2005 Explorer 4.0 Sputters and Stalls | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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2005 Explorer 4.0 Sputters and Stalls

runner9

Member
Joined
November 30, 2017
Messages
23
Reaction score
1
City, State
waynesboro pa.
Year, Model & Trim Level
2013 Explorer Sport
I have a 2005 Explorer with a 4.0 starts and runs fine when it is cold after it is warmed up and I shut it off if I try to restart it while it is still warm it sputters and stalls like there is no fuel. I have replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, plugs , wires and coil pack still the same. I replaced the fuel pressure sensor about 1 month ago. I'm not sure where to loo next ? Any help would be appreciated .
 



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I have a 2005 Explorer with a 4.0 starts and runs fine when it is cold after it is warmed up and I shut it off if I try to restart it while it is still warm it sputters and stalls like there is no fuel. I have replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, plugs , wires and coil pack still the same. I replaced the fuel pressure sensor about 1 month ago. I'm not sure where to loo next ? Any help would be appreciated .
By that, you mean Fuel Pressure and Temperature Sensor? Under the upper intake manifold?

Checked for codes? Did they indicate FPTS? If no code for it, I would still lean towards replacing the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) for the helluvit. imp
 






I had a p0193 code when I replaced the sensor on the drivers side fuel rail. I currently have no codes. I will try the ECT . Was wondering if my problem might be the ECM ?
 






I replaced the ECT and it is still the same , starts goes up to about 1300 rpm sputters and stalls.
 






I replaced the ECT and it is still the same , starts goes up to about 1300 rpm sputters and stalls.
You might try cleaning the throttle plate. Remove the inlet ductwork, and you will see the throttle plate. Along it's bottom edge, look for a heavy, black build-up of sticky carbon-like residue. Note also, that at rest, the plate is NOT fully closed. It is held slightly open, just a crack, against the spring force which closes it during operation. You can open the plate using your fingers, and if very dirty, clean it with carburetor cleaner and a small brush.

Your system uses "drive by wire", which means the throttle plate is opened by an electric motor instead of a foot-controlled cable. As such, it is prone to unique problems, as one Japanese manufacturer found out the hard way. The computer forces the plate fully closed each time the key is turned to ON, checks the output of the position sensor, confirms it is correct, then allows the throttle to open for starting purposes. Just a thought about the dirt build-up. imp
 






I disassembled and cleaned the throttle body today, while I had the air intake tube off I had a helper turn the switch on and off to see what the throttle body was doing. when the switch was turned on it went shut then went back to where it was prior to turning on the switch I had them push the pedal to the floor and it opened all the way. I had them start it and while it was sputtering push the pedal and nothing happened. Is there a way to check the fuel pressure ? just seems like there is no fuel when I start it while it is hot . when I attempt to start it goes to about 1300 rpm sputters and stalls, if I can get it in gear and moving it will straighten out and run fine .
 






I disassembled and cleaned the throttle body today, while I had the air intake tube off I had a helper turn the switch on and off to see what the throttle body was doing. when the switch was turned on it went shut then went back to where it was prior to turning on the switch I had them push the pedal to the floor and it opened all the way. I had them start it and while it was sputtering push the pedal and nothing happened. Is there a way to check the fuel pressure ? just seems like there is no fuel when I start it while it is hot . when I attempt to start it goes to about 1300 rpm sputters and stalls, if I can get it in gear and moving it will straighten out and run fine .
You've confirmed the T.B. is functioning properly, at least as far as we know how to check it. Get it in gear and moving, it runs fine? Puzzling.

Fuel pressure is checked using a gauge. I forget where/if the 3rd. gens have a Schrader Valve, the typical tire-valve stem looking protrusion on the fuel rail usually, where a gauge may be screwed on. Another thought is that a problem with the returnless fuel system, i.e., failure to properly respond to data from the PCM (ECM) is not allowing normal return to fuel pressure demand after eng. reaches normal operating temperature. The Fuel Pump Control Module function which was previously a separate module, was replaced ~ 2004, and incorporated in the PCM. So, now, many previous faults caused by various modules reporting to the PCM, have become a part of the brain. Possible that your PCM is at fault, a not easy thing to confirm. Wish I could offer you more.............imp
 






Thanks for the info . I tried starting it with the MAF sensor unplugged had the same results . I removed the air intake hose and sprayed starting fluid in the throttle body and if I get it in gear and moving before the starting fluid burned out it would take off and go . may need a ECM really don't know what else to try .
 






Just an update. I replaced the new fuel pressure temp. sensor with the one I had removed and the problem was gone. CEL is back on but it starts and runs fine so I guess I got a bad sensor online. thanks for the help.
 






Just an update. I replaced the new fuel pressure temp. sensor with the one I had removed and the problem was gone. CEL is back on but it starts and runs fine so I guess I got a bad sensor online. thanks for the help.
Is the fuel pressure temp sensor on top of the engine block, underneath the air intake manifold? Or can I get to this without lifting up the manifold? Ugh!!! Thanks!
 






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