2002 XLT 4.6 Coolant Leak | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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2002 XLT 4.6 Coolant Leak

Hi Kyoshi71,

I will look into your suggestion. If I can do this for less than the $600 OEM kit I was quoted from a local Ford "stealership", I will likely try tackling this myself. I would prefer to use Ford parts but $600 is a big price tag.

I appreciate the tip on Tousley Ford. I'll keep you posted.

Thanks again!
Michael

You'll certainly be able to do it for less than $600 (if you call Tousley)
I did mine for about $300 (with everything I needed + shipping)
 



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Kyoshi71,

Good am. R u willing to do a side job? Coz i live near your area. Also do you have the number for Bear of Tousley Ford? Thanks for all the help.
 






Kyoshi71,

Good am. R u willing to do a side job? Coz i live near your area. Also do you have the number for Bear of Tousley Ford? Thanks for all the help.

No Side jobs for me brotha!!! But I'll try to help out from here as much as possible.
800-328-9552 is the number for Tousey Ford. Ask for "BEAR"..Great guy.
 






It appears that I am actually leaking coolant from a hole in the aluminum crossover itself. The hole it on the backside of the housing coolant inlet. I'll need to look really carefully one more time just to make sure its not the mating surface with the intake manifold but I'm pretty sure.

If there is in fact a hole in the crossover, what's everyone's view on using a product like Lab-Metal to repair the hole? I think it would be fine for this application but I have no experience using this type of "epoxy".

Here are a few of its claims:
-Adheres to any clean and dry metal, wood, glass, porcelain, or hard plastic surface
-Once hardened, it can be milled, drilled, tapped, sawed, filed or sanded
-Not affected by mild acids, gasoline, oil or petroleum based solvents
-Rustproof, water resistant
-Withstands temperatures as high as 350 deg. F (177 deg. C)
-Will not shrink, chip, crack, peel or pop out under normal conditions
 






It appears that I am actually leaking coolant from a hole in the aluminum crossover itself. The hole it on the backside of the housing coolant inlet. I'll need to look really carefully one more time just to make sure its not the mating surface with the intake manifold but I'm pretty sure.

If there is in fact a hole in the crossover, what's everyone's view on using a product like Lab-Metal to repair the hole? I think it would be fine for this application but I have no experience using this type of "epoxy".

Here are a few of its claims:
-Adheres to any clean and dry metal, wood, glass, porcelain, or hard plastic surface
-Once hardened, it can be milled, drilled, tapped, sawed, filed or sanded
-Not affected by mild acids, gasoline, oil or petroleum based solvents
-Rustproof, water resistant
-Withstands temperatures as high as 350 deg. F (177 deg. C)
-Will not shrink, chip, crack, peel or pop out under normal conditions

There are a lot of products out there that make those claims. Personally, I would not want to trust a road trip, work, or even an emergency to something like that.

If you HAD to use that stuff for whatever reason, I would only trust it if you could hit both sides of the hole for added strength and that would require taking the manifold off anyway. And unless there was a major casting flaw in the first runner/ crossover pipe, it's highly unlikely that a hole developed in the aluminum, no?? If it is the mating surface between the crossover pipe and the manifold, there is no fix for that. Manifold needs to be replaced.
 






Got a better look at my leak just now and I think it's just like most everyone elses here. I snapped a couple photos after I took out the thermostat. First pic shows the inside where the thermostat sits. I noticed there is a piece of rubber sticking out on the backside.

ThermHousing.jpg


I can push in on the rubber gasket whatever thing and see it move on the external backside of the housing, right where it leaks from. Is this piece out of place? Thus the the source of my leak? Or is this how everyone else's is?

Here is another pic looking straight down on the backside where the coolant is leaking.

Backofhousing.jpg


I wonder if while replacing the thermostat a few weeks back, this seal slipped out of place. The two top screws for the outlet actually go all the way down and tighten to the intake.

Can anyone tell me anything about that rubber piece? Is there a coolant path there as well?
 






I have to say (unfortunately) those are some great shots and will probably help a lot of folk understand what we are all yammering about. Looks to me like you're going to need a new manifold. Like I've previously stated, don't, don't, don't use the Dorman manifold sold at the local parts house. Get genuine OEM Ford. After tons of checking, Tousley Ford's prices were way better than anyone else. Depending on the build date of your truck, you may/may not need the alternator bracket. They will be able to tell you by the VIN. Ask for "Bear". Great guy and very knowledgeable.

Also, (and I'm only suggesting this because I don't know you) if you are going to do the job by yourself, have a decent 3/8" drive torque wrench on hand and a few universal joint extenders. The back of the manifold is a pain in the as if you don't. Probably a good idea to change your plugs, water pump and belt (if any have not been changed) while you're in there.
 






I was browsing around Tousley's website and came across this. I have yet to find this part by itself ANYWHERE else. Do you think the housing can be replaced without replacing the whole manifold? It's only half the price at $122.69

see number 6:

http://tousleyfordparts.com/parts/2...leid=1377671&diagram=MF02115&diagramCallOut=1

MF02115.gif



EDIT: I looked a little deeper and I think the piece that broke is actually part of the manifold itself. Not the crossover...:(
 






I was browsing around Tousley's website and came across this. I have yet to find this part by itself ANYWHERE else. Do you think the housing can be replaced without replacing the whole manifold? It's only half the price at $122.69

see number 6:

http://tousleyfordparts.com/parts/2...leid=1377671&diagram=MF02115&diagramCallOut=1

MF02115.gif



EDIT: I looked a little deeper and I think the piece that broke is actually part of the manifold itself. Not the crossover...:(

I do NOT think you can replace that part (or the gasket for that matter) on a 2002 Explorer.
 






I got my new intake manifold from Tousley this week and am about to do the job. Does anyone know what the manifold bolts are torqued to?
 
























just replaced my intake manifold due to a slow coolant leak, looks worst than I thought. The gasket is intact, it's the manifold that's broken.

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.360434580691366.78120.110528882348605&type=3


Took me almost 4hrs to remove it, the weather is so hot that I have to take breaks (and drink lots of fluid) and another 4hrs including the coolant bleeding. Kind of slow but I made sure it starts the first time. If I followed Haynes or the service manual it will take longer since they tell you to remove everything.



-----------------------------------------------------------
MY MOUNTY
http://www.facebook.com/diyfordexplorer?sk=photos
 






Are you kidding me? Bad wheel bearings. Whining noise from the rear end. Plastic inner strut arm sockets. Lug nut covers that crack under torque and fall off. Rebuilt tranny. Ejecting spark plugs...and now a coolant leak that sounds like bad intake head gaskets, and or cracked PLASTIC thermostat housing?
Original owner, maintained, '05 X 4wd Limited, 150k
I swear to God, this is the last "FIX OR REPAIR DAILY" I will own!
I can't believe all the idiotic problems with this vehicle. I just want to drive it. Tired of worrying about what the hell will go wrong next.
I thought FORD improved their quality since being such an engineering joke in the 60's, but I see it's still alive and well in this day and age. There is just no excuse for this.
Well, now that I've vented, back to finding out where all my coolant is going.
 






My 02 xlt is pouring out coolant at the #8 intake bolt (passenger side front) right below the water outlet for the heater control valve. Long story short... Timing guide went south plugged up the oil pump and trashed the right side head. So I long blocked it from powertrain products. So heads clean, gaskets new and I torqued it to 18 lbs-ft as specified on the manifold and in sequence per the Haynes manual. My intake is aluminum and plastic. Any ideas guys???
 






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