Solved Another thread about exhaust manifolds replacement on 4.6 v8.

[Tike]

I was able to remove the nuts on the motor mount and lift the motor enough to pull the manifold out from the top.

how did your motor mounts look? i have a 2010 too. just curious

 

[ROD1495]

how did your motor mounts look? i have a 2010 too. just curious

Explorer_PL has a great picture of the motor mounts. I read (Rock Auto) that you should replace the motor mount when you replace the manifolds. I was able to loosen the top motor mounts, but after looking and investigating further, it looks like you have to pretty much remove the front differential and sway bars off to get at the nuts that hold it. From what I can see, mine are fine, so I am going to "Let sleeping Dogs Lie"
From what I can see, it looks fine- still has paint on it and I don't see anything bad. Mine is a 2010 with 75,000 miles, so I am thinking/hoping they are fine.
FYI- Ford dealer said he would do it for $2,700- Said it was a deal, the price should be $4,000!

 

[Explorer_PL]

To replace one of the motor mounts, you need to drop the diff and the sway bar. Not a big deal really, the diff is just 3 15mm bolts.
I replaced mine when I pulled the engine out and at 200k one of the mounts was separated but I felt no difference because of that.
And by mounts I mean the lower mounts that bolt to the frame, not the brackets attached to the block.

 

[Tike]

i have 150,000Mi as of this week. but someone T-boned me last week so trucks in the shop for bit. was honestly just curious. but $4,000

 

[Explorer_PL]

What was the 4000 price for ?
Manifolds ?

 

[Tike]

my dealer quoted me around 1300 for manifolds and exhaust shield .... not counting broken studs (extra)... which i already ,now there are. have had the tick for a year. i let the engine warm up for 5 minutes / until the tick goes away before i drive.

 

[ROD1495]

Both manifolds. Clearly they did not want to do it. They were going to take the engine out and replace both manifolds. They said that even though the driver's side isn't bad yet, it will be soon. The passenger side has both studs broken in the head on the front cylinder and they said that removing the engine allows them to drill out and remove the broken studs. I am sure that they are right, and it makes sense to do the driver's side once you have the engine out but they really just did not want to do it. I thought I had a pretty good relationship with the service guy, I have been taking my Explorers to him since I bought my 2002 Explorer there new.

By the way, Explorer_PL -thanks so much for your detailed description and pictures! It was very helpful to see your picture of the motor mounts. I was able to jack up that side of the engine and pull the old manifold out the top. I still have to get the broken studs out, and I am trying to figure out a way to get a drill in there. My DeWalt Right angle drill is too big. I bought the Lisle 68500 Manifold Drill Template for Ford 2V & 3V for drilling out the studs, but I fear that it takes up too much room and I won't be able to use it on the bottom stud.

Did you remove the A/C condenser to make enough room to get at the bottom broken stud?

Thanks again!

 

[Explorer_PL]

Thanks, I am glad my pictures helped someone
No, I did not disconnect any cooling, heating hoses, or AC lines.
I recall I butchered on of the holes to the point I was afraid of getting into the water jacket.
Pulling the engine makes it a lot easier, just not sure if it's cost effective.
If I had the engine out, instead of drilling, I'd weld a nut to the broken stud.

 

[Tike]

Both manifolds. Clearly they did not want to do it. They were going to take the engine out and replace both manifolds. They said that even though the driver's side isn't bad yet, it will be soon. The passenger side has both studs broken in the head on the front cylinder and they said that removing the engine allows them to drill out and remove the broken studs. I am sure that they are right, and it makes sense to do the driver's side once you have the engine out but they really just did not want to do it. I thought I had a pretty good relationship with the service guy, I have been taking my Explorers to him since I bought my 2002 Explorer there new.

By the way, Explorer_PL -thanks so much for your detailed description and pictures! It was very helpful to see your picture of the motor mounts. I was able to jack up that side of the engine and pull the old manifold out the top. I still have to get the broken studs out, and I am trying to figure out a way to get a drill in there. My DeWalt Right angle drill is too big. I bought the Lisle 68500 Manifold Drill Template for Ford 2V & 3V for drilling out the studs, but I fear that it takes up too much room and I won't be able to use it on the bottom stud.

Did you remove the A/C condenser to make enough room to get at the bottom broken stud?

Thanks again!

this guy is really knowledgeable on those Triton engines. he has other videos i would look at but heres a quick link to his channel.

 

[ROD1495]

this guy is really knowledgeable on those Triton engines. he has other videos i would look at but heres a quick link to his channel.

Yes, I have watched his videos, he is terrific! On his video, he mentions dropping the A/C compressor to get better access, and he has the equipment to evacuate the system. I am hoping that I can just take the drive belt off and drop the compressor so it is out of the way so that I can get the drill in there.
Not sure that I have the skill required to do the weld a bolt on trick.

 

[Explorer_PL]

Just word of caution. When I pulled my old v8, I could not get the AC compressor and power steering pump off the block. The long studs those 2 [pieces are bolted on seized inside the compressor and pump sleeves. It took some heat and banging to get them free. Hope you don't have that problem.

 

[ROD1495]

Just word of caution. When I pulled my old v8, I could not get the AC compressor and power steering pump off the block. The long studs those 2 [pieces are bolted on seized inside the compressor and pump sleeves. It took some heat and banging to get them free. Hope you don't have that problem.

Thanks! I am still trying to get the compressor off. I have the belt off, and I can see 2 bolts on the front side. I have loosened them, but the compressor is not budging. In the Hayes manual, it sounds like they say the bolts are on the bottom. Any thoughts?