2006 Explorer Stereo Question

[sona]

I have a 2006 Explorer 4.0 Eddie Bauer with Satellite Radio. The original stereo display got damaged. I have an iSimple interface for my iphone to play through the factory radio, so I wanted to avoid getting an aftermarket unit. I opted to get another factory radio to replace my original.

I pulled this one from a 2008 Explorer at the Junkyard.

My original unit from my 2006 was:

7L2T-18C869-AC

The one I pulled from the 2008 is a:

8L2T-18C869-AG

The issue i'm having is that the new unit seems to work ok for a little while, and then resets itself. It worked great with CDs, Ipod interface, and satellite radio for the 1st day or two.

Now it's resetting more frequently.

I recorded a video of what it's doing.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="" frameborder="0" gesture="media" allow="encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

As you can see it starts to do a check of all the speakers (LF, LR, RF, RR) when it resets, or will just start making button selections on its own. It's weird because it seems like it's shorting out, but the when it resets, the clock is not affected, and all the presets save. I've tried it both with the factory harness and with the ipod interface harness installed - doesn't seem to make a difference.

So I've ruled out wiring as an issue.

My question is:

Is there some kind of marrying / divorcing procedure I need to follow?

Are these two units interchangeable?

I assumed they would be based on the research I've done as most of the newer units tend to be backwards compatible with older explorers.

The information only went through 2007 however, not up to 2008.

Thanks in advance for any info.

 

[MotorCityFats13]

there are other threads on here that people mentioned different units needing to be programed by a 3rd party radio shop but on alot of the electronics on these can-bus systems the part numbers have to match with in a range of production years..... (2006-2007) (2008) (2009-2010) or the parts cant communicate with the other systems..... radios sound quite simple and should not have these issues "they are not instrument clusters" I suspect if anything it might be fighting with the "rap" retained accessory power circuit.... if you know what wire is the main power "keyed" cut it and run a jumper directly to the battery and see if the problem remains

 

[sona]

Thanks for the response - I did a little research on this before hand, but I didn't think that compatibility would be a problem since most of the units I looked at were "backwards compatible" with all of the other models designated for Explorers. I figured the different model numbers were designed to add features like Sync and adding them to my car would just have that part not be functional.

Good point on the RAP. I didn't know what that was until now. I'll try running 12 volts straight from somewhere else.

Would I get the same effect if I just pulled the fuse for the RAP?

I've also considered that this may be loose wire within the connector itself. With the harness for the ipod periphery, stuff gets pretty smushed behind the radio. I could see wires getting damaged back there. The thing that has me stumped is the fact that radio retains memory - If it's losing its power source, from a short, or the rap is fighting with it's power, wouldn't I lose my clock and presets?

But its also taking in button inputs that i'm not pushing which says - not power supply related.

Is the RAP what recognizes the stereo?

What could I do to trick my car into thinking this is the correct stereo?

 

[MotorCityFats13]

example.... when you hook up an aftermarket head unit the power hooks to the power but it cant see the data connection so when you turn the key off the radio goes off.... i think with the can-bus it sends a data signal telling the radio to stay on for 10 mins or until door is opened this may be accomplished by piggy backing the "yellow wire" constant power which holds presets and clock, when I hooked up my pioneer HU I had to tap into a non data power source to keep the rap function "power windows was my choice" since these can-buss systems did not have the "rap" relay like some previous ford cars/trucks, now on the 2004 I needed to do nothing special because its "rap" features just worked..... so to my knowledge and research trying to retain the rap featured the only way to keep it was to either tap in or buy the pac audio $70 box so there was no relays or fuse that controlled rap since its data buss and pcm controlled.... if your data buss is not working properly with this radio then it could press ghost buttons and flake out like you explained.... alot of what you wrote in the original post sounds a lot like what happens when people tried putting 2010 nav units in to 06-08 explorers

other thing is maybe the head unit you bought was slightly water damaged by moisture and it took a few days to short out.... its hard to pick out radios from junkyards because you either dont know the condition of why it was junked or a door was left open or window and it rained

yards from my area dont usually get cars/truck that new and ive only found 2x 4th gen explorers and both were 2006 and major body damage and the prices they charge for a stock HU totally does justify the purchase of a nice 7" video unit that comes with 300 more sound options than most people will ever use

so take the radio out and while its on shake it around move the wires and see if something you do physically can make the problem worse, I would think the rap function only activates when key is on and engine is off so try trouble shooting the wires in both situations

 

[sona]

I ran power directly from battery and it seems to be working fine now.

So what's the best spot for me to tap into in the dash?

You said you did window switch?

There's a system that will retain RAP for Aftermarket radios.. Is this an option for me to install?

Say I run 12 volts from some other source and run it through the periphery that retains RAP. Is that possible?

 

[MotorCityFats13]

here is my thread on my rap mod... post #7 shows where the power windows can be tapped into
as long as you send it a data free connection "which the windows are" you will keep RAP and power the radio just like intended

Retained Accessory Power

 

[sona]

OH, I follow you now. That make's a lot of sense. Thanks so much for your input and quick responses.

By doing this, I'm going to lose my steering wheel control function, right?

 

[MotorCityFats13]

you shouldn't its still a stock radio and I would think those controls are wired and not can-buss