Please excuse the long-winded first post, but I am stuck with a non-functioning vehicle in a library parking lot.
2006 4.0 V6 Eddie Bauer edition with 128K on the odometer, my fiance got it in 08 with 24K. Went through 3 radiators from 2010-11, and while I was overseas last year it died on her - heads warped. Sat for 7 months while she waited for a shadetree mechanic to fix it. I got back to the states a couple months ago and he finished up the repairs, but it had a rough idle and poor acceleration. He said it was old gas. We ran a tankful through, changed the fuel filter, and did an oil change at 1500 miles post-repair, almost no change in engine performance.
Yesterday, took it to O'Reilly for a code read, the worker said it was a cylinder 1 injector issue. Disconnected the battery to get fresh codes and went to Advanced just to double check. Their code reader gave lean on bank 1 and open circuit on injector 1. To double check, pulled plug wire and injector plug, no change in idle when pulling cylinder 1, small change in idle when pulling plug wires for 2 & 3, significant worsening of idle when pulling plug wires on 4 & 5 (removed only one at a time). Used multimeter to check resistance on injector 1, read ~14 ohms. Checked injector 4, also ~14 ohms.
Drove the vehicle some more, decided to check the plug to injector 1 (and was going to check the injector itself with a 9V battery after). Today, with engine off, first used the multimeter to check resistance between the two contacts at the connector, 22 ohms. Set multimeter to check continuity, then used jumper lead from one connector to a test light, from test light to multimeter, to second connector. Tone from multi showed there was continuity. I did this just to make sure the small fork connector and extra test lead to the test light allowed a circuit. Removed multimeter, left the test lead plugged into one side of the connector with the test light laying by the hood latch. Tried to start the vehicle in this state with injector 1 unplugged, planned to touch test light to other side of connector once running. Engine turned over but would not start. Removed test light and attached connector back to injector. No start. Pressed inertia switch a few times. No start. Disconnected battery for a minute. No start. Checked 2 amp PCM fuse and 30 amp fuel injector fuse, do not appear burnt. Engine turns freely but no indication of ignition.
Please advise on what I could have burnt up with the multi/test light or what to check next.
May also have an intake gasket leak to bank 1 and oil getting into at least cylinder 1 (pulled spark plug, was black and smelled of burnt oil)
2006 4.0 V6 Eddie Bauer edition with 128K on the odometer, my fiance got it in 08 with 24K. Went through 3 radiators from 2010-11, and while I was overseas last year it died on her - heads warped. Sat for 7 months while she waited for a shadetree mechanic to fix it. I got back to the states a couple months ago and he finished up the repairs, but it had a rough idle and poor acceleration. He said it was old gas. We ran a tankful through, changed the fuel filter, and did an oil change at 1500 miles post-repair, almost no change in engine performance.
Yesterday, took it to O'Reilly for a code read, the worker said it was a cylinder 1 injector issue. Disconnected the battery to get fresh codes and went to Advanced just to double check. Their code reader gave lean on bank 1 and open circuit on injector 1. To double check, pulled plug wire and injector plug, no change in idle when pulling cylinder 1, small change in idle when pulling plug wires for 2 & 3, significant worsening of idle when pulling plug wires on 4 & 5 (removed only one at a time). Used multimeter to check resistance on injector 1, read ~14 ohms. Checked injector 4, also ~14 ohms.
Drove the vehicle some more, decided to check the plug to injector 1 (and was going to check the injector itself with a 9V battery after). Today, with engine off, first used the multimeter to check resistance between the two contacts at the connector, 22 ohms. Set multimeter to check continuity, then used jumper lead from one connector to a test light, from test light to multimeter, to second connector. Tone from multi showed there was continuity. I did this just to make sure the small fork connector and extra test lead to the test light allowed a circuit. Removed multimeter, left the test lead plugged into one side of the connector with the test light laying by the hood latch. Tried to start the vehicle in this state with injector 1 unplugged, planned to touch test light to other side of connector once running. Engine turned over but would not start. Removed test light and attached connector back to injector. No start. Pressed inertia switch a few times. No start. Disconnected battery for a minute. No start. Checked 2 amp PCM fuse and 30 amp fuel injector fuse, do not appear burnt. Engine turns freely but no indication of ignition.
Please advise on what I could have burnt up with the multi/test light or what to check next.
May also have an intake gasket leak to bank 1 and oil getting into at least cylinder 1 (pulled spark plug, was black and smelled of burnt oil)
