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2006 XLT Transmission "Bump"

Be sure to reply with the fix.
Of course. I dug out an ELM327 dongle this weekend and put "Car Scanner" app on my iPad. On the way to work it showed 3 misfires, and that route is pretty flat. It didn't identify which cylinder(s) were misfiring though.
 



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I second the ignition coil idea. You can really feel the stuttering when cruising with torque converter locked up
 






I second the ignition coil idea.
Just waiting for my new coils. Of course I put the dongle on, and drove around the Back Loop which is "hilly" and couldn't replicate it. But tomorrow is another day. Oh, and upgraded from the free Car Scanner app to the full paid app, so I can use all the sensors.
 






Get it up to highway speed, cruise gently at light throttle so it gets into top gear and converter lockup. Then add just a bit of throttle to give it some load but not enough to cause downshift or unlocking of converter. If you have a misfiring coil, this will likely reveal it.
 






If you have a misfiring coil, this will likely reveal it.
I got my coils in today for the right (pass) bank and replaced those 4. Took it out for a long drive and "was" able to get it to replicate, but only on the steeper hills at about 45mph constant (no acceleration up the hill). Using Car Scanner Pro on my iPad, when the issue did repeat, immediately the misfire count went up. But CSP can't tell me which coil/plug was misfiring, and also I did not replace the plugs, just the coils. At least that tells me it is engine and not transmission, and that the issue is coils/plugs. Or EGR?
 






I got my coils in today for the right (pass) bank and replaced those 4. Took it out for a long drive and "was" able to get it to replicate, but only on the steeper hills at about 45mph constant (no acceleration up the hill). Using Car Scanner Pro on my iPad, when the issue did repeat, immediately the misfire count went up. But CSP can't tell me which coil/plug was misfiring, and also I did not replace the plugs, just the coils. At least that tells me it is engine and not transmission, and that the issue is coils/plugs. Or EGR?
Using non-OEM coils can be problematic. Many aren't made well or last long and even when new can cause RF interference. The coils are one item where buying OEM is worth the extra cost, IMO. Since you did see an improvement with the new coils, and the miscount fire coinciding with the transmission behavior, it might be worth trying OEM coils. Maybe buy a couple of them initially and rotate them through the four cylinders to see if a certain configuration eliminates the issue or improves it further.
 






Using non-OEM coils can be problematic. Many aren't made well or last long and even when new can cause RF interference. The coils are one item where buying OEM is worth the extra cost, IMO. Since you did see an improvement with the new coils, and the miscount fire coinciding with the transmission behavior, it might be worth trying OEM coils. Maybe buy a couple of them initially and rotate them through the four cylinders to see if a certain configuration eliminates the issue or improves it further.
Well, forgot to mention that fuel economy improved on both the dash "AVG FUEL CONSUMPTION" meter and on the CarScannerPro instantaneous average fuel consumption readout. Nothing dramatic, but just over 1mpg and I know this because I've been trending/watching it for years.

Does anybody know of a better iPad app that will get the ELM327 dongle to report which cylinder is misfiring?
 






Check out this video.
 






Using non-OEM coils can be problematic. Many aren't made well or last long and even when new can cause RF interference.
I did a bunch of reading and the Delphi brand is well known and respected, and not just some offshore cheapie. Delphi is OEM for many vehicles out there, likewise NGK or Bosch. I'm sure they are quite a bit of quality kit.
 






I did a bunch of reading and the Delphi brand is well known and respected, and not just some offshore cheapie. Delphi is OEM for many vehicles out there, likewise NGK or Bosch. I'm sure they are quite a bit of quality kit.
The reason I made the comment is because the new coils appears to have lessened the issue you are having. The use of OEM coils to solve these types of problems eliminate them completely. Logic can dictate the coils you used might not be quite as good as OEM and this is why the problem was not completely eliminated after they were installed. Or maybe there is another problem adding to the symptom.
 






Use only OEM
Especially for engine compartment and drivability related issues

Delphi make oem parts for cars and also make chinese aftermarket junk

It is all about QC and exact manufacturer specs (its very important when talking about RF coils protection)

Same story with Acdelco.they make high qualilty GM OEM parts and totally crap aftermarket

For professional diagnostics you better use cable-based adapter

Wireless adapters too slow for HSCAN reading

This wireless adapters can read only several simple HSCAN DTC thru HS-MS SJB gate
 






The reason I made the comment is because the new coils appears to have lessened the issue you are having. The use of OEM coils to solve these types of problems eliminate them completely. Logic can dictate the coils you used might not be quite as good as OEM and this is why the problem was not completely eliminated after they were installed. Or maybe there is another problem adding to the symptom.
Gotcha, thanks for the clarification. Am going to order 4 more COP ignition coils, and am thinking I should use the Delphi on the FWD cylinders of both banks, away from the cable that runs to the EGR and use either Motorcraft or NGK on the REAR two cylinders of each bank. AM trying to decide if I should also replace the spark plugs, as the Ford authorized repair shop did them maybe 6-7 years ago and swore they put nickel anti-seize on them to make getting them out easier again. Champion 7989's?
 






Gotcha, thanks for the clarification. Am going to order 4 more COP ignition coils, and am thinking I should use the Delphi on the FWD cylinders of both banks, away from the cable that runs to the EGR and use either Motorcraft or NGK on the REAR two cylinders of each bank. AM trying to decide if I should also replace the spark plugs, as the Ford authorized repair shop did them maybe 6-7 years ago and swore they put nickel anti-seize on them to make getting them out easier again. Champion 7989's?
I strongly recommend going with OEM coils. It is the only way to definitely eliminate, or confirm, them as a cause of your problem. Are you old coils OEM or an off brand? I don't see how spark lugs are going to cause the RF interference that effects the transmission communication cable. Changing them does no harm and takes one more thing off the table.
 






Are you old coils OEM or an off brand?
The old coils appear to be Motorcraft, as they have the funky Ford-style cryptic part numbers on the tops. I was thinking since the spark plugs are old, it might be time to upgrade them and basically give the engine a tune-up, new coils and plugs. Is that Champion part# the preferred model for these V-8's?
 






Be sure to reply with the fix.
Will do. Second set of (this time) 4 Motorcraft COP's are enroute to me. Found another fun video regarding this issue too:
 






I have Ford Explorer 2010 XLT 4L V6.

Q1, When transmission changes to 1st to 2nd and 3rd to 2nd I can feel it very hard hit with a noise. what should I to do fix it?

Q2. When I change the gear N to D, I do not feel the engagement of the gear. but if I stop at the D position and drive, it will go forward but when it changes to 2nd gear, the vehicle does not move forward. Just like N gear, rmp will go high but not moving.
 






Well still waiting on my other set of ignition coils. But in the meantime, Car Scanner on my iPad says xx# of misfires during a drive, but a Forscan Mode 6 OBDII test when I get home says "0 misfires last 10 drive cycles" on all 8 cylinders. What's up and who to believe?
 






When you get your new coils in get you a couple cans of electronic cleaner. Clean every plug from harness to coils. use some dielectric grease on the boots where they meet the porcelin of the plug use a qtip or something it does not conduct electricity so try and keep it off the top of plug itself as best you can. Try that. I did all 8 plugs coils on a 07 Chevy this week for a friend and when i cranked the truck up the miss was still there just here and there, i did exactly what i just explained and its been running great 4 days now. Least he hasnt said its come back. You can also do it to the plugs for the computer as well. They can get dirty all the same as anything else and one little voltage issue throws things off even if you dont see a hard code for what it is. I also agree with another post i saw if its the common tranny shudder its pretty darn obvious when it does it, my 96 felt like rail road tracks. But i was able to fix that with some stuff i found called shudder fix from car doctor i believe was the company.
 






Finally got my other ignition coils in, all Motorcraft parts. Priority Mail 2-3 day shipping ..... try 2-1/2 weeks to Alaska. Anyway, installed the Motorocraft coils in the rear 4 cylinders, and moved the Delphi new coils to the front two cylinders on each bank. An odd discovery is that on the driver side, all the old coils were Motorcraft except this odd grey-boot generic coil (no name, no p/n, nothing marked) which was on the rear-most cylinder on driver's side bank, cylinder #8.

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Have not been able to run a FORSCAN check yet, but engine fired up nicely.
 



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Good deal!!!
 






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