2004 Rear "Window" Hatch Won't Unlock, but Hatch WILL?

[Lissgrl119]

Hi all!

SO. I have a stock 2004 Ford Explorer XLS. My rear hatch has the top window portion, which will NOT unlock. Whether I use the button release on the door itself, or the release on the keyless remote. It refuses to budge. If I use the remote, I can HEAR the actuator attempt to engage, though its very slow/delayed. The hatch itself will lock/unlock and open seamlessly, just not the window portion.

It's honestly been like this for a couple years now, but I've made due without it. Now it's time to take care of my baby and fix a lot of the little issues that I finally have time to get to.

HELP!

I'm having a hard time finding any info on this issue, let alone the replacement part. Since the lock sounds delayed, my assumption is the actuator. Are there separate actuators for the rear hatch?? One for the window and one for the hatch itself? Or is it just one and perhaps I have a broken arm that needs replacing. Again, the door locks/unlocks perfectly, it's just the window portion that is problematic. Since it's been years I've also ordered new struts for the window when I'm actually able to open it and can replace them.

Any help or point in the right direction is greatly appreciated!!


Larissa

 

[joney]

Hi all!

SO. I have a stock 2004 Ford Explorer XLS. My rear hatch has the top window portion, which will NOT unlock. Whether I use the button release on the door itself, or the release on the keyless remote. It refuses to budge. If I use the remote, I can HEAR the actuator attempt to engage, though its very slow/delayed. The hatch itself will lock/unlock and open seamlessly, just not the window portion.

It's honestly been like this for a couple years now, but I've made due without it. Now it's time to take care of my baby and fix a lot of the little issues that I finally have time to get to.

HELP!

I'm having a hard time finding any info on this issue, let alone the replacement part. Since the lock sounds delayed, my assumption is the actuator. Are there separate actuators for the rear hatch?? One for the window and one for the hatch itself? Or is it just one and perhaps I have a broken arm that needs replacing. Again, the door locks/unlocks perfectly, it's just the window portion that is problematic. Since it's been years I've also ordered new struts for the window when I'm actually able to open it and can replace them.

Any help or point in the right direction is greatly appreciated!!


Larissa

My Explorer is a 98, but same problem kind of. I hear nothing when I try to open the hatch window, with the key. You said you heard it trying to engage, but delayed...I think both of us will have to remove the inner panel on the hatch and see the latches for ourselves. I have some WD-40 I'll probably try first...but since nothing happens, I wonder if someone knows where the relays are for the back hatch windows. Couldn't find an exact answer. Edit: I did find this thread here on the site, it's on a '99 but ours may work the same. Hatch panel removal.

 

[SyberTiger]

There's a plastic part at the end of the cable shield that keeps the cable taut that may have broke. If it did then the result is the same as if the cable had stretched. See below, the plastic piece circled in red likely cracked and is not long holding the cable taut

 

[joney]

There's a plastic part at the end of the cable shield that keeps the cable taut that may have broke. If it did then the result is the same as if the cable had stretched. See below, the plastic piece circled in red likely cracked and is not long holding the cable taut

View attachment 330064

Very helpful pic and explanation! It so looks like the cables on my bicycle! IF that turns out to be the problem, I'd be tempted to put the tiny clamp on the wire that's used on bicycle cables, to keep the cable at its proper length pre-activation. Thanks!

 

[4rd Xplora]

Older thread, but I had the same problem on my '05. Had to attach two plastic zip ties to the end of the cable (under the ball that's shown in the picture just above the circled part) to take up the slack in the cable. Been a little over two years and still working. Basically, I had used the same procedure to repair a stretched accelerator cable on my '96.