2005 Explorer XLT like new, has not been started or run in 3 to 4 years.

[jh_masterson]

This is my first post here so if I do something wrong or something that is frowned upon I do apologize for it now.

I have been gifted a 2005 Ford Explorer XLT that was my wife's uncles pride and joy. It is in preteen condition. He took it to the dealer for everything it needed and it only has a little over 40,000 original miles on it. But there is a few flies in the ointment.

Unfortunately he passed away 3 to 4 years ago and had to go through probate so all this time it has been parked at my wife's mom's house in her very clean garage. So my wife's mom decided that it would be best to give it to me. So that's how it became mine.

I live in California about 90 minutes north of LA in Palmdale and the Explorer is about 75 minutes south west of me. So California DMV laws apply and this Explorer has not been registered since the owner passed away and it was not no opted and AAA have a new policy that they will not tow a vehicle that is not registered. So I am going to have to get temporary registration to get it home but it has not been started or ran since the owner passed also.

Now I know the battery is dead and I am replacing that. But what else needs to be done before trying to drive it the 80 miles home. It has fuel but not much t least I don't think. Has it turned to lacquer by now? Is there additives that I can put in the gas tank? Or do I have to drain the fuel lines and tank and clean them or it will clog them.

Also what about the oil, trans fluid, brake fluid and antifreeze/ engine coolant.

Any suggestions or facts and experiences you know about or heard about will be a lot of help to me.

Thank you jh_masterson

 

[lincolnshibuya]

you don't really want to start it with 3 or 4 yr old fluids in there, worst case if the cylinder walls have rust due to moisture. To be safe I'd replace the oil, coolant, brake fluid, old gas, oil filter. Check the brakes and tires. Before starting that engine you need to pull the plugs out and put some oil to at least lubricate the cylinder walls if there are some rust build up... good luck..

 

[mountaineer2004]

You should rent a flatbed to get it to where you live. Then follow the advice above.

 

[IPcamper]

I agree with Mountaineer2004, get it to where you can take some time with it. Remove the engine cover and look for mice nests among the wiring! Check the injection harness and the leads to the COPS. Check the air filter hosing for nests and check to be sure the hose to the throttle body isn't cracked. Change oil, and coolant, pull the plugs and mist the cylinders with oil. After you have changed the fluids and put clean gas in it, pull the fuse for the fuel pump and crank the engine for 2 or 3 - ten second intervals to build up some oil pressure, this will ensure the tensioners are tight and help lube the timing chains. If the fuel is bad, then you will need to pump it out of the tank and change the fuel filter. Might even need to clean the injectors.

After you get the engine running, then you change the brake fluid, transmission, differential, transfer case oils, and do any other work it needs.

Does California have a state inspection before registering the vehicle? if it does get a list of what they inspect and go through the list yourself. It will save you the cost of of having the inspection shop offering to fix it for you.

 

[TechGuru]

Do you or anyone you know have a 3/4 or 1 ton pickup truck? If yes rent a UHaul auto transport to put it on. You'll need to use a winch to get it on it if you don't want to start it which I wouldn't without doing the above things on it.

 

[jh_masterson]

I agree with Mountaineer2004, get it to where you can take some time with it. Remove the engine cover and look for mice nests among the wiring! Check the injection harness and the leads to the COPS. Check the air filter hosing for nests and check to be sure the hose to the throttle body isn't cracked. Change oil, and coolant, pull the plugs and mist the cylinders with oil. After you have changed the fluids and put clean gas in it, pull the fuse for the fuel pump and crank the engine for 2 or 3 - ten second intervals to build up some oil pressure, this will ensure the tensioners are tight and help lube the timing chains. If the fuel is bad, then you will need to pump it out of the tank and change the fuel filter. Might even need to clean the injectors.

After you get the engine running, then you change the brake fluid, transmission, differential, transfer case oils, and do any other work it needs.
Does California have a state inspection before registering the vehicle? if it does get a list of what they inspect and go through the list yourself. It will save you the cost of of having the inspection shop offering to fix it for you.

See here is my problem I have been disabled since 2002 and living on a union disability pension and Social Security Disability so my budget is very low. And I do most all my own mechanic work. With great success I might add.
Ok is it possible to disconnect the fuel line at the intake manifold which I am assuming is a high pressure connection after I get the other fluid replaced and oil the cylinder through the spark plug ports, to use the fuel pump to pump out the old fuel. Or dose the tank have a drain port like a petcock or some thing easy to access. Because I just changed my fuel pump on my 98 Dodge Ram 1500 and had to use my engine hoist to lift he bed off to get to it which was a challenge to do by myself.. But I got it done.
Or another option I thought if you think it's doable is , I have a generic electric fuel pump for my old boat that I could hook up like a syphon hose through the fill up tube. That way if the fuel is breaking down it won't go through the filter or even ruin the pump?
Let me know if any of those sound possible.
I really appreciate all the your input.

 

[TechGuru]

How much fuel is in it? If it's low, just dilute it with fresh by topping it off. The tank holds 22 gallons IIRC. Is this a 4.0L FlexFuel? I'd top it off with E85 as it will absorb any moisture and clean everything out.

After re-reading your origional post, I think a new batt (Get Motorcraft, OReilly's has them), and top it up with E85 if it's flex otherwise gas and you should be fine pending there is no leaks. Seals tend to dry out and crack when sitting.

So top it off, if it's not flex thus not using E85 I would add a bottle of Techron to the gas, then drive around the block a few times until everything is at operating temp then check for leaks.

 

[TechGuru]

PS. The filler neck is a anti-siphon design, you can't get a hose in it and there is no drain that I know of.

 

[Drewmcg]

PS. The filler neck is a anti-siphon design, you can't get a hose in it and there is no drain that I know of.

TechGuru is right; there's a screen at the base of the metal part of the fuel filler neck, so you cannot siphon out gas.

I resurrected a 2002 Explorer XLS that had sat in a woods for several years (4.0 SOHC V-6, Flex). Long story short, burning the old gas was not a problem.

I like the E85 idea (never tried that), b/c I think condensed water in you fuel system is a real concern. If your's is is not Flex Fuel, then go to auto parts store and buy a couple of bottles of gas drier (has alchohol in it) and dump that in the tank. This is not a carburated vehicle, so you don't have the gumming up concerns (floats, jets, etc.) that you'd have on an older-style engine. Fuel pressure is something like 60+ PSI if memory serves. I'd dump a bottle (maybe two) of Techtron in the tank and go for it--hoping that the Techron will keep any goofy gas from clogging an injector.

A lot of this is hard for us to advise properly from a distance. I had all kinds of mice problems with my truck (like I said, it was left outside in a wooded lot). Very different than a clean garage. Do you have firm brake pedal? How tolerant is your aunt (?) about you doing work where the truck is? Oil change is easy and harmless, though probably not critical, but a good idea. If it were me I'd put new conventional oil in there for a few hundred miles, and then change that out with full sythetic for better cleaning after that--especially on the 4.0 (gotta nurse those timing chains!).

DO follow the advice about priming the oil pressure before first start. If its a 4.0 SOHC engine and you can't find fuel pump relay, just pop off 4-wire connector to the coil pack (sits right on front, top of engine). I'd spend several minutes turning it over (fresh battery, maybe even with charger hooked up), cranking it in 15-second intervals with at least 30-45 second rests in between. You really want to distribute the oil and build pressure in the timing chain tensioners before first start.

Good idea to drive around the neighborhood a few times before committing to the long trip home. Don't forget to change the fuel filter (tricky) once you've run the old gas out of there and maybe run a tank of fresh gas through, and can get it somewhere you can work on it in peace. Congratulations!

 

[Turdle]

You disconnect the fuel supply line under the hood. Now a cut garden hose should fit tightly over the fuel outlet on the disconnected line.
Run the other end of the hose to a large fuel can. You might need a few of them.
With a jumper wire you can jump 12v to the fuel pump drive socket in the relay housing. This will pump the fuel into the gas can.


If the gas looks like gas it might be good. If it looks like mountain dew soda-it's gone. You might be able to use it a few gallons at a time into a full tank.

edit. definitely drain the oil. watch carefully, does water come out first?
I would not worry so much about the coolant until you get home, other than is it all there, and will the truck hold it in when warm?
90 miles is a long way to drive with 4 year old everything that hasn't been used. You really should budget a flat tow-otherwise you might be hit with a combination of being stranded, city tow, impound fees and motel room. Not to mention some unforseen steering issue that could cause an accident.
Id feel more likely to win a lottery scratch ticket , then make it home trouble free with that truck. don't put yourself in an even worse situation.

 

[Mbrooks420]

I'd risk driving it home after a few hours work. Change the oil, puke out the old gas, fill it with regular, and a bottle of fuel cleaner, and get whatever battery fits your budget. I'd drive it locally, first, and put at least 30-40 miles on it. Give it a good second look, and make sure you aren't leaking anything, and take the plunge. Is the current garage heated?

 

[imp]

Tell you guys what. We just started a brand-new 5.0 that was bought from Ford Motorsports in 1967. It has sat all this time, 20 years. Had original oil fill from Ford, oil filter, complete engine minus starter, MassAir, etc. Opinions ran from "You MUST remove the heads, check the cylinders for rust, valves rusted, etc.", to, "Turn crank over by hand, if no binding, start her up".

We opted for the "try her out". Started up, ran fine, a bit of smoke from the oil I squirted into the cylinders years ago, then none. Idle smooth, no noise, oil pressure good, thermostat works, opened, no overheat, EVERYTHING NORMAL. So much for opinions.

The other one: '72 Ranchero, standing out front 5 years, several gallons of gas in tank. Lacquer? That's bullshit. We started it, took a bit of starting fluid, and it RUNS FINE on that lacquer. We were quite frankly amazed.

Cooler weather, I will try starting my '98 F-700, w/429 Industrial eng., EFI, has stood since 2012. imp