2002 AC problem, basics?

[Recoil Rob]

I did a search for this and there's a thread a few pages back about "Diagnosing AC Problems". Started to read it and I glazed over at "clutch recycling rate", "dryers" and "clean orifices".

Over the last few years the AC has gotten less and less effective, this year it's gone.

What are the simple things I can do to diagnose or attempt repair? I do a lot of work on my truck, brakes, shocks, under dash stuff, but AC seems to require special tools. How can I check if it just needs a recharge of the refrigerant? I think I remember something about spotting leaks with the aid of a black light?

Can I recharge it myself with one of those $40 kits or is that waste of money/

Thanks for any help.

 

[imp]

I did a search for this and there's a thread a few pages back about "Diagnosing AC Problems". Started to read it and I glazed over at "clutch recycling rate", "dryers" and "clean orifices".

Over the last few years the AC has gotten less and less effective, this year it's gone.

What are the simple things I can do to diagnose or attempt repair? I do a lot of work on my truck, brakes, shocks, under dash stuff, but AC seems to require special tools. How can I check if it just needs a recharge of the refrigerant? I think I remember something about spotting leaks with the aid of a black light?

Can I recharge it myself with one of those $40 kits or is that waste of money/

Thanks for any help.

@Recoil Rob
If AC repair is new to you, but you have that decent mechanical background, and understand the basics about fluids under pressure, how they are moved around and handled, and how they do what they do for us, no reason you can't service AC, IMO.

First, invest in a set of gauges for Refrigerant 134a. Might be buyable on E-Bay for under a hundred bucks, I'm guessing. Check parts stores, but usually retailers are highest. Study how to use them. If it took several years for your Freon (wrong name) to bleed away, simply recharging without regard to leak finding might get you by for several more years. The gauges will tell you if charge is low. Big leaks can be usually spotted visually, as there is OIL in the refrigerant, it coats the area around the leak, quite visibly. Dyes are available to add with Freon, then their color shows up at leak points. Black light is getting a bit too involved, for here, for now.

Your description of symptoms strongly suggest a very gradual bleeding away of the charge, not the sudden, big-bang type of AC failure caused by component failure. If the gauges indicate low or no charge, I would charge the system, and you likely will again have AC. If you go for a gauge set, please do not attempt to hook it up without adequate information FIRST! Pressures present can run as high as 300 psi or more, and wrong manipulation of the gauge valves can result in pressurizing the wrong place, the can of R-134a, for example, which might burst. Keep in mind at all times that proper functioning of the system requires the compressor develop such high pressure to liquefy the refrigerant. I will be glad to guide you, if you ask. PM me. imp

 

[MrPulldown]

I was in the same boat as you a couple of weeks ago. Almost exactly with regrades to AC. Wife in a rush to get it resolved makes an appointment at the local mechanic. $250 for AC service. I told her they will probably charge you $250 and tell you it is not fixed and will cost you more to get it fixed, upwards of $1K. So not wanting her to experience that kind of BS I took it in and talked with with service manager. Asked him if he can perform a diagnostic prior to servicing. If he services it and it doesn't fix it I will be PISSED. Did not threaten and was very polite. Of course they need the car ALL day. late in the day I call and ask the status. Still has not worked on the car and will get to it soon. 1/2 hour later call me and tell me one of the lines is leaking. $750 to fix and it will take a week. Asked him to button it up and I'll pay him for the diagnostics work. $150. I'll pay over the phone by cc and have him leave a diagram with the broken part in question, lock the keys in side. Oh course when I picked it up no diagram. Take 2 more phone call for to get this. Still can't figure out a part number for it.

So after I pick up the explorer I drive down to the autoparts store and a can of AC pro with the gauge. Mind you I am in California so there is a special CA edition + core fee for the can. After 1 can the 18oz(?) the AC starts blowing cold. Fill it with another 12oz and it is pretty close to the right pressure. Been blowing cold for about 3 weeks now. Some tips on filling. The pressure reading is counter intuitive. When the compressor kits on the pressure goes down. The lowest value is the one that you want to read. Very confusing and I am not sure that I got it totally right. But I did watch alot of videos regarding the subject. Also if your Ex has the rear AC make sure it is on max as well.

Good luck.

 

[Hugh Janus]

I did a search for this and there's a thread a few pages back about "Diagnosing AC Problems". Started to read it and I glazed over at "clutch recycling rate", "dryers" and "clean orifices".

Over the last few years the AC has gotten less and less effective, this year it's gone.

What are the simple things I can do to diagnose or attempt repair? I do a lot of work on my truck, brakes, shocks, under dash stuff, but AC seems to require special tools. How can I check if it just needs a recharge of the refrigerant? I think I remember something about spotting leaks with the aid of a black light?

Can I recharge it myself with one of those $40 kits or is that waste of money/

Thanks for any help.

Nope, those kits are a waste. Sonce you dont want to understand your AC system, take it to a shop thst does. A recharge with dye will be about $120.

 

[MrPulldown]

One thing to add is that simply adding r134a might not have fixed my issue if I did it from the get go. I assume that my R was so low that the compressor was not kicking on. In this case the ac system is essentially open to the atmosphere. Air is now in you ac lines. You can not just push R in on top of air. It needs to be drawn all the way out till the system is a vacuum then filled wit fresh R134a.

 

[TechGuru]

Only way to really know what is going on is to hook up gauges to it...

https://www.harborfreight.com/ac-r134a-manifold-gauge-set-60806.html

Could get a low side only gauge from walmart https://www.walmart.com/ip/Deluxe-R-134a-Recharge-Hose-and-Gauge/16888796 and get a can a straight R134a https://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tech-Refrigerant-R-134a/617476716

Whatever you do do not try adding cans containing leak sealers or oil (unless the oil is PAG46). Buy only pure refrigerant with nothing added. If you need to add oil buy a can of actual PAG46.

 

[Reklaw]

Recoil Rob, That was my thread that you glazed over after you started reading. I agree with imp, get a set of gauges, Harbor Freight is where I got mine. I also agree that it sounds like you have a slow leak.

 

[Recoil Rob]

In the interim I had a buddy that gave me some A/C Pro he had leftover, topped my system off and it's started cooling again but not great. I'm going to pick up a set of gauges and will get back here when I do.

Thanks for the help and encouragement.

RR

 

[TechGuru]

A/C pro has crap additives in it I believe.

Do a vac and refill.

 

[Recoil Rob]

Is this something I can use for the job? Advance autos loans them...

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...m=9150044+OR+9150049+OR+10002087&showTitle=no

 

[lincolnshibuya]

Is this something I can use for the job? Advance autos loans them...

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...m=9150044+OR+9150049+OR+10002087&showTitle=no

no , that's for your coolant...

https://www.harborfreight.com/25-cfm-vacuum-pump-61245.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/ac-r134a-manifold-gauge-set-60806.html

 

[Recoil Rob]

Yep, I'm an idiot, I was in the heating/cooling section.


thanks,

Rob

 

[2Trux]

Most of the parts stores loan out a/c tools including gauges and vacuum pumps. You can get r-134a from e-bay for $5-6 a can.

 

[TechGuru]

Most of the parts stores loan out a/c tools including gauges and vacuum pumps. You can get r-134a from e-bay for $5-6 a can.

Walmart is around $6 a can too. In some areas Big Lots sells them too.

 

[swshawaii]

Another good deal on pure R134A if in stock. Pizza's pretty good too. LOL

https://www.samsclub.com/sams/r134a-refrigerant-6-12-oz-cans/prod20051827.ip?xid=plp:product:1:1

 

[TechGuru]

Sams sells 30lb tanks too.

But have to me a member to shop there.

 

[plasticseng]

I bought the 30 lb tank and this scale:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I9D5IFM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's not what I would use if I were in business, but for occasional personal AC work, it works well.

 

[TechGuru]

Need a scale designed for A/C use so you don't have to do the math on the fly to know how much you've put in...

Does it let you 0 it with the tank on it then start counting negative as you fill? If so that should work...

 

[plasticseng]

It will

Need a scale designed for A/C use so you don't have to do the math on the fly to know how much you've put in...

Does it let you 0 it with the tank on it then start counting negative as you fill? If so that should work...

It will, but I still record a baseline reading because it will occasionally time out and power off. Like I said, it's not something I would use if I was making a living at it, but it works well for the once or twice a year or so I use it.

 

[Recoil Rob]

After calling around the boys at Advanced Auto tell me they have a set of gauges and a pump they loan, will stop by this week. When I have them in hand will be back here.


thanks,

Rob