2003 Explorer Transmission solenoid and overdrive servo

[BrooklynBay]

Several people have mentioned how they were chasing codes for a long time, and replaced just about everything, and it didn't help. They inspected the internal wiring harness, and found either cracked insulation or wires with intermittent electrical breaks. Test each wire for continuity from point to point. First check the harness from the outside for the connection of the solenoid which has been throwing the code. The solenoid should show a resistance reading if you are using a multimeter. The harness has to be unplugged for this kind of test.

 

[bodiea]

Thanks!

I will certainly try that then. I am not getting any codes whatsoever from either my OBD II reader or from any auto place with or without the light flashing.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Not all scanners are capable of reading these kind of codes. A transmission shop would have one of those more expensive scanners for this. Some places might even read the codes for free if they assume that you are going to give them a rebuild job. You should always find out in advance what they charge. What kind of scanner did you use to scan it until now?

 

[bodiea]

I have just a regular OBD II scanner. I took it to Autozone and Advance Auto and they read it with there's which is different and neither came up with any codes. I will call around and see what any tranny shops around here charge to read the code.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Check WWW.ATRA.Com. You could search for a transmission shop in your area.

 

[bodiea]

Maybe Electrical?

I'm beginning to think it may be electrical? Drove it to the office today-35 miles each way. Light came on 3 miles into the trip on the way in. Did not come on until 24 miles into the trip home and then went back off 6 miles later? Crazy Transmission! Will look at checking the continuity later this week.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Did you have any luck with it yet?

 

[bodiea]

Haven't had time to get back to work on it since putting the servo's in. Hopefully I will this week. I did manage to get by Summit Racing and get a drain plug kit. I've been driving it, and the OD light only comes on sporadically now and goes back off after just a few miles?

 

[2003FordTroubles]

Replaced engine now transmission issues

Hi All, My 2003 Explorer XLT 4x4, 4.0 77K miles driven lightly and never towed..Had a problem with the transmission not coming out of 1st gear unless I let off the gas pedal and kind of manually shifted it with the gas pedal and it would not go in to overdrive(5th). Then the overdrive light started to flash and it threw a service engine light. I went to auto zone to get the code read and it said P0775 and another code that said 5th gear ratio wrong. After reading these threads I replaced the solenoid in the trans and it did the same with no repair. I talked to a Ford tech at the local dealer and he said to replace the overdrive servo and adjust the band. I got him to do it and he update the trans programming and now it is back to new. I wish I knew if it was fixed before the reprogrammed was done but he did it all at one time. I wrote this thread because I was told by the dealer earlier and a trans shop that they would have to pull the trans for more testing or a rebuild which was expensive. The overdrive servo was done in 2 hours or less and only cost $30.00 for the parts and I gave the tech 200.00 for labor and the reprogram. I was going to do the servo myself but thought for 150.00 labor he new what to do if something went wrong(which I don't with transmissions).
I hope this may help others with these symptoms like mine, he said this is now common.

I found this post and I'm having the same issues with the transmission. I just had my 2003 Ford Explorer 4x4 4.6 engine replaced by a body shop. It broke down three different times with only putting 250 miles on it. This last time, aside from the body shop replacing some coil acting like a distributor cap, the overdrive light also flashes and I can manually shift. The body shop is telling me it's not their problem. What's also strange is that there's no engine service light on however the overdrive light starts flashing after 5 minutes of driving. My question is, could this body shop that put the new/used engine in have caused my current transmission problem? I see that the transmission had to be reprogramed in Denalijoe's case. Is this a step that should have been performed when the engine was replaced? I just dropped off to transmission shop for 2nd opinion and waiting for a diagnosis... Anyone have any thoughts about my circumstance?

 

[bodiea]

I'm still driving with O/D flashing for almost 2 years!

LOL. Yes it's true and I'm ashamed but I have been driving my 2000 Explorer with a 5r5ee tranny (4wd) since November 2008 with the o/d flashing. I have adjusted the bands, changed the servos, rebuilt the valve body, replaced the wiring harness and all solenoids to no avail. I drove it like this since 08' with it flashing after only 2-3 miles. So, since I'm not a mechanic I'm sure there's something I'm missing. About a month ago my tachometer stopped working, I changed the VSS and the TPS. Did not fix the tach problem though. Somedays it jumps up and down past the redline mark, but the engine doesnt rev up that high. And I did take thee instrument cluster out and check everything as well.Now when it stops jumping around it stays at 3000 rpm mark. But now the o/d flashing is not a constant thing as before and some days I can drive with no problems and others 20-30 miles before it occurs. So is it possible it's a computer issue? Can I buy a used computer and just swap them out? Can the computer also affect the tach working?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Find out what the code numbers are for the flashing O/D light issue.

 

[Pontisteve]

You said a body shop installed an engine. Is that to mean that there maybe was a wreck or some repainting involved? ECU grounds don't lend themselves well to being painted and reinstalled.

It certainly could be a computer issue, or even a bad PCM. Did the body shop weld on your vehicle with the PCM installed? Welding, especially TIG welding, wreaks havoc on computers. Try to establish a pattern of when your problems first began, what the symptoms are, and what was done to the vehicle just prior to the problems beginning. Even seemingly minor things could be important clues.

I would also hook up a scan tool to it, and have a look at all the data you can. See if any readings don't make sense, or work perfectly but randomly go nuts. If you don't have a scan tool capable of reading live OBD2 datastream, consider buying a new or used SCT Xcal2 or Xcal3. These flash tools (designed for custom PCM tuning) have some of the most powerful datalogging you'll ever see. When combined with a laptop, these things provide silly amounts of data on anything the computer is thinking. And they can be super cost effective, compared to a scan tool.

 

[Ta2MikeP]

Something real quick. Reprogramming the computer of an Explorer. Do NOT pay for this. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. This resets the computer to factory settings, clearing all codes stored in the computer.

Step 2- Start the vehicle and let idle for 5 minutes. Turn on air conditioner to MAX setting, allow to run for additional 5 minutes. These 2 steps reset the computer to low idle and loaded idle conditions.

Step 3- Drive vehicle under normal conditions. i.e. city and highway driving.


These 3 step reprogram the vehicles computer

 

[Ta2MikeP]

I have been dealing with several issues with the trans of my 03 Exploder.

Here is all that I have found.

When the O/D light begins to flash. FIX THESE: servo bore, servo pistons, and shift controller module.

Lastly, drop the pan, ditch all of the old fluid. If there is more than a light film of 'goo' on the magnet in the trans pan, save yourself some money and have the O/D - 3rd band and intermediate band replaced.

All of the simple fixes are not going to stop the wear of the bands once it has started.

Most of these fixes can be done in your driveway, sans the band replacements. That requires the pump assembly to be removed to allow access to the bands and forward clutch assembly. If your alignment is not correct, or proper torque not applied you are in for more expensive repairs.

I am now replacing the trans on my 03. Thanks to Ford and their wonderful design. Had I discovered this website a bit over a year ago I would have saved myself a few thousand dollars in repairs to all the other stuff that has given my Exploder such a wonderful vacation in the back yard.

 

[Pontisteve]

Something real quick. Reprogramming the computer of an Explorer. Do NOT pay for this. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. This resets the computer to factory settings, clearing all codes stored in the computer.

Step 2- Start the vehicle and let idle for 5 minutes. Turn on air conditioner to MAX setting, allow to run for additional 5 minutes. These 2 steps reset the computer to low idle and loaded idle conditions.

Step 3- Drive vehicle under normal conditions. i.e. city and highway driving.


These 3 step reprogram the vehicles computer

Perhaps I'm just fussing about your terminology here, but disconnecting the battery will not reprogram your computer. Reprogramming your computer will reprogram your computer. And this is done by reflashing the PCM with a J2534 device, such as Fords IDS scan tool, a Mongoose cable, or other J2534 programming devices on the market, including the SCT aftermarket flash programmer.

Removing the negative battery terminal will erase the keep-alive memory, which consists of any codes set and any adaptive memory (things the computer learned to do better than the original program would have). For example, if your computer learned that adding 2% fuel made the fuel curve perfect, then that is retained in the keep alive memory. Erasing this memory be disconnecting the battery just eliminates all that was learned and starts the process over again.

Finally, when a computer is reset (by either clearing codes or disconnecting the battery), there is a drive cycle that must be completed in order for all the emissions monitors to work correctly. The car needs to be warmed up and driven, decelerating from 60 to 40 mph without hitting the brakes, three times. But generally speaking, just driving the car normally in town and on the highway some will eventually accomplish this. Doing the drive cycle accomplishes it faster, and makes the car ready for emissions testing.

 

[Ta2MikeP]

Steve,

Thanks for the clarification. The entire drive cycle is not something that was explained to me from the dealer. All that was explained was the city and highway driving. It was told to me that you could not reprogram the computer. (Some people lie, or just do not knw everything.)Either way, thanks.

Any idea on where I can get this programming tool and the book on how to use it properly?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Contact James from Henson Performance. He's a vendor on this site.

 

[Pontisteve]

The OEM type reprogramming tools can be had from vendors of Drew Technologies Mongoose cable. A google search can find one of those few vendors.

Ford provides the OEM updates, and you can buy access to this service on the motorcraft website. The sweet part there is that you can buy "short term" service for like $26, or monthly for $65. The down side to this setup is just the $480 mongoose cable.

The aftermarket stuff can reprogram the pcm, but you would either need a tuner to give you a tune file, or to buy the pro racer software that lets you adjust your own stuff... basically. At least as far as transmission modifications go.

 

[Ta2MikeP]

Any idea who there might be in the Nashville area that can help with the reprogramming?
I just got a rebuilt trans, did the install, and now there is some hesitation that was not there before. As well, I am also having a new issue with slugishness in the trans shifting, it does not want to maintain speed if the vehicle is on an incline. I am about ready to call it quits on this thing, over $10,ooo in parts and labor in the last year.

 

[Pontisteve]

You may need more of a mechanic than a tuner. Rebuidling the trans shouldn't require a reflash, only modifying parameters should. That said, if you decide that you need custom reprogramming, check out sctflash.com to locate a tuner in your area.