2002 Transmission bands

[NewGreenie]

My 2002 XLT v6 explorer with 130,000 is slipping when trying to go from 2nd to 3rd gear(at 20 mph). The revs spike up without shfting. I can back off the gas and tap it or going down hill it will catch and I can use the upper gears fine. It has 5R55? not sure if it is E, S, or W.
From scanning the forums I was hoping I coud replace the selonoid to fix it. When I took off the trans pan I fould a 1 inch metal wedge. I believe its an anchor that attaches to the intermitiade band. There was no other metal in the pan. Im thinking of pulling the trans but the biggest problems is I would have to do the work in my driveway. Hopefully someone could help me with the following questions.
1. How high would I have to get it up to pull the trans from underneath? Have 17 inch jack stands that I was thinking of building up using 1 foot pieces of 2 by 12. Might be able to get hold of 24 inch jack stands.
2. How do the anchors attach to the bands? Is it likely the band broke or could the wedge just slipout? Im guess that whatever the wedge anchers to broke.
3.What is the procedure and tools need to get at the bands? Any pictures or links would be helpful. Also anywhere to buy bands or parts? Thanks, Gary

 

[BrooklynBay]

You should have no problem if you use ramps. The band has the tab connected to it, so it's a one piece design. The apply strut presses against the band. The servo applies pressure to engage the band. Check the sticky thread on the top of this section on adjusting the bands. You have a 5R55W transmission. WWW.TransmissionPartsUSA.Com sells them.

 

[brandon_matt02]

My 2002 XLT v6 explorer with 130,000 is slipping when trying to go from 2nd to 3rd gear(at 20 mph). The revs spike up without shfting. I can back off the gas and tap it or going down hill it will catch and I can use the upper gears fine. It has 5R55? not sure if it is E, S, or W.
From scanning the forums I was hoping I coud replace the selonoid to fix it. When I took off the trans pan I fould a 1 inch metal wedge. I believe its an anchor that attaches to the intermitiade band. There was no other metal in the pan. Im thinking of pulling the trans but the biggest problems is I would have to do the work in my driveway. Hopefully someone could help me with the following questions.
1. How high would I have to get it up to pull the trans from underneath? Have 17 inch jack stands that I was thinking of building up using 1 foot pieces of 2 by 12. Might be able to get hold of 24 inch jack stands.
2. How do the anchors attach to the bands? Is it likely the band broke or could the wedge just slipout? Im guess that whatever the wedge anchers to broke.
3.What is the procedure and tools need to get at the bands? Any pictures or links would be helpful. Also anywhere to buy bands or parts? Thanks, Gary

I had the same exact problem, I had 1st, 2nd, no 3rd, but I had 4th. I had just over 110,000 miles on it. I took it to the dealership, because their mechanics work on all of the vehicles at my work(fedex). They said it sounded like it had some worn bands. They took it apart and done pretty much a complete rebuild on my transmission for $1400 with a 12,000 mile/12 mo. warranty. No transmission shop around will warranty an explorer transmission. Also, one thing they didn't have to replace was my solenoid pack. Odd! The initial cause for my transmission failure was an electrical problem. When I had some work done before, one of my o2 sensors wires were not affixed to anything and over time wore a bare spot and began to short out things on my truck. My gauge cluster, my windows, and ultimately my transmission. It just so happened that my transmission needed work. Hope my experience helps.

 

[imp]

No Third Gear

One component is functional ONLY in 3rd. gear: Intermediate Band. imp

 

[Mircury]

Where is this sticky? I can't find it.

I'm having issues with 4th gear. Kinda clunks into gear with good engagement when light to moderate on the throttle. When the throttle is mashed, 4th gear sometimes slips on engagement, RPM goes up 2krpm before full engagement. Could also this be an issue with the 4th gear band or servo?

 

[BrooklynBay]

This link is # 4 in my list of useful threads: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=158160

 

[NewGreenie]

Thanks for the replys. I had time off but the rain slowed everything down. Im still trying to remove the tranny and have been using a Chiltons guide. Somethings dont make sense and I'll list a condensed verison of there procedure and what Ive done with a few questions.
1. Neg battery 2. Remove air filter housing 3.Radiator cover, cooling fan 4. Remove EGH pipe. 5. Attach engine support chains to cylinder head 6.Jack up front 7.Driveshafts 8. Disconnect tran range and oxygen senors, any remaining elect conections 9.Disconnect shift cable from tran 10.Drain ATF 11. Cooler lines 12.Trans mount bolts 13. Jack trans slightly remove crossmember 14. Catalytic con, exhaust shields, starter 15 Work thru starter hole mark converter to driveplate. Rotate crankshaft to remove nuts thru inspection hole. 16. Trans to engine bolt. 17 Lower trans.
This what I have done.
1. Front end up on ramps. 2.Used jack and block to support engine. I dont have chains or engine crane. 3.Removed drive shafts 4. Disconnected oxygens sensers and all catalytic bolts except 1 stuck at exhaust man. 5. Remove Pass side heatshield bolts and driver side bolt to crossmember.
Q1. I skipped 2, 3, 4 above. Why would I have to take out air housing, cooling fan etc.?
Q2. Shift cable has an upper bracket and lower section with wires. Upper is just 2 bolts. Should I remove the whole lower section or just unplug conection?
Q3. Removed drivers side heat shield to crossmember bolt. Does whole shield need to be removed? Seems to have plenty of clarence for trany.
Q4. Removing converter to drive plate? Will I be able to get thru starter and how do I rotate crankshaft?
Thanks for any help and suggestions.

 

[NewGreenie]

I got the transmission out and moved to my basement so I can try to get at the intermediate bands. I have a good guide for rebuilding a 5R55W. I had thought I could just unbolt things at the bell housing and just remove parts till I got to the bands. It looks like the center support screw needs to come out which means removing the pan, filter ect. to get access to the screw from the body. Does that sound right?
1. Do any of the other external parts need to come off if Im just trying to get at the bands and not do a total rebuild?
2. Next would be trying to get the pump out. I dont have a puller and online they cost $190 or so. Whats the best way to get the pump out? Would auto zone have them to loan or could I use a different tool(s) to remove it?
3.The adjustment bands bolts need to be loosened, but its a square nut. Any thing good for that?
4.Last are there any other tool that I should have?

 

[BrooklynBay]

The center support bolt is under the valve body. You have to remove everything in order to replace the bands. Do you have a spline drive or inverted Torx socket? They would work on a square head.

 

[NewGreenie]

Thanks Brooklyn Bay for the help. Today I took the pan off. Then took everything off till I could get to the center support bolt which I loosened. With the valve body off I could see where the anchor should have been attached to. There was a broken end piece of the belt with the hook end and about 1/4 inch of belt which I removed.
Now I need to find a way to get the pump out so I can get at the internal parts.
1. I didn't take the 3 sensors or shift cable lever off yet. Will they have to come off?
2.The adjusting bolts I backed out for now by just loosing the lock nut. How loose should I get them? Or should I just back them out completely?
Thanks Again

 

[BrooklynBay]

Since the transmission will have to be taken apart anyway, it doesn't make a difference if you take all of these parts off. You could leave the sensors in place. The lever has to come off if you want to replace the shift lever seal. The adjusting studs could come out most of the way, but the remaining adjusting struts will fall out.