Paul Fithian
Elite Explorer
- Joined
- October 12, 2016
- Messages
- 336
- Reaction score
- 106
- City, State
- Long Beach, IN
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2007 Job 1 RWD V8 Limited
Like many others, I had 1 broken stud on Cylinder 4 and 2 broken studs on Cylinder 8. Cylinder 4 stud came out easily with an extractor, studs on Cylinder 8 had to be drilled out to 21/64" and tapped to receive an M8x1.25 HELICOIL.
- Bolts instead of studs/nuts are an option, consider Mcmaster-Carr 90386A109 Serrated Flange Hex Head. I used these on the passenger side (except cylinder 1 top). After installation, I ran through 2 heat/cool cycles and retorqued everything. All nuts on the studs moved a bit when retorqued. None of the bolts moved when retorqued. Stainless studs/nuts were used on the driver side and passenger side cylinder 1 top.
- Consider replacing the entire power steering system at this time, it may be needed if old, leaking, or has play. It opens up a lot of access to the manifold bolts, many of the parts you need to remove for the steering job are common to the exhaust manifold. I wished I had done that, as I replaced the complete power steering system a few weeks before installing new manifolds.
- It is not necessary to lower the exhaust piping
- Remove/move aside as much as you can, especially air filter box and battery/tray
- Cut off the stud protruding from the A/C line connection to the compressor, it enables socket access to cylinder 1 lower exhaust nut/stud/bolt. This was easily done with a right angle die grinder and cut off wheel
- Take off the heat shields before installing the manifolds, they block access to the mounting holes/studs/bolts. They are easily mounted once the manifolds are installed
- When installing manifolds, install a lower stud on cylinders 1 and 5, use them to hang the gasket and manifold at the front. Rotate the manifold down into position and on the exhaust piping flange, then install the rest of the studs/bolts
I was able to do this successfully without raising the engine or drilling through the shock tower
Reference videos:
- Bolts instead of studs/nuts are an option, consider Mcmaster-Carr 90386A109 Serrated Flange Hex Head. I used these on the passenger side (except cylinder 1 top). After installation, I ran through 2 heat/cool cycles and retorqued everything. All nuts on the studs moved a bit when retorqued. None of the bolts moved when retorqued. Stainless studs/nuts were used on the driver side and passenger side cylinder 1 top.
- Consider replacing the entire power steering system at this time, it may be needed if old, leaking, or has play. It opens up a lot of access to the manifold bolts, many of the parts you need to remove for the steering job are common to the exhaust manifold. I wished I had done that, as I replaced the complete power steering system a few weeks before installing new manifolds.
- It is not necessary to lower the exhaust piping
- Remove/move aside as much as you can, especially air filter box and battery/tray
- Cut off the stud protruding from the A/C line connection to the compressor, it enables socket access to cylinder 1 lower exhaust nut/stud/bolt. This was easily done with a right angle die grinder and cut off wheel
- Take off the heat shields before installing the manifolds, they block access to the mounting holes/studs/bolts. They are easily mounted once the manifolds are installed
- When installing manifolds, install a lower stud on cylinders 1 and 5, use them to hang the gasket and manifold at the front. Rotate the manifold down into position and on the exhaust piping flange, then install the rest of the studs/bolts
I was able to do this successfully without raising the engine or drilling through the shock tower
Reference videos:
