I would be willing to pay that price only if it checks out exceptionally well. This means real good tires, no time spent in the rustbelt, a clean Carfax, really good maintenance history that details the repairs/maintenance done, interior/exterior in very good condition, no engine noises and no issues found after thoroughly crawling in, around and under it looking for problems. If you do all the labor for your repairs then taking a risk is less risky for you than someone who pays a mechanic.
To compare, I bought my 2010 Mountaineer Premier loaded with every option, in very good condition inside and out, spent its life outside the rustbelt, had two owners, some maintenance history, no collision damage/salvage title etc. indicated on a Carfax report, all options worked as new but knowing it had a slow leaking radiator and worn tires. I got it for $6,300 out the door. I spent another $2k for tires, radiator/water pump replacement (did the pump as a preventative measure), changed differential, transmission, transfer case fluids for a grand total of $8,300 into it. But this got me a 4th gen that was as close to flawless with 100k miles on it as I could get.
So for me, I would say $7,500-$8,000 is about as high as I would go for a purchase price which would include any repairs you know you might need to do. IMO, a $10k price would command it be a vehicle in exceptional condition with an exceptional maintenance record (that included fluid changes) that saw no time living in the rustbelt.