Don Wilson
New Member
- Joined
- September 18, 2017
- Messages
- 8
- Reaction score
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- City, State
- State College
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2020 ST/2005 XLT Sport
New DIY forum member here. Not sure where to post.
2005 Ford Explorer XLT-Sport, 4.6l 2V, VIN W, 375k miles, 100% (always) Motorcraft 5-20W blend & FL820s, often, like 20% remaining life.
Wanted to install oil pressure gauge (dash mounted) because of suspected low oil pressure, especially on startup. Such a pain to get to install a ‘Tee’ without puling stuff off… I figured it’s really time to pull this apart and have a peek anyway.
In addition to a Local driver truck, I have a 450-mile (weekly) trip vehicle (200-mile one way). I’m starting to notice a Cyl 5 (maybe 6) knock only on daily driver short stop-start errands (<5 miles). Sounds like maybe lash adjuster/rocker related (without pulling cover). Sometimes goes away if I do enough short errands. But definitely goes away after longer trip. Not noticeable even at idle for long periods during or after a longer running period.
Have noticed random information center 'blips' of low oil pressure on starting maybe once in 2-3 months. It goes by so quick it can’t be read except being glued to the display. Even then, the entire message can't be read.
Suspecting the common issues with tensioners/pieces and with 375k on it, figure its time. Thought about 5-30W and see how that goes. But I need to fix the coolant leak because I’m starting small fluctuations in temperature. So why not just throw money at all of it at once.
Going to pull the front cover, do chains, tensioners, water pump, intake gaskets – or aftermarket new intake (leaking coolant ~ 1 cup per 2 weeks), Cyl 5/6 lash adjusters, filter adapter seal, and eventually pan gasket because I get a few drops from it, too. Figured I could inspect/remove plastic pieces from pan/pickup using Snake Cam (with hooks) through the opening the cover makes. Or- pull the pan at the same time. (It's just a lot more work pulling axles, carrier, and other braces and bars).
Just bought a M176HV to go along with a timing rebuild, etc. Base question: Should I consider installing the lower pressure spring in my case? Should I be concerned with the higher volume/pressure with the mileage? Or is it worn enough to need this extra pressure? Sorry, I know the measurement is key.
Any advice would help.
Edited: 2024-03-12, added sound file and a video (mp4), too.
Is this chain slap - or does it sound like rockers? What makes me thing it's not chain slap is it goes away on a 200 mile trip and is quit upon starting it. It inly occurs again (randomly) if I do a short 2-3 mile trip, shut it off, and it's there when I start it. that makes me think it's squeezing the oil out of a lash adjuster (or two or three) and doesn't recover until there's sufficient sustained oil pressure (from 2200 rpm form my 3hr trip).
2005 Ford Explorer XLT-Sport, 4.6l 2V, VIN W, 375k miles, 100% (always) Motorcraft 5-20W blend & FL820s, often, like 20% remaining life.
Wanted to install oil pressure gauge (dash mounted) because of suspected low oil pressure, especially on startup. Such a pain to get to install a ‘Tee’ without puling stuff off… I figured it’s really time to pull this apart and have a peek anyway.
In addition to a Local driver truck, I have a 450-mile (weekly) trip vehicle (200-mile one way). I’m starting to notice a Cyl 5 (maybe 6) knock only on daily driver short stop-start errands (<5 miles). Sounds like maybe lash adjuster/rocker related (without pulling cover). Sometimes goes away if I do enough short errands. But definitely goes away after longer trip. Not noticeable even at idle for long periods during or after a longer running period.
Have noticed random information center 'blips' of low oil pressure on starting maybe once in 2-3 months. It goes by so quick it can’t be read except being glued to the display. Even then, the entire message can't be read.
Suspecting the common issues with tensioners/pieces and with 375k on it, figure its time. Thought about 5-30W and see how that goes. But I need to fix the coolant leak because I’m starting small fluctuations in temperature. So why not just throw money at all of it at once.
Going to pull the front cover, do chains, tensioners, water pump, intake gaskets – or aftermarket new intake (leaking coolant ~ 1 cup per 2 weeks), Cyl 5/6 lash adjusters, filter adapter seal, and eventually pan gasket because I get a few drops from it, too. Figured I could inspect/remove plastic pieces from pan/pickup using Snake Cam (with hooks) through the opening the cover makes. Or- pull the pan at the same time. (It's just a lot more work pulling axles, carrier, and other braces and bars).
Just bought a M176HV to go along with a timing rebuild, etc. Base question: Should I consider installing the lower pressure spring in my case? Should I be concerned with the higher volume/pressure with the mileage? Or is it worn enough to need this extra pressure? Sorry, I know the measurement is key.
Any advice would help.
Edited: 2024-03-12, added sound file and a video (mp4), too.
Is this chain slap - or does it sound like rockers? What makes me thing it's not chain slap is it goes away on a 200 mile trip and is quit upon starting it. It inly occurs again (randomly) if I do a short 2-3 mile trip, shut it off, and it's there when I start it. that makes me think it's squeezing the oil out of a lash adjuster (or two or three) and doesn't recover until there's sufficient sustained oil pressure (from 2200 rpm form my 3hr trip).
