yourselfer, there is a lot of information on the internet and this forum as well about problems and repairs. Good luck.

Thank you for the advice. I do my own work to an extent. My dad was a mechanic, but I am not a professional like he was. I will check the owner’s maintenance records (second owner) armed with the knowledge you provided me.

 

[Mbrooks420]

This CV issue isn’t really true. The Awds aren’t any harder on the front CVS than the V6s. They are live and spinning 100% of the time on both.

I have one truck with over 200k on the CVS, and one with over 150k.

The driveshaft in the front is absolutely a weak link. If you buy the cheap rebuild you will likely be changing it out again in a year or two.

 

[410Fortune]

front cv axles on these trucks can last 250-300K!! unless the boots rip and the grease is flung out

The front driveshaft CV joint at the transfer case is a different story, not to be confused with the front cv axles

the 96-01 5.0 Explorer with its gt40 pushrod 302 and half ton 4r70w auto trans is by far the most reliable of all the gen II and dare I say gen III explorers